MartyNZ

Oh, maybe I'm wrong. Does your reflector now look different than the picture in post #69? Both post #69 & 92 photos look a bit like my reflector, and I don't see anything of concern. Is there any damage to the reflector finish on the forward side?

Docc, this sounds like a solution in search of a problem. A problem that you don't have. LED lamps put out less heat than the original incandescent bulbs, so the chance of heat damage is low. If you add louvers to your shell, then the only outcome is to allow dust and moisture into a place that is normally clean and dry.Better that you worry about all the little furry critters you will blind while riding at night.

You are correct that the boiling point goes up with increasing pressure. The volatile compounds in your fuel will boil at 40°C (ish) in your tank at atmospheric pressure. The boiling (vapour lock) temperature is lower in the induction side of the pump, between the screen and the pump, and higher on the pressure side, so you have insulated the right part of the fuel system. Fuel will boil when its vapor pressure exceeds atmospheric pressure. Boiling temperatures increase with increased pressure, and decreases with decreased pressure. The different hydrocarbons in your fuel have boiling points ranging from as low -10 to over 200°C. The boiling point of your fuel will vary from season to season, the temperature, and the pressure drop in the fuel sustem. I imagine that a partially blocked fuel intake screen might make the pressure drop greater, and tendency to vapour lock worse.

Ha, that's because your bike is lying on its side.

The workshop manual says: The regulator has been calibrated in order to maintain the battery voltage at a value between 14-14.6 Volts. V11 Alternator Regulator.pdf

Hmm, 183 MPH, the bikes in neutral, rpm zero, and you took a photo. My guess is that you were coasting down a vertical cliff, riding one handed, while you took that picture. Awesome!

I don't know. That is where mine is, not perfect, but doesn't stall like yours does. See post #45 for previously mentioned thread 17560. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17560

From what you describe, it seems like there might be several problems. Once you have retorqued the heads and reset the valve clearances, it will be a little better. Then comes fuel heating. Vapour lock explains your symptoms. Perhaps the area under the tank is acting as a little heat trap. Normally there is insulating panels on the lower surfaces of the tank to limit engine heat reaching the fuel inside. This tells us that it gets hot under there. If you try moving the pump away from this area, back to its original location, or above the oil cooler, then it may be better. Insulating the low pressure fuel hose and the pump is still useful. I see that you have pod filters. What have you done with the temp sensor that was in the air box? It is important, and so is its location. See previous posts here: http://www.v11lemans...e=1?do=findComment&comment=218202 and http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19764&hl= The ECU cannot set the mixture correctly if the air inlet temp sensor is missing or located in a bad place.

A few suggestions: The backfiring then dying might be related to 1/ Valve clearances, 2/ Induction Rubber Sleeves, 3/ Ignition coil or ignition lead faults. 1/ a sputter, cough problem when very hot can be caused by too small valve clearances holding the valves open. After a run the engine is hot, but when you stop, with the engine idling, the temperature continues to rise because air cooling is limited without forward speed. This is often overlooked. Valve clearances set too loose is better than too tight. See http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19610 for valve clearance setting advice. 2/ The engine is very sensitive to air leaks in those short rubber sleeves between the cylinder heads and the throttle bodies. Cracks so small you can barely see them can let in air, though this affects low rpm the worst. Air leaks may be worse when the engine is hot. Just a guess on this one. 3/ Corrosion at the ignition lead connection to the coil can affect the engine at higher engine loads. Look for cracks in the ignition coils. Cracks can cause problems as temperatures increase. If the coil/leads/plugs are dirty, then a tiny amount of rain or mist can make the dirt conductive, so the high voltage shorts to ground instead of through the spark plug. Feel for a cool cylinder to identify which side has the problem. See also http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12326&page=7&do=findComment&comment=151210 Gio also made a good suggestion on post # 12 of this thread. Fuel vapour lock is a problem if you have an external fuel pump. On my bike, when I tried to restart after a fuel stop, the engine backfired and popped one throttle body out of the rubber sleeve. Look for fuel hoses touching the cylinder head, and think about fitting insulating sleeves or reflecting foil to the fuel pump and inlet hose. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17560 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17999

The thinner air at high altitude affects piston engine power a lot if it doesn't have a turbocharger or supercharger fitted. For example, a light aircraft piston engine full throttle power rating is:- Sea level -100 hp. - 5,000 ft - 84.6 hp. - 10,000 ft - 74.8 hp. A motorcycle will have the same loss of power as altitude increases, so if you think that your bike feels like it only has 3/4 throttle at 9,000 ft, then your butt dyno must be well calibrated. The 15M ECU has an air pressure sensor, (under that little black vent on top) but Meinolf has improved the barometric correction tables for the 15M ECU in his .bin maps he has shared around, so the automatic leaning needed as altitude increases is closer to ideal. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19815&do=findComment&comment=217735 If you try one of his maps, you may find the decel pops in the exhaust lessen, but still the laws of physics do not allow you to get sea level power at altitude unless you fit a blower. I don't believe that valve clearances will have any effect on the loss of mass airflow that is caused by low air pressure at high altitude. That example is for an old Lycoming O-235 variant. I asked a pilot about this, and he took me seriously. He wrote: "Density ratio at 9,000ft is 0.7621 so a bike down to about ¾ power is about right for normally aspirated engines. The Cessna 172RG Cutlass (180 BHP @ 2,700 RPM MSL) can make 77% BHP at 8,000 ft at 22” MAP and 2,700 RPM, and 70% BHP at 10,000 ft at 20” MAP and 2,700 RPM. Manifold pressure lapse rate in lower layers is about 1” per 1,000 ft on a standard day. Induction interference causes max MAP ISA MSL to be just over 28’’ Hg." So, yeah. That should make it clear.

Meinolf said some stuff that may help you develop your map: "The CO trim multiplier in the BIN can range from 0-200%. At 100% a CO trim value of 1 corresponds to a injector pulse width change of 4.76μs". "So many factors influence the actual opening time of an injector, a value in the fuel map is but a starting point. It goes like: ((Fuel Map value x Fuel map value factor) + (CO trim value x CO trim value factor)) x trim factorairtemp x trim factorenginetemp x trim factorairpressure x trimfactorbatteryvoltage x trim factorn = injection time". "CO trim was the only method of changing the injection time prior to the development of Beard's GuzziDiag suite. With the capabilities now available CO trim is obsolete". I hope that helps you develop your map without being too frivolous. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19652&p=214734

It looks like a Valeo starter. See repair/overhaul advice here: http://www.largiader.com/tech/valeo/ https://www.google.co.nz/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.guzziproject.nl/Manuals/VALEO%2520STARTER%2520OVERHALL.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwjd7rnb1pTUAhXEWbwKHRCDBikQFggiMAM&usg=AFQjCNE0PykoNkZx3p-k_SvjiwYL2hwlLA http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/boschvaleostarter.htm http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/valeo-starter-refresh.954653/

Do you mean this?: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18532&p=209449

You can get an idea of how much you need to change your fuel map by playing with the fuel trim. I have seen +45 on one ECU. It is a crude adjustment as it adds fuel everywhere, but is quicker to play with than remapping. You should experiment with +5, +10, +15, etc until the guy behind you complains about stinky exhaust. The value of the trim is not included in the .BIN file, so if you increase injector duration in a map, then you will need to reduce the trim back to zero as you load the map. Of course fitting a wideband sensor and data logging is the only way you can find out what fuelling you really need at every condition. Then comes the interrelated ignition timing adjustment. Then you change something like a crossover or intake filter configuration. Then you start over...

A white LED will appear red inside a red tailight lens, but it will be dim. Here's why. A red lens filters out all visible light except red. Only red can pass through, and the rest is absorbed. So all the light from a red LED passes through the lens with no loss, because it is only red emission. A white LED is most likely a blue LED with a phosphor on the surface which glows (sort of bluish) white. Then only some of this white light can pass through the lens. This assumes that the bluish white light has some red component to its spectrum. There is two losses in this. Blue to white, and white filtered, to leave only red. This means that a white LED will be dim compared to a red LED when viewed outside a red taillight lens. Swooshdave is right, it is best to avoid a white taillight LED. For the same reason, LED indicator lamps inside standard indicator lenses are best if their native colour is amber/orange/yellow, rather than white.

As Docc says, it looks like you have field magnets unglued and jamming the armature. That drive cog is throwing forward as it should, but it should also spin. Normally with no load, it should spin up so fast the armature commutator (where the brushes touch) can destroy itself, so only do that check momentarily. With the armature jammed, the current goes off the charts high, and cooks things inside. Again, momentary contact is enough to test it. Here is a link which deals with the magnet problem: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19296 And here is Cash1000's experience: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19676

Since GuzziDiag connects ok, that means that your computer has the right driver for the cable. You need to do the following steps in this order (applicable to IAW15XReader v0.67 on an old WinXP netbook, but may apply to newer computers). - Computer running, no programs open. - Bike ignition key off, kill switch in run position. - Connect the cable to the ECU and power it with 12v at the bike battery. - Plug USB to the computer. Give the computer a few seconds to recognize the connection. - Start IAW15XReader. Make sure a COM ident appears in the LH top field, if not fix this. - Click the "read" button and decide where to save the file. Give it a good name. It will create a file ending with .BIN. - You then get an instruction window. Press ok, then turn on ignition key. Listen to ensure that the pump doesn't run. Download will start. It takes about 15 minutes to download. Strangely it only takes only seconds to write a .BIN file to the ECU, and minutes to read/copy from the ECU. Keep this downloaded .BIN file somewhere safe. It is your reversion plan if things go badly.

You can expect 50,000 hours from a low power LED, and about 10,000 hours from a high power LED like a headlight. That should be enough...

Well yes, triple the light from a dim Phillips 55/60 watt halogen lamp. There are brighter halogen and xenon incandescent lamps about.

I actually measured my headlight lux output before & after using a phone app, not that accurate, but it gives a comparison. BTW lux is lumens per Sq metre, so lux is a more useful unit.

Overall I'm pleased with my LED headlamp. It is a 40 watt 3000 lumen 6000 K LED with no fan, just big copper braid loops that you can adjust so they nudge against the back of the headlight bucket on the inside. If I was to buy another, it would be brighter than 3000 lumen. Not enough to melt the road seal, but enough to stun possums. The color tint is slightly bluish, so if you like a yellow headlight, you should look for a lower number than 6000 k. The beam is a bit smudgy through a Bosch H4 LH traffic lens, maybe because I had to fettle the H4 lamp adapter to throw the low beam to the left instead of to the right. All the H4 LEDs I have found are made for RH traffic, so you won't have to do this. At the risk of buying outside the USA, you could look at www.aliexpress.com and search for "H4 LED copper". https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20170521101957&SearchText=h4+led+copper You will see several choices there. I have bought many things from them, but beware, shipping to NZ takes more than a month, quality is a gamble (I have binned about 30% of things from them), and you won't be helping Trump make 'Merica great again.

I bought a pack of 10 NTC thermistors, and only used one. I can mail you one if you can hook it up youself. Just PM me with a mailing address. 3 cents plus postage adds up to "you owe me a beer". The attachment says 3,000 kOhms. Depending on how you interpret the comma, it could mean 3000 kOhms = 3MOhms, or 3 point 000 kOhms. As Kiwi_Roy said, 3kOhms NTC measured at 25 degrees C is correct. PS, I still have have an airbox on my bike. I think that there was a good reason for MG to go to all that trouble, when pod filters would be cheaper and simpler to fit.

See DD's post here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19831&page=1&do=findComment&comment=218202And this:http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19764&hl=

Can you try running the engine with the RH pushrods removed? This may help you to know if the tapping sound is related to the cam/valve gear or piston/rings/bearings. It will need quite a bit of throttle with the LH cylinder doing all the work. You can't remove the RH spark plug during this test, as air noise is loud, and will drown out the sounds you are trying to trace.

Does this topic help? http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19627