MartyNZ

Some experts posted their experience here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19660 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19814 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19792 There is likely to be more good tips you could find if you use the search function Jaap built at the top of the page.

Yes, you can easily replace a seal with the shaft in place. If you search for "seal removal tool" you will see there are lots of tools that can help you. I use one like this to remove seals while the shaft is still in place: It is unlikely that you will remove the seal without damage to the seal, so you should try to have a replacement in your hand before you wreck the old one. Be careful not to scratch the shaft or seal housing as you pry it out. Have you seen this posting? http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19778

You have to wonder why the big manufacturers of diesel vehicles don't use this product, since it claims to offer "efficiency, durability, satisfaction, and increased performance". Perhaps the big guys like Cummins forgot to consider the need to keep out snake oil & lemming squeezings that might get into the fuel? Like you, I am intrested in things that are beneficial, but I'm not sure that this is any better than the OEM water separator & filter systems that come standard on diesel vehicles.

The Jackal workshop manual is available for download here: http://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_tonti_workshop_manuals___shop_manuals___service_manuals.html and FAQ here: http://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_tonti.html The manual mentions removing an "open washer".

I read "Total Control" written by Lee Parks. It is available as a kindle book, recommended by Scud. It has lots af good advice.

Simple Green will clean really well, but be careful. It is corrosive to aluminum if not diluted. This is why they make a different product specifically for aluminum alloys. Aircraft alloys do corrode easier than automotive alloys, but the difference is only a matter of degree. For your pistons, brief exposure at low temp, and washing it off well with hot water & detergent should avoid surface dulling and corrosion pits forming. Their data sheet http://simplegreen.com/gsa/data-sheets/ says it has alkaline pH 9. Simple Green's website says this: Aircraft — Is Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner safe for cleaning aircraft? Simple Green manufactures a product specifically designed for use on aircraft - Extreme Simple Green Aircraft & Precision Cleaner. This product was initially developed for use in the aircraft industry and extensive testing shows it to be safe for use on aluminum, plastics, rubber, and high tech alloys, in both normal and extreme temperatures and stress conditions. Extreme Simple Green passed a variety of aircraft industry tests. Testing has been performed by Scientific Materials International, Inc. and is available upon request. http://simplegreen.com/en-nz/household/faqs/ You don't need to take my word for it, a web search for "does simple green corrode aluminum" should say something similar.

For minor seal leaks, Chuck offered a good idea here:http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19654&hl=film

It is worthwhile to remove the loose & flaking carbon. You would only remove the rest if that makes you feel good. In service carbon builds up again quite quickly, then reaches equilibrium. So after a few hours it would look as though you had never been in there at all.

Gregory Bender has an excellent presentation here: http://www.thisoldtractor.com/projects_roy_smith_2013-03-19_install_the_left_piston_and_cylinder.html Yes, it is a roundfin engine, but the principle remains the same. The V11 workshop manual is less specific, just saying : The end parts of the compression rings must be fitted “out of step” with each other.

Last year Scud trialed one of these dipsticks (but with a white face) and wrote a rave review here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19319&page=7&do=findComment&comment=210026

The clips are so cheap, and the cost of a clip coming loose is so big, you should not skimp. A displaced pin can score the bore beyond repair. $5 x4 https://www.motointernational.com/store/product/GU90351038 As for piston rings, you are taking a risk of breaking one if you try to remove them. If it was me, I'd only remove them if I was planning to replace them. $60 ×2 https://www.motointernational.com/store/pistoncylinder-sets/92-mm-ring-set-per-side-for-1100s

Maybe if there was enough interest, DD's exhaust maker could make some more of the shark gill style.http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/uploads/post-2086-0-43965900-1473575938.jpg See his post here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19581&page=2&do=findComment&comment=213267

You could prove to yourself whether you need the oil return hose by putting the hose into a temporary collector bottle, then going for a fast run. (after blanking off the the sump fitting of course). A split in my old breather hose meant two drips of oil out the bottom of the clutch housing everywhere I stopped, and probably faster drip rate with the engine running. Even with the split, I think most oil vapor was still getting up into the spine, and then to either the airbox or the sump. I think that this probably means that the return oil flow is more than negligible, depending on many things like power setting, rpm, oil temp/quality/quantity, Roper plate installed, piston ring wear... If you try it, can you let us know what you find out?

Can you try forcing the shaft apart hydraulically by pumping grease into the spline lube nipple?

Hopefully now that Nero Corsa will run just as sweetly on frosty mornings as it will on hot afternoons. It looks like you found a good place to put the sensor. The cable does come with a satisfaction guarantee, so I can add 100mm to it if you think it needs to be longer. A little tie-wrap over the plug should stop it coming undone. I think I put one in that bag of bits with the cable.

Luhbo claims that the Marelli TPS is made by CTS. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8805#entry99551.. CTS claim to be a leading manufacturer of automotive sensors. I don't know any more than that. Kiwi Roy mentioned a Hall Effect TPS replacement, which is likely to be more durable, and tolerant of bad weather than a sliding resistor. Would it be more worthwhile to develop an EEPROM variant for a Hall sensor instead of a PF3C? http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19647&page=3&do=findComment&comment=217258

If CTS is the OEM for many of models of TPS, do you think they may help you with specs? http://www.ctscorp.com/products/sensors-2/throttle/ At the bottom of the page, there is a request technical information link.

See http://archive.guzzitech.com/HD-TPS-Jeff_B.htmlNone of the links work, but Jeff's email might still be good. Also http://mphcycles.com/the-pdf-mike-sent-that-i-dont-know-what-its-about-write-a-real-title/

Is this any help? Towards the end of post 276. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4152&page=19&do=findComment&comment=42022

Not something I did today, but something awesome Scud can do with his fleet of V11s.

Ha, Cow Space. http://www.visualware.co.jp/cowspace/guzzi.htm My Japanese is weak, so I opened the website in Google Chrome and it translated it for me.

If you only have a problem on the upshift, and not downshift, is it possible that the return limit eccentric adjuster needs adjusting? http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19547

I noticed that JBastida in Spain used this alternative spring on his bike in 2012. It looks like a good idea. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16930&page=2&do=findComment&comment=188386

Now you have me worried. My transmission output shaft has similar end float, but only if nudged with a screwdriver. I can't move it by hand with the driveshaft connected to the bevel box. I see that the workshop manual shows a shim and "half rests" at the forward end of the shaft, and specific dimensions for the shaft assembly including the bellville washer stack. Gearbox Ch N, Pg 18 refers. Perhaps the answer is in there?

Did you fit new o-rings on those two bobbins/connecting pipes which connect the oil cooler to the filter/regulator unit inside? This is in the sump spacer at the front of the engine. Those 4 O-rings probably don't feel much pressure till the engine gets hot, but any leak is bad.