MartyNZ

I hope your knee, elbow, and shoulder heal soon Gio. For bits that don't heal, Moto International Ltd in Seattle sold me Guzzi footrests for US$55 each, plus about US$7 for shipping to NZ. https://www.motointernational.com/store/footpegs-floorboards--parts/lh-footrest I'd recommend them.

Wait, what? I thought that beer was for me.

In this topic http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16675 Baldini says "When I fitted RAM unit I had a mismatch between dimensions of clutch pushrod & clutch centre button resolved by using OME button in RAM clutch."

As you say, the bike could still have the original charging problem.The regulator may be OK. The workshop manual says this:- "THE REGULATOR IS CERTAINLY DEFECTIVE IF: After having isolated it from the rest of the system short circuits can be detected between the earth (aluminum casing) and any of the output cables". See also extract from manual attached. Perhaps you could check that the regulator and the battery are well grounded, and the 30 amp charging fuse has been replaced with a separate 30 fuse & fuse holder after the new alternator is fitted. KiwiRoy has written a lot of helpful comment about this on this forum. Marty. WMV11_Alternator&Reg.pdf BTW, the page from the workshop manual attached shows that 30V AC from the alternator could be OK, depending on engine RPM.

If the rotor damage has swaged the rotor keyway tight behind the key, then it may never pull off. I suspect that you may still need to do some filing (or hacksawing) to allow the rotor keyway to open. See picture attached.

Hello Dimo, If that was my bike, I'd do this to remove the damaged rotor: 1) Remove both exhaust headers. 2) Undo both oil hoses from crankcase, and tie them up out of the way. Tape some rag over the ends of the hoses, and cap the crankcase fittings, so debris can't get in. 3) Fit a puller, heat the remains of the rotor, and try pulling it off. Heat helps, as aluminum expands more than steel. Hotter is better, keeping in mind that the engine can easily get to 120 deg C, so heating that hot is ok. 4) If that doesn't work, file a flat in the rotor, two places on opposite sides. Take care not to let the file touch the crankshaft or the crankcase. The idea is to make the rotor boss walls thinner so clamping loads on the shaft are reduced. You will also be able to fit an adjustable wrench on the flats to assist breaking it loose. Try turning the rotor back and forward with the wrench. It may come loose. The woodruff key between the rotor and the crank will stop it from turning, but wriggling may loosen it. Heat and pull again. 5) If the rotor is still tight, now you need an alert and useful friend. Get a big lump of steel like a 5kg bench vise (without the bench), and have him hold it against one flat you filed on the rotor. Firmly. If he messes this up, you risk bending and buggering your crankshaft. You get a steel cold chisel and a BIG hammer, and hit the thinnest part of the flat you filed, opposite to the bench vise, or whatever you used as a reaction mass. You are trying to stretch the diameter of the rotor, so it will become looser on the shaft. You need to leave a chisel mark along the rotor flat, both sides, deep enough to stretch the rotor, but not deep enough to damage the shaft. Try pulling the rotor after every hit. Hope this helps, Marty

Hello Rosso Mandello, can you share the reason that you need a transmission? If you are building a special, then I hope that you can share some pictures. If something has gone wrong with a six speed that you already have, is there any advice you can offer so we can avoid a repeat? thanks, Marty.

Actually that LED I put in my bike does have a little driver box or ballast, which fits easily into the bucket behind my sport naked headlight.For your more petite Scura headlight bucket, perhaps you could put the driver outside the bucket. The lead from the lamp to the box is long enough for this to be outside, but would need weather protection (unless you live in Southern California ). The reason I picked that lamp was that it didn't have a cooling fan, just big loops of copper braid, which press nicely onto the back of the steel sport naked bucket. You can feel the back get slightly warm if the headlight is on for a while. If the Scura bucket is plastic, this may not work so well, but I think it's worth a try. Marty

Thanks GuzziMoto, I stand corrected. My comments are OK for rubber, but not for urethane. However there are various opinions on the use and life expectancy of urethane in a joint designed for more resilient material like rubber. http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=103 http://www.fordmods.com/gearbox-suspension-brake-driveline-f4/upgrade-to-nolathane-bushes-diy-tips-and-tricks-t17799.html Nolothane is an Australian urethane bush manufacturer. They say use molybdenum disulfide lubricant on the inner bush diameter. http://www.nolathane.com.au/faq.php#q5 They claim good things about their bushes, but don't mention durability.

I believe that you should not lubricate these bushes. In car & truck suspension, rubber and urethane joints are not lubricated. Generally suspension joints are tightened once at the normal load position, then suspension movement is allowed by flex of the bushes. A temporary rubber assembly lubricant can help get things in place, if needed, which then quickly dries out. Any lubricant is bad for an elastomer joint, as it allows the elastomer to rub on the metal pin or housing, and believe it or not, the metal wears (very quickly), not the elastomer. Greases attract road grit, and some dry lubes attract moisture, assisting with joint wear. The advantage of tight rubber joints is they are immune to water and dust damage. Oil, age and sunlight are their only enemies. I personally would continue with an unlubricated rubber bush, tightened when the suspension is at ride height. Just as good would be ball rod ends (heim joints) which would last a long time if you could keep them clean & greased.

That's excellent! I was hoping that it would tell me about the oil; how much & how hot, so this is an unexpected benefit. Have you had it fitted long enough to see if it makes you more attractive to the opposite sex?

Walterg, I had that problem, but I couldn't manage an "intelligent look". My troubleshooting was more like desperate wriggling of wires & swapping relays. Back home I found two spade sockets in one of the relay bases were pushed back, and only touching the relay terminals tip to tip. Now I'm doing KiwiRoy's relay base repair. You might want to look at his advice here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15718&hl=%2Brelay+%2Bbase+%2Brepair

Just like GuzziMoto said, if you fit a larger oil cooler, then in normal operation, not much will happen. The V11 thermostatic oil temperature regulator would be operating the same as before, and it will shut off oil flow through the cooler if the oil is below 71 degC. A larger oil cooler will not cool more than the stock oil cooler unless you operate the engine for extended periods with the thermostat valve fully open, and the oil temp does not stabilise at safe levels. The regulator begins to open at 71 degC, and is fully open at 85-90 degC. You need better oil cooling if your oil is getting into the range of 160-180 degC (and you should be using fully synthetic oil at those temperatures). A temperature indicating dipstick will tell you how hot your oil is. As Jan said, oil too cold and too hot are both bad. If your oil is too cool, then the actions of some oil additives is inhibited, and condensation makes sludge form, as well as the obvious engine running clearances. Too hot and lubrication and cooling deteriotates and the oil forms varnish and carbon. So if you WANT to fit a bigger oil cooler, then you won't do any harm, as it can't cool below 71 degC. To decide if you NEED to fit a bigger cooler, then you need to collect some data.

Yes, I got a pale green 03 Sport Naked from Wanganui. The license plate says 04, the VIN says 03, and the build standard looks like an 02. The engine cases are finished in a stylish mix of cement, spacle and tar. It needed a lot of work, and still does, so my riding to wrenching ratio is bad. As they say "Moto Guzzi, making riders into mechanics since 1921". Luckily this forum saved me from a lot of trials and errors, so I haven't needed to learn how to swear in Italian... except when I was trying to refit the side covers over the stock airbox, or get that grommet back under the alternator cover, or grease that effing front u/joint, or get the injectors out of the throttle bodies, or repair burned electrical connectors, or replace the crankcase ventilation hose, or ... And I haven't started on pulling the bevel box apart to try fixing backlash. But what a joy to ride!

Hey Darryl, Would you like me to visit, and bring a meter? I know that you have a hammer, so we should have everything needed to fix your bike. I still blame you for getting me interested in Moto Guzzis. I don't remember all the details, but things got started with that magnificent home brew of yours, then things got foggy, but there was guzzi books, stories, looking at melted pistons, trophies N stuff in the shed. You will be able to look over my bike at the same time. Your bike may be newer than mine, but hey, mine starts with the push of a button.

Http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/sports/auction-1052021500.htm SN 344 for sale in NZ. It must be good, as the price seems high

Mine also has a stock crossover which is supported by a strong looking rubber isolating mount. It seems reasonable that a crossover without a support would put much greater stress on the muffler clamps.

Great looking mufflers! My bike has a set fitted by a previous owner, and I like the style, sound and performance. But you might be interested to know that the skin of the mufflers is thin and soft. They will dent if you frown at them. You may want to check the fit of the clamps before too long. When I got my bike, one of the mounting clamps had fallen off, and was missing. It scratched the plastic mudguard as it departed. Looking at the clamp locations on both mufflers, I could see that the Titanium Kit clamps had splayed open, and so the bends pressed onto the muffler skin. This dented and wore the mufflers almost all the way through under the clamps at the top. I decided to make a new clamp, as no-one seemed to have parts for this kit. Then I couldn't find a source of the 10mm rubber extrusion that protects the muffler from damage (it doesn't do a very good job). I found some 12 mm rubber, so I made a pair of clamps with wider straps. I used EPDM rubber extrusion as the surface of these glasspack mufflers seems to stay cool (ish), and I made the clamps from 1mm thick titanium/aluminium/vanadium alloy. The clamps have some springyness to allow the cans to move without denting more. I bolted the clamps using new nylock nuts, so they won't fall off like one of the the originals did. This coming winter I'm going to try the repair suggested by waspp http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13524&hl=titanium I hope that this helps you to keep your Titanio Kit Mufflers looking nice. Marty

I had battery charging problems, and since the Motobat battery had 2012 written on it, I thought it was toast. I bought a Shorai LFX21L6-BS12 to replace it. Then I had the brainwave that I should take advice from this forum before I fitted the new battery, and check the charging circuit. I found a melted 30 amp fuse, and burned connectors on the yellow wire pair between the alternator & regulator. I grounded the regulator as well. Now the old Motobat cranks too well to throw out, and the new Shorai is sitting on the shelf. Sigh.

...and a third way is to use a screw extractor. It winds into the hole in the metal remains of the sensor housing, and you can unscrew it easily. I fitted a brass temp sensor housing instead of the plastic one. MG part no. 30163301.

Mmm, beer!

Some pictures from various angles with only the tail light on, not brake, are attached. This partcular 1157 LED lamp does have good side beams. This is the first one I tried that didn't immediately get thrown into the parts bin. There is some real junk that you can buy on Aliexpress. I also added small arrays of LEDs at the sides of the taillight, taken from a previous attempt to find a good LED lamp. You can just see the light from two 12v arrays connected in series, wired to the taillight circuit, and put in a dark area of the taillight assembly where the reflector casts a shadow. I am trying to avoid those words:"sorry mate, I didn't see you".

I bought a LED tail light bulb from: https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20170527141419&SearchText=LED+red+1157 I'm pretty happy with it. I was going to replace the tail light lens but didn't want to do this until I had a LED lamp which is cooler than the incandescent bulb. The lens has a burnt area just above the bulb.

I bought a pair of H4 LED lamps from Aliexpress for US$49, free shipping. I only needed 1, but had to buy a pair. http://www.aliexpress.com/item/40W-3000lumen-2015-Newly-No-Fan-Design-H4-Hi-Low-Beam-Auto-Car-LED-HeadLight-Front/32466646186.html dead link .. https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20170521101957&SearchText=h4+led+copper The light is brighter than the Phillips 55/60 watt halogen lamp, but draws less current and stays cooler. Its been in the bike for a week, so I can't say how long it will last yet, but so far I'm happy with it. It was offset for RH traffic on low beam, so I had to grind the lamp H4 adapter so the offset suited LH traffic in this country. The picture shows the low beam higher on the LH side, but if you drive on the right, then your lamp & headlight lens will make the low beam higher on the right. The heatsink that all high power LEDs need is large loops of copper braid on this lamp. This fits well into the V11 Sport Naked headlight bucket. There is no cooling fan or clearance problem from an aluminium heatsink. The LUX readings shown in the picture attachment were from an app on my phone taken at 1 metre. I can't say it is accurate, but it could be good for comparison. Moto Fugazzi Ken said that blue light is not great in fog or rain. The LED colour is bluish, but I haven't tried it in the fog or rain. Its still summer out here.

Roy, Canada did the right thing with their flag. The current one is great, unlike their first effort. I think NZ should change to the new proposed flag. If nothing else, the fuss should get people out to vote at the next election.