Pressureangle

The gears will actually give you a bigger wet spot.

The signpost is a rusty Star Picket.

...and I entirely missed the part about the ignition sensing cam position, you cannot bring the ignition timing back where it belongs in any case. Ignition retards with the cam and the chain stretch. So now I am 100% pro-gear on injected motors.

I sort of wish I hadn't seen that. I know you're a huge fan of gears, and so am I. Now even moreso. How did that bit get past the screen into the pump?

I built a '85 LM1000 a few years ago, using a Web 86b cam and conical beehive valve springs with about 110# seat pressure and ~280# (?) over the nose of the cam. I used a Valtec tensioner in that, and it clocks over at 1000 rpm just fine, in fact the timing shows no fluctuation and I have to say I have no inclination to change it to gears. Just yesterday I started and timed my '89 Mille GT after having replaced the stock manual tensioner with a Valtec, again although with all stock valve gear and cam the timing is extremely steady. By appearances, the good tensioner does everything you need to cure the idle glitches. That said; This Mille GT appears to have been a fairly well-loved and well-kept bike most of it's life, if not perfectly maintained. The cam chain had about 3/8" slack on the manual adjuster, and contributed to crap idle and valve noise to the point I looked for a broken piston skirt. Now it ticks at 700rpm if I want it to. Here's the rub-the distributor bolts were stiff enough to make me think it's not been moved since the factory timed it, and after installing the tensioner I moved the timing somewhere between 5º and 10º to bring it up. That's a huge amount, and assuming it was ever where it belonged means these chains stretch a lot more than I would expect. Even if you bring the ignition timing back, the cam timing remains retarded to whatever extent the chain is stretched. On an engine with a 'big' cam (any of these Guzzi 'sporting' models) the idle quality and low-speed drivability hangs precariously on that timing to the extent that 4º is a very significant change. So you see there are two primary issues to consider, spark scatter and spark/cam timing. With a tonewheel and sensor, scatter apparently becomes a much larger problem, possibly due to simple ECU confusion. D'oh. I do love a succinct answer, which this is not.

I've installed one in my Sport-i of course, even though it's acknowledged that 5-speeds don't have the low gear acceleration enough to create a problem. I never saw my oil lamp flicker; but hey, it's a known issue with this engine configuration, and they're cheap insurance. What if one lives on a steep grade? Besides, all the cool kids have them.

If it costs nothing, it hurts nothing. It was dealership gravy in the RV industry, and I got rather disenchanted with the unethical propaganda they used to sell it. They charged something like $25/tire 15 years ago. If it's free and convenient, I'd use it myself. There is no downside.

Nitrogen has only two places in my world; 70% in the air I breathe, and 100% in tires where hot pressure is critical and blowouts contribute to fire safety. Nitrogen was a real fad for a while, but when you realize that if you let all the air out of your tires, and re-inflate with 100% nitrogen (can you verify that it's 100% nitrogen?) you still have all the regular atmospheric air in the tire left over. So you go from 70% nitrogen to 90% nitrogen. Even the guys who use it for tire pressure control use pressure caps when it's legal.

*strictly* for balancing engine components. and small electrical devices. and such.

Good grief, made me climb the ladder and wake up ol' 3-31 and remind myself how old I am. I have only 4 relays. Weights; Siemens original 15.1g GEI Chinese, 18.9g Omron USA, 20.1g The Omrons aren't noticeably heavier than what's in the bike, I'd been fondling my Seimens spares.

So I received my Omron relays today from eBay. All I can say is that the quality of the housing is notable better than some others, and that they literally weigh twice as much as the non-Omron relays I have in the bike. Yikes...they may actually be what we hope them to be.

I keep thinking that myself, but given the bashing of parts by the straight cut transmission, I like the idea of the bit of cushion provided. Getting a hose that fits and stays on is a challenge, to be sure.

Oh, and I have to say that the Caruso gears have made a *Yuge* difference in top end running as well as bottom. I have to ask myself if I'm imagining things. In the past, it seemed to take a very long time to get where it would go, indicated about 130. Although I've opened the airbox top since my last WOT speed adventure, 100 came and went so fast at part throttle it's like I sprouted an extra cylinder. We may check that Saturday.

Yes, it's a tiny hole but it only has to pass air as fast as the rear end can heat it. I'll add the hose by Saturday, to keep track of any oil that gets out, keep water out, and hopefully keep the heat cycles from drawing in any meaningful amount of our summer humidity.

Docc, I don't know about the V11 vent system. The 'Sport rear takes 250cc, I used Lucas 80/140 'super duper high performance' gear oil, with about a tablespoon of Jet-Lube open gear and cable grease, which appears to be pure Moly with enough grease to make it stick to stuff-I use that on the spliney stuff. So, after ~20 miles of "3 miles in the middle was 80-100mph" The housing temp was 116*F after 5-6 miles home @ 35mph. But yay, there is no trace of oil at the tip of the bleeder, I didn't even put a hose over it so I could be certain. Saturday I'll go beat it up where I can hold 70-100 for 1-15 miles, and take the temp gun with me. I know y'all have recorded drive temps, what's the norm? 116*F isn't even worth talking about in automotive axles.

Yeah, but this time the *skirt* is brass.

When I put the bike together a few years ago for my long trip, I went around looking for a reason for, and solution to, gear lube being forced out of the rear drive seal and onto the rim. I ended up drilling a hole in the filler plug and pressing a grease zerk with ball removed into the hole, and running 3-4 feet of tubing up the swingarm and along the frame, exiting by the rear turn signal. In the main it was ok, but at high speeds and unknown distances it still emptied about half the gear oil out of the box over my 10k mile trip. Whilst overlooking my deficits for the 2021 South'n Spine Raid, the tubing disintegrated. So I went looking again. I replaced the zerk with a brake bleeder, tapped and screwed in. The single hole in the bleeder faced forward, away from the flow of lube inside. Way better than the zerk, but still came home after 50 miles with some drool on the wheel, too much to tolerate. So here's my plan. I looked online at axle vents etc, and found one from a jeep with a plastic skirt under it, and a conical spring inside to 'filter' and decant oil back to the axle. I couldn't make it fit under the drive stay rod... but it did give an idea. I stole the spring out of it, went looking for a skirt and found that a brass PEX adapter was a very nice, very tight press into the underside of the fill plug. I wound the spring into the hole and pressed the adapter in with the bench vice, hopefully protecting the bleeder hole from any direct oil splash. Now, on to the testing. Yes, I've considered that it may shake loose. No, I'm confident that it can't-it's tight but not so tight to worry about cracking or splitting while pressing it.

The risk, it would seem, is in owning the Italian motorcycle instead of the German one.

I'd (no I wouldn't myself, actually) chuck it up into my cordless drill and spend a little time smoothing it out, then zinc primer it and final coat with black gloss Rustoleum. Let it dry well in the sun, or oven if you have no sun. It'll be so hard you'll think it's powder coated.

...on the other hand, you could stick the engine in a Yamaha golf cart and be the envy of your neighborhood, and the bane of the security guard.

I was just composing my post saying the same thing. You'll be in it for $2500 just to get it roadworthy. If it was complete with title, $500.

Yeah, I think from now on I'm just going to use MEK and Acetone after I investigate their tolerance by viton. It's not as convenient but I know it works. I'll use Gumout or CRC for places I have to spray.

Asked NAPA for a case of carb cleaner, they came back with about 8 cans of 'Mac's' carb cleaner. Who cares, right? So I'm working on the '89 Mille GT. Had the sump off, tried to clean it with Mac's. No go- simply doesn't cut oil and light, if old, mung. Bleah. Go to the carbs last night, been sitting some time so plenty of varnish. Put all the bits in a cup and make a puddle of Mac's. Doesn't touch the varnish or deposits. Bleah. Then, suddenly, right before my eyes, I watch the o-rings and inlet valve tips expand and disintegrate. Oh, happy day- carb cleaner that doesn't clean anything and destroys carburetor parts in less than 30 seconds. Inlet valve assemblies are $25 each. Just a 'beware'. Don't try to save a penny or a minute using this crap. I returned all of it, not that they cared at all.

Good eye, or I'm going senile. I guess I'll have to stock a few.

I'll go out on a limb and call this legitimate. I spent time on Omron's website, they do make these but you can only have them if you're an OEM automotive concern- probably at least a tier 1 supplier. So if I was that and could order them, I would, since they have a purchasing requirement but no apparent limitation on subsequent usage. They probably have a minimum order quantity of 500 or something. Oh and West Bloomfield is in the heart of Mopar territory. one last point, it's not 5/$30, it's *each*. bleah