Weegie

Ok now I understand, the reduced current which flows through the circuit when the tank is full and wouldn't light a bulb is still sufficient to illuminate the LED. A resistor in parallel wouldn't work, the easiest solution I can think of then is to use Roy's solution of a resistor in series to limit the current to the point that the LED won't iilluminate. Resistors are cheap, it doesn't cost much to try it and Roy even suggested a value which gives you a starting point. If it kept the LED lit on a full tank, step up the value. A relay in theory would also work, but matching the voltage to get the coil to pickup in the relay sounds like a bit of a nightmare, you'd also have to ensure it dropped out at an appropiate voltage too. I haven't read through the whole thread, but when I looked at that petcock you referenced on the SD page, my first thought was it looks awfully like a float switch, but I don't know Apologies for the misleading information, I'd not understood the problem fully.

The TWA 800 remark was made with my tongue firmly in my cheek and I agree. The idea of mixing components with current passing through them and a potentially explosive atmosphere might sound utterly mad, but could still be safe, it's dependent on a few different variables. I've never heard of any scenario of a tank exploding due to either a fuel pump or low fuel warning sensor failure either @Tinus89 am I missing something here? AFAIK its the properties of the thermistor itself that alters resistance, resulting in a higher current flow for the fixed Voltage across the circuit it has nothing to do with the bulb resistance. The bulb rating is chosen to allow it to be bright enough to be observed, but also to balance/limit the total circuit resistance. If the bulb resistance is too high (i.e. lower wattage) it won't allow enough current to flow and would never light. Too low, would result in too much current and burn out the thermistor. The Thermistor's resistance lowers as it gets hotter, when it's dunked in fuel it's cold and the resistance is high. When it gets uncovered, fuel below the sensor, the thermistor starts to get hot. When it gets hot the resistance lowers, that will also result in self heating (by how much I don't know). I don't understand the difference between using a bulb and an LED plus equivalent resistance, in a purely resistive circuit If I'm talking complete bollocks or missed something feel free to educate me (because I've never been accused of being "the brightest bulb in the building")

If you know the original bulb wattage, I cannot be arsed looking it up, you can easily work out the filament resistance then just wire in a resistor in parallel of the same value and it should work as @Tinus89 has already stated. No rocket science in the circuit, Ducati did the same thing back in the day, probably other Eye-Tal-yin producers. Still freaks me out a near empty tank, full of fumes and an electric current passing through a thermistor in the space. What could possibly go wrong, I mean TWA 800 was a fluke right?

Having conducted various science experiments with my HiCam engine, I was going to post but been beaten to it by some great info from previous posters, @Lucky Phil has already said more than I could add (and like him I run a 10/60 in my HiCam) Anectodally, I run 15/50s in my Sporti and I've never had any issues with the 2v/v engines. Now I always check the spec sheets, I was surprised by the viscosity differences from supppliers selling, what appears to be a similar product. All full synth group 4s at a given grades can vary quite a lot in their viscosities and viscosity index. That's all I have to add

Great stuff Phil I'm guessing this is for a another HiCam build, which I'll be following avidly (stalking???) It will be interesting to see what differences result from all the modifications on the "HiCam II" over the engine that's now in your Greenie Thanks for informing us of the latest and greatest from Joe, I do need to drop him a line at some point. One more thing, where did you source the MGS jackshaft from as it would an intersting upgrade to my HiCam? John

HUGE!!!!

Agree I tried to measure crankcase pressure on the Sporti when I was having blow-by problems (which were due to the bores being outwith spec from when they left the factory, but that's another story). It fluctuates, obviously with piston movement so cycles every revolution, but I wouldn't think it was any greater than a couple of inches of water gauge overall. Might see more if you placed a high speed transducer to read the pressure peaks. That said rubber hose will (at least partially) absorb these peaks and as @audiomick pointed out the system is open to atmosphere on the frame Here's some idea of the amount of air that's being moved

I'm with Phil IMHO far too much navel gazing regarding oil level in the sump I ASS-ume it's a Broadsump, although I don't own a V11 I have 2 Broadsump bikes, a Sporti and HiCam (Daytona engine). I've got Roper plates in both and fill to just below the plate and never had any issues, that's well above the high mark on the stick. I find the dipstick a PIA I can never read it reliably, but that could be me. Volumes quoted for sump levels are as @GuzziMoto stated are based on a dry engine, which will never be the case on an oil change, so sump levels/dipstick markers are a better indicator I'm not saying "do what I do" or that it's correct, just it's perhaps not quite as critical as some folks make out

Not in my extensive archive of images of bodged attempts at spannering/wrenching and unsuitable for children and those of a nervous disposition I'll see if I can get some pictures later but kind of difficult what with all the other paraphernalia Guzzi managed to insert in there

With the Sporti I used 2 silicone elbows and an alloy tube for the main breather from the engine to the frame. Silicone isn't recommended for oil, but when I asked the supplier he stated that for a breather it would probably be Ok and so far no problems. Just saying that if obtaining the part is too difficult or expensive, it's not beyond the wit of man to fabricate something. Pretty sure compatible material elbows are available

Just to add to Pete, from my travails with the HiCam @Lucky Phil should get most if not all of the credit in helping me to at least have an understanding of the issues. The 'C' kit cams are the reason that my bike runs hot, this isn't a problem above 40mph where sump temps are stable around 100C and oil pressure doesn't drop below 60psi. However at slow speed, in traffic or extended idling will lead to high oil temps and decaying pressures as the oil thins, once above 110C it goes downhill fast (that's running a 10/60 oil). Did @Paul Minnaert not also have cooling issues? I think he went to a Vee sump and then also added a cooler, but I don't know if he had 'C' kit cams nor what other mods were completed to that engine Very few bikes have the 'C' cams, only the Daytona RS engines and due to US emission regs the RS models supplied to America didn't get the 'C' cams either. All the Centis have the standard cams. As far as deleting the cooler, I'd agree that it certainly wouldn't be something I'd consider even on a Centi or 'B' kitted Daytona (that said the Dr John's were 'B' kitted and didn't have a cooler). The Guzzi design for the oil cooler on the Daytona broadsumps, Centis and Sportis isn't particularly good IMHO. The hoses to and from the cooler use banjos both at the engine and cooler and on both inlet and return, this incurs a pressure drop penalty and lower flow through the cooler. I installed a considerably smaller cooler onto the Australia (it was all I could find that would fit) than the OEM, but used full flow fittings and when I tested it and the OEM back to back the smaller cooler performed better by 3-4 degC. I've got a slightly larger one to install this year, space is the biggest problem with installing a different cooler to the Australia. Apologies for drfting off topic, might help Centi or Daytona owners I know nothing of the V11 4v/v engines John

Couldn't see it in the manuals I referenced. The procedure laid out for the Daytona etc: in the manual starts with checking the TPS before moving to vacuum balance on the TBs. The Sporti as I recall has a different TPS but the procedure in the manual is the same

I looked in the workshop manuals for the early Daytona and a later one covering the Daytona RS/Centauro/Sporti In the injection chapter both of them quote the 150mV +/- 15mV docc. Perhaps the US manuals are different but the statement is present in the copies I have, the +/- 15mV equating to a tolerance.

Can I ask which ECU we're discussing here? I'm going to reset the TPS and then do a throttle body balance on the Australia later this year, Hi Cam engine like the Daytona & 16M ECU. Anybody care to comment if there would be any benefit in setting my TPS to 157mV per Meinolf recommendations?

Looking at these pics above, interesting that the Tacho is sitting at 1500 RPM. I've got a pair of Speedhuts on the Sporti and when I switch off the bike the tacho will drop to exactly the same position. When I cycle the ignition switch the tacho then drops to zero. I always thought it was something unique to my bike, or something stupid I'd managed when hooking them up