Speedfrog
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Posts posted by Speedfrog
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Hi @Chuck, do you have any more Lucky Phil shifter brackets available by any chance?
Thanks!
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Anyone familiar with these spacers or fabrication in general have suggestions as to having one made?
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I got a nice set of spare wheels for the Café Sport - Thanks @KINDOY2
- Originally from a Scura which has a different front axle configuration even though they both have Ohlins forks. The Scura front wheel has the two size bearings - 20/25mm ID - with the sleeved and shouldered spacer, the CS has two 25mm bearings with the spacer sandwiched between the two inner races.
I pulled the bearings out and was looking for the latter spacer (GU01615290) and found it is still available from most usual suppliers but at a premium, ~$130+. Ouch!
So, what are my options; 1_ Trying to find a used one is the simplest and most obvious solution but my Google-fu didn’t yield any result so far. 2_ Have one fabricated which give me the choice of material (more options here, suggestions welcomed) and probably gonna end up with a similar price tag as a new one. 3_ Cough-up the mulla and be done with it...
Anyone here with a spare spacer gathering dust on a shelf?
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16 hours ago, docc said:
That particular Scura is an AMAZING complete refurb having addressed every known issue to both V11 and the Scura. So well done!
I had the pleasure to see it in the flesh and it is indeed a stunning and tastefully detailed machine. High level of craftsmanship, chapeau mister!@KINDOY2
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@p6x Metal core timing cover gasket:
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1 hour ago, Lucky Phil said:
This is why I never run anything other than clear scratch pads. Even if you can't use an identically shaped replacement it doesn't matter as there will be no fade line. I guess you could always source some material and make the shape to suit the fade lines.
Ciao
Good point!
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On 4/21/2022 at 11:42 AM, FreyZI said:
In other news, I finally landed on a center tank pad to cover up PO's crookedly applied pad and subsequent discoloration. The new pad hasn't completely resolved the problem, but it's better than how it was. Another benefit is that we know for certain what gender this bike is now.
I like the look of that pad and how it follows the tank curves!
Is it some sort of faux carbon finish?
Would you mind letting us know where you found it? Thanks!
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40 minutes ago, p6x said:
When I received the Becker stand, the instructions sent were in German.
Well, like my UJM riding shopmate always says, these Guzzis are “real men bikes”… and we all know real men don’t need instructions…
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I have ordered parts from MG Cycles in the past and they are a great vendor, in fact, I still have a running wish list with them.
I also order from AF1, TLM and Stein-Dinse as well as Ebay vendors for used parts and I am glad for ALL of them to exist in supplying the bits needed to keep our steeds running.
As for the purchase of the Becker stand, the savings were a bit too substantial to ignore, not only the base price at MG was almost twice that of S-D, they wouldn’t even disclose their shipping charges before purchase. To me, operating my moto passion on a limited budget, not knowing how much I’m gonna be charged before I order doesn’t make me want to pursue that particular transaction.
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I too have opted for the Becker stand. I have been using one for the Griso for years and I've been happy with it, getting the bike on and off of it is quite easy once you've done it a couple of time. Once attached to the bike it pretty much functions as a good ol' center stand. I actually find it easier to attach to the V11 than the Griso.
My V11 came with a MG factory stand that had been altered to work like a Becker with two 18mm sockets rather than having the support directly on the porkchops lower nuts and although it works decently on the ground, I didn't like to use it on the lift as the handle ends up outboard of the platform and requires to be supported by a block of wood about a third of the way down the length of the handle. The Becker is much more compact and doesn't get in the way when working on the bike. Also the MG stand in its original configuration had left some nasty bite marks in the porkchops from its (mis?!)use by previous owners...
I toyed for a minute with the idea of modifiying the Becker stand I already had for the Griso and adapting it to the V11 which shouldn't be too difficult but that meant changing the fittings back and forth every time I needed it for the other bike and negating the possibility to have 2 bikes on the stand at the same time. Not worth it for the price of a second stand imho.
I got both of my stands from Stein-Dinse in Germany at quite a bit of savings compared to MG Cycles. I actually received that last one for the V11 last week for about $120 including shipping, along with other parts I needed and it got to my door in 3 days...! Very well packaged and faster than most suppliers in the US.
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I wish I could walk down to the shop and check on the Sport 1100, but it's not part of the stable... yet.
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One thing I would like to see, is the option of marking the topics of one’s interest as favorites and kept in an ad-hoc personal folder for future reference. It would be convenient to be able to quickly access those topics containing info and links that one finds valuable without doing an all out forum search.
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24 minutes ago, docc said:
While the collet portion is not threaded, the "shaft" portion of the snout is were my "loose"/(normal?) threads are. And the tighter threads within the knob portion.
As described, that knob mounted backwards on the throttle rod of a Sport 1100 would have friction as soon as the threads engage on the rod then.
I’m not trying to make a case one way or another, it just doesn’t compute in my little backyard engineer brain.
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If it is indeed the same knob on both models, could it be that the friction is only provided by the split collet portion, which looks unthreaded on docc’s close up picture of the knob.
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18 minutes ago, Pressureangle said:
Are you making an inquiry, or asserting an opinion?
When referring to the picture of your assembly, you’re right.
It just seems backwards when looking at the V11 assembly...
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6 minutes ago, Speedfrog said:
That seems backwards to the intended goal...
WAIT, so going back to @Pressureangle first picture it looks like the knob is mounted in a reverse position on the rod as it is on the V11. Are we looking at the Sport 1100? Is it a different configuration between the Sport1100 and the V11?
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1 hour ago, Pressureangle said:
If I was an engineer (prone to over-thinking lol) I'd make the portion under the fingerknob regular to facilitate starting threads during assembly, and make those inside the snout to interference spec.
That seems backwards to the intended goal...
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BTW, once you’ve opened the “Unread Content” page, which you can find the link for both at the top and bottom of any page within the forum, clicking on the blue dot preceding the thread title will take you directly to the unread content within that thread. Very useful for those multi page threads.
It took me a while to figure that one out!
Buongiorno a tutti!
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What he says ^^^.
“Unread content” is the best way to stay abreast of the latest activity and it’s scrollable ad infinitum.
Already baked-in!
Cheers!
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It does look pretty tattered from the pictures...
Might turn into a pumpkin past midnight...
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2003 Scura for sale in Berkeley, CA - $4,500
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/mcy/d/berkeley-moto-guzzi-v11-scura/7463445221.html
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Working as it should! Site is very responsive now.
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Starting yesterday, I am experiencing very long delay accessing and loading pages within the forum, with sometime a time out error message from the server.
This happens across different devices and only with v11lemans.com. Any other website is loading properly...
Anybody else experiencing similar behavior?
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Front wheel bearing spacer
in Technical Topics
Posted
Yes Docc, The wheels are the same aside from color. It just takes different bearings and inner spacers to accommodate for the different axles. Essentially adapting the wheel to your fork/axle configuration. There’s no concern about the spacers between the bearings and the fork legs as you can just reuse them.
@Pressureangle yes, a pretty simple thing once you’ve got the proper tubing stock to cut to length. I need a tube that’s 104 mm long with a 25 mm id. It has to be smooth inside, but how close in diameter to the axle OD? The oem is steel but could it be made of aluminum? It would be lighter but would it be strong enough?