luhbo

You tell her

You still have a lot to learn, man. You never call it "FILTHY". It's not just any bike. Practice sentences including expressions 'disastrous rain', 'reliable and confident', 'brought me home', 'wifey loves it' (ok, better don't overstress), words like that. When you're new you might have some problems, then, a couple of days later, the right words should come fluently. Exercise, later on this will ease your Guzzista experience. Glad, though, that you put up the nice pics.

Half an hour and you're in. Or down.

Look at that spotlessly clean throttle body! And it seems he's even riding it

Your engine isn't that bad. Maybe once it's done 200000 or more. Maybe. One thing I remember after I've put in new rings was that the water/oil foam agglomeration under the valve covers went down to nil. Nearly as good as a leak down test

You should find quite a remarkable pulsing, somewhere, as both pistons move in and out rather synchronous.

Step by step. That's the biggest thing with Guzzi, the ease of disassembly without having to pull the engine.

I too would say lifter or push rod. It's said the push rod ends can become loose. Anyway, that sounds like you have to go in. Nothing you could sell the bike with.

Germany the same as England: Up to 5% (E5), or a little bit cheaper (lower taxation) E10 with up to 10%. Most avoid E10, usually because of paranoia, some by political/ethical reasons. I tried E10 and I think the bike liked it, but maybe it was just the right Guzzi day. On the other hand Shell V-Power (100Roz, maybe 0% Ethanol) performed worse than plain E5, at least I felt so. I'm quite sure that having the valves to spec and the throttles balanced makes a much bigger difference to how the bike behaves. https://www.motor-talk.de/videos/shell-m-2000-werbung-1988-v1116649.html

I opened my first engine after 125.000 km, pistons and sleeves looked nearly as new, alas I didn't measure the ring gaps. I put in new ones while the engine was open. Can't say whether that was due, but I don't think so. In your case I definitely wouldn't change anything. To me the measured values seem reasonable. That's about 10 and 9.3 bar. Geometric compression is about 9,5:1, so 10 isn't bad (compression starts not before the inlet valve has closed). From a Beemer forum: Could you perhaps post a picture of where you found that rattling valve on your bike?

To prevent the transmission case from cracking you should loosen the other bolt, the one behind the fuel hose in your picture. My theory is that most of the broken or yet to brake cases go onto this bolt. This point is poorly designed. Maybe it was designed better, once, then it must have fallen under a cost reduction program, same as the bracket.

What is unsafe here? What will happen in case the piston suddenly snaps down? Does anyone have his fingers inside the engine during a leak test?

The Centauro (and the LMII) might become the most sought-after bikes of them all one day. Not too many of them sold, nearly all of them were rebuilt to LM resp. Café in general. Nowadays it's easier to get a V7 Sport than a LM2. THX for the whole thread, btw., and all that pics.

How was the concert?

I mentioned that I have a 2 colour LED circuit from Wayne Orwig directly attached to the instrument lighting, going from dark red over orange to a bright green. Although I have the main lights feeded through relais I definitely could see the colour of the LED changing, obviously not following any concrete scheme. Right after starting the engine it was well green, then it faded to a beginning orange, darker at higher revs, better (greener) under wet conditions, some days it was the other way round. While also thinking about switching the reference from the parking light directly to the battery I found something different to be the cause for this problem: while checking the main connectors I remembered having seen an additional separately boxed 30A fuse directly behind the aftermarket regulator on this new bike. It turned out that the reason for all decribed above was that one of its legs was totaly corroded, the green cover nearly completely molten, all just a brittle charred mess. So, let's assume that the reg/rec system either works or not, then it might be obviously better to have the reference for any type of voltage indicator not directly at the battery but instead somewhere in the harness. In my case I could have seen earlier that something is about to go south in my harness. The LED was telling it, I was just thinking the unlikely things first. Again. In short: picking up the voltage reference directly at the battery might not be the best solution.

The label on these batteries say "float charge 13.8V". I'd stick to this value. More IMHO just means stress and induced ageing for the battery as well as for the other electrical components. A flickering light could indicate a dying regulator, unless the light is switched to ground. Then it would indicate a beginning shortage somewhere between light and regulator. That's no problem - if only this one single cable is damaged.

Don't dispose it. It's a nice strong multi purpose rubber hose.

Isn't the idea well enough?

I found 0,8 and 3.3k Unless you use top quality equipment you'll have problems to get the 0.8 right. Note the k, it says Kilo Ohm

Point triggered ignition systems don't cook their coils. Not as long as the correct coils are used. Put in the wrong type of coil and it's rather prolly.

For me that would definitely be the day I quit motorcycling. As if this thread wasn't hard enough already ... Of which day do you speak? Don't know, realy, can't imagine that. What I could theoretically imagine is me owning a 1200 Sport, black. Theoretically.

Check the steering head. Too tight and unnerving is a rather friendy expression.

For me that would definitely be the day I quit motorcycling. As if this thread wasn't hard enough already ...

Warning Light stands for the two open contacts/connectors close to the ECU. Older ECUs sent flashcodes over them. I'm running a 5V adaptor from the positive one.

You should try to get some professional hands-on help at this point. Don't ruin the cable harness, else you probably will have to sell your bike for cheap.