BrianG

Nice idea! I too, do not like the light return force on the brake pedal.

Carl, can you explain that? How would contamination affect the swing arm pin threads? Do you mean that contamination might lead to cross-threading when reassembling? or to some kind of wear as a result of pork chop to swing arm misalignment? Assembling those pins into their threads was definitely a challenge!!

One of the few places Guzzi gremlins are unlikely to be found. Be careful with the lift......... the swing arm is going to fall out........

They bolt to the rear end of the "spine" which is T'd to small discs that mate with bosses on the backside of the porkchop and are fastened with those 4 domed allen head bolts and nuts. At the bottom they link the lower sub-frame. Those large chromed nuts which appear to be jamb nuts (and are) fix the swingarm pivot shafts, which are threaded into the porkchops. Pretty simple......... Support the front wheel ( I use on of those drive-on wheel chocks). Mount the bike on something under the engine to support the weight and unweight the suspension. Stabilize the frame at the handle bars and upper subframe (remove the seat) to ceiling trusses if you can. Remove the swingarm pivot shafts. Remove the rear brake master cyl. Remove all of the porkchop bolts/nuts and off it comes...

PM sent........ He's hard to get a hold of at this time of year! Apparently he works a few months a year....

Has anyone out there succeeded in importing and registering a Centauro in Canada. They fall into a period of time where Moto Guzzi didn't bother with the Canadian certification paperwork and consequently no Centauro is able to be imported into Canada except as an off-road (track) machine. Rumor has it that there is a way around this issue by using the "home constructed" registration process. Anyone here done that with a MG??

Is there any value to the process of balancing the MG engine in the way that automobile engine builders balance hi perf engines? From what I understand, the process involves weighing and equalizing piston and con-rod weights, and dynamic balancing of the rotating mass.

Please explain................

OK... here's what worked for me. The shifter was getting stuck when down-shifting because it could over-travel in that direction. Adjusting the slotted eccentric bolt that resides under the acorn nut counter-clockwise resolved that issue. 1/8th turn increments is likely appropriate. 1/8th turn the wrong way made downshifting impossible. 1/8th turn past ideal created the same problem, but in the opposite direction. The net result of this "adjustment" is that the transmission shifts very smoothly, with much less "throw" in both directions, and many fewer missed shifts. It's not quite a Honda-matic, but it's WAY closer than any othe Guzzi I've ever ridden! I hope this helps someone else out there get their shifting sorted.

Anyone know, off hand, what the thread size is for the shifter rod? Looks to be 6mm X 1.0???

Upon re-assembling my 2000 V-11 Sport's transmission to re-seal the cases, I find that: Shifting into 1st results in some over-travel of the shifter... sometimes to the point of hanging in the full-throw position. I have the parts book and the service manual in hand but no joy on determining how this eccentric works, or how to determine which way to turn it.... Which way to turn the shifter adjustment eccentric bolt to remedy this?

I learned to use this stuff when I bought my 1972 Norton Commando. I was the only fellow in our group that didn't spend an hour re-tightening fasteners for every hour of riding. I have found that one decent drop smeared along the distal half-dozen threads is lots for anything under 10mm. 'ratchethack'........Can you spell "obsessive-compulsive??? I buy brake-clean by the case, and my wife wonders why there are never any Q-tips in the house! For a bigger project (like resealing the transmission) where you have a great many bolts, I use a yogurt container 1/2 filled with Varsol (or similar), and throw all the fasteners in the container and shake them up, then distribute them on a towel and rub them dry all together....... this leaves the threads nice and clean. pushing a Q-tip into the threaded case-hole and "unscrewing" it from the hole leaves the case threads clean. Where I don't use thread-lock I use anti-seize, as at the large engine-to-frame mounting bolts. I have pulled aluminum threads out of castings where steel fasteners were used without locking compound or anti-seize, and that's not fun to fix!

Looks like a Centauro to me...........

I also saw a V-11 Sport with a Honda VTR (SuperHawk) fairing grafted on. Looked very nice.

The only issue with this solution is that the Magni fairing puts you in a substantially more aggressive (lower clip-ons) riding position.

I'd guess it was a "While You Are In There" issue.

Is your bike one that required recall transmission servicing? If so, it may be that, like mine, the wizard tech that re-assembled the thing didn't read the manual on the dual-plate clutch, and botched the plate orientation ( getting the front one back-to-front). After very little mileage the friction surface wears enough that the center-hub of the mis-oriented front disc contacts the flywheel face, effectively eliminating that disc from the clutch pack. It's a simple matter of reversing the orientation of that clutch disc.............. hahaha...

Good call docc....... intermittent closed. Cleaned it up with contact cleaner and it got better. Ordered new one!

A draggy clutch will make shifting at rest difficult.... particularly finding neutral from above or below.

Minor details........... I finally fired up the 2000 V-11 Sport after relpacing the clutch and re-sealing the transmission. There is no neutral indication anywhere through the gear selections. The indicator worked at disassembly (big surprize!!) I tested the indicator system by taking the neurtal switch lead, at the transmission, to ground. Green "N " came on. Road test reveals normal non-neutral) start-up (with clutch lever pulled and kickstand retracted) and normal non-neutral kick-stand kill. Neutral is found between 1st and 2nd like it should be. Riding reveals all 6 gears available. So, the question is....... did I mis-assemble something inside the transmission or did I somehow kill the neutral-indicator switch?

I have recently greased the splines on the driveshaft of my 2000 v-11 Sport. The problem comes in the re-assembly. It seems that there is no vent in the shaft to allow the air out as one shaft slips into the other. I cleaned out the interior of the forward (female) shaft to be certain that I wasn't getting a hydraulic lock on compressing the shafts. But still, on reassembly of the rear suspension, there is a preload on the torque strut caused by the compressed air in the drive shaft. Is this normal? Have I missed something? Is something plugged that should be letting the air out? Wil this right itself with some riding?

90 degree angle drives are readily found from speedometer rebuilders. Google will reveal many.

What fairing did you use? Got any pics?

NOT TRUE! I took mine to the chrome shop and asked if they would just polish them as they would in preparation for chroming. The fellow said he'd get that stainless looking as if it had been chromed. They started off flat-dull and goldish-browm with a couple of really ratty looking spots that look like something had baked on. Now, you would not believe that they are the same 25,000 mile pipes I took in. They are bright and as shiny as chrome, but with a slight gold glint. No, he didn't actually plate them. Only had the head pipes done. Will definitely have the Feracchi X-pipe done when it comes. Cost was $60.00

Cheater cheater cheater.......... if I turn them out they are OK, ecxept they widen the bike by a foot! I went back to stockers on the lever-mounts.