BrianG

Ain't nothin' vague about my V-11S

Not significantly....... which is why mine isn't mounted...... I could be convinced to sell it, though... It is black, with a new windshield and all the hard parts....

Or this??

Bwaaahaaahaaa......... not around here!

I think Italian engineers are either not that devious or not that smart!

I hated all that junk, too! This is an early R1 integrated tail light with hand crafted aluminum license plate holder.

I can attest to the assertion that this 4000rpm flat spot is not simply a A/F issue. I ran a baseline dyno run with OEM parts, and noted the flat spot. Then I ran with Mistral cans and a drilled air-box lid, which demonstrated a small increase in Hp above the flat spot, but this made the flat spot more noticable to the seat-of-the-pants, negatively affecting "drivability". Then I ran with a PCIII on the dynotech computer coupled dyno. This flattened the flat spot somewhat and added another couple of Hp, but from down around 2000 rpm all the way to over 5000rpm, which was very noticable to the seat-of-the-pants, very positively affecting "drivability". My take is that there is some room for improvement of the "V-11 flat-spot" through mixture tuning, but the issue is larger than just that.

It looks to me like they inserted a spacer for the mirror, between the handle bar and the bar-end piece. I lathed a band in mine for the mirror clamp. For what it's worth, I found that mirror insufficient for traffic and returned to the stockers.

Why do you want heavier bar ends?? Drop the forks a bit if the turn-in is too slow!!! Seriously... if it's handle bar buzz that you are trying to kill, fill the bar(s) with #6 lead bird shot. (not steel)

If you mean Pirelli Diablo Strada I agree 100%. And I like them better than the Metzler of apparent same lineage. I found the Pirelli more progressive in slippage. YMMV

The good news is that this juggernaut provides a rich source of material for the true aficionado!

I pulled the center hub off my transmission when centering the double clutch plates on the V-11 Sport. It's only held on by one center nut........

Done

This is called a "floating caliper" design, and the caliper floats on it's mounting bolts. By virtue of the same Pascal's law, a properly floating caliper should provide equal pressure to both pads. These floating calipers foul on their mounting bolts far more frequently than caliper pistons foul in their bores, hence a both-sided piston arrangement is better functioning, albeit more expensive.

I just finished that mod as well. My concern with the "under tension" situation would be a metalurgical one. While using the Dremel to elongate that 6mm hole, I noticed that the material ground away quite readily. This would tend to indicate a casting, as opposed to a forging. As you may know, static castings are fairly strong, but also fairly intolerant of tension loads. I fear for sudden catastrophic failure of that kickstand support bracket, my dear fellow. Hate to see your pride and joy laying on its side!

Indeed....... crack the tank cap at the first sign of this phenomenon. If you hear a rush of air and that resolves the running issue, Bob's your uncle. (for the diagnosis, Dave!)

A friend of mine has a similar solution on his bike. He'd blow the oil out of the holes..... Kinda messy, but effective!

If the screw bleeds air without affecting fuel, it is an idle mixture adjustment. If it were a vernier throttle-plate stop adjustment, shifting the TPS (fuel) as well as the throttle plate (air), I'd agree. The significant issue with regard to that bleed screw position is that there is no easy reference for "correct". As mentioned above, few have access to a CO meter, and even my WB-O2 meter gives weak references at idle. There is little point to getting too excited about this setting's measurement since it will have to be "close enough" to give decent idle character, it is a useful TB balance trimmer, and it has little effect on that portion of the throttle opening where significant power is being made, where mixture become critical.

Small notches is the way to go.... I cut them with a small triangular file. Very easy and very quick.....

I think the idle speed TPS value is as useful as an idle RPM spec. It's an interesting indication of what the factory thinks is appropriate, but it's really a matter of taste. The closed throttle value is a datum point, or baseline spec. From that point on the ECU responds with the appropriate amount of fuel for the throttle opening, no matter what the opening amount is. So who cares that you may like a Harley Davidson idle of 800 RPM and I like a race-track idle of 1400 RPM? As long as the baseline TPS value was correct, the idle TPS value will be appropriate for the chosen RPM... Since the A/F map is simply a software algorithm that takes its primary fuel requirement indication from the TPS voltage, one could mess with altering the closed throttle/baseline datum point voltage in the same way as you would mess with main jets in order to find best milage or best power or whatever other parameter diddling with A/F ratios might net you. Of course this will just get you into trouble as it has gotten me... having a wide-band A/F gage and my PC lll, I targeted Stoich (14.7:1 A/F) for less-than-1/3 throttle..... fading toward Best Power (12.6:1 A/F) at greater than 2/3 throttle. It doesn't feel much different than the map that the DynoTech dyno wrote, so we'll see what the milage does..... All I can say is that it's easier than swapping jets! And as to this idle-mixture screw for the final TB balancing............. that's just WRONG! Given that correct idle mixture is a separate entity, adjusted with this jet..... varying from the "right" mixture to affect idle speed (rather than varying throttle opening) is akin to altering idle speed by jamming your boot against the flywheel to adjust idle speed. I mean really... just because a side effect of "wrong" idle mixture is depressed idle speed, how do we get to where we think it's the right thing to do??

Should be close..... it's a 5v reference system, and the TPS should vary the voltage signal from some designe"0" (apparently 150 mv) to near-system-reference...5v at WOT... in order to provide the fullest range of values to the ECU. 485 mv is typical idle voltage....

Installed the plate last night and had the same hole alignment problem mentioned by others. It seems that the circumferential hole pattern is a bit clocked with the thermostat housing pattern. As others have done, I accommodated the issue by expanding the rear holes for the thermostat housing, to 7mm. Problem solved. I noted that the plastic oil dip stick very slightly fouled the edge of the hole it passes through on it's way into the sump. Just enough, in fact, to score the 4 edges to create a graduated progression of marks indicating the precise position of the Roper-plate on the dipstick. I subsequently used a round file to bevel the edges of said hole. I found that 4 liters of oil is pretty much the new magic number. With new filter and emptied oil cooler lines 4 liters left me just below the plate.... which you can actually see down there, if you use a flashlight shined down the dip stick hole! Nice piece Pete! Glad to have it!

Wouldn't it have been nice if Louigi had put the TPS on the left side throttle body?? Then you'd just set the closed TPS value, crank up the idle speed and balance the right throttle body into the mix and you'd be done! Sounds like a winter project to me!

OK.. I've just installed my Roper Plate and didn't come across these o-rings as listed in the parts-required list... 90706140 x2 O-rings for the thermostat housing. Where are these? and did I miss something or is the "guts" that is held on with the 4 longer bolts the "thermostat housing? I did, however discover that there are 4 o-rings in the 2 oil filter-line "joiners" that might need attention. Lock-tite??? On the internal sump-spacer bolts and the 4 "thermostat housing" bolts?

You must have it set up wrong.... Mine holds the throttle on but is easy to roll off past the friction....