BrianG

I am going to change the front brake master cylinder to a Brembo 19X29 radial unit. I need to know if the handle bar diameter is 7/8 or some metric value. Does anyone know for certain? Any opinions on the selected specs?

I used an integrated unit built for an early Yamaha R1

I had Max, at Traxxion Dynamics replace the Maez valves with his units, and re-spring it with 1.10kg springs, then I put on a Penske shock with a 500 lb spring. Then I set the sag to the proper values. I happy now, either because it works so much better, or because I spent so much kmoney.... not sure which!

For shit sake, it's just a word!

Do those deep-sump kits include a pick-up extension?? If they don't, one isn't gaining anything in terms of the oil starvation issue, then, are they??

The thing about bar end dampers is that vibration is an issue of harmonics. Engine RPM is the source of the vibration and that vibration varies over the range of RPM, so no single vibrational frequency can be said to be the target of the "tuned vibrational damper" that a "specified weight" bar end weight would seek to be. As well, minor differences from machine to machine would also conspire to alter any target frequency that might be identified on any single bike. The plasticity of the bolus of lead shot (and of the lead itself) serve to broaden the range of damping provided by the total mass of the bolus. This does provide the best damper for a given mass.

Could, but less effective......... on birds, too!

Another great trick is to fill the handle bar with fine bird shot (#7). This has the same effect as it does in a "dead-blow" hammer, plus it's really cheap!

I have my data logger set to read in A/F ratio rather than lamda. So, I have my A/F map set to 14.7:1 up to 1/2 TPS, and then fade rapidly to 12.5:1 for all of the upper 25% of TPS. This did noit result in any significant increase in max hp or max torque, but it did substantially smooth the midrange torque dip in the 2500-4000 rpm range. Still not progressively climbing as it does before and after this "spot", but at least not a dip any more. Also, I did get some "very low TPS" stumbling. I just enrichened the lowest 3 rows in the lowest 2 columns (6 cells) by an arbitrary 20% and that drivability issue went away.

I'm in..... Shipping to Canada?

Are there more available?

What upper fairing is that?

Love my Strada's front and rear!!

Well, I'm going to put in a set of progressive fork springs this winter............. just to see if I really DO have my head up my ass!! Now I need to find a source of progressive spring for the Penske shock, too....................... Todd?????

I'm about the same heftiness as Tom. I had Traxxion Dynamics revalve the Marz forks, and they placed 1.10kg springs in my 2000 Sport. They are a little firm on gentle cruises but really nice in the twisties. If I were to use progressive springs I'd try to get the 1.10 value to fall just high of the middle of the range. That'd make 0.85 - 1.25 what you wanted. IMHO Then carefully set your loaded sag to 30% front and back. YMMV

Yes, I installed the Givi Monokey 3 platform system on my 2000 V-11 Sport. Attachment at rear passenger foot peg-to-subframe mounting point with through bolt and spacer, plus strut to the exhaust can mount bolts. I use 21 liter panniers plus the 50 liter top case when necessary. I'll get pics up here......

I switched to the 160 on my 2000 V-11 Sport from the 170 that was on it, and I switched from Pilot Road to Diablo Strada brand. I'm not certain how much is a result of which change, but I feel like I stold someboy else's bike! It's still not like my son's R1, but neither is it like my dad's strato-glide, any more.........

Was the tank out with VERY soapy water, and then rinse it out a few times. Take it to your welder and have him flood the interior of the tank with the Argon or CO2 gas from his MIG or TIG machine, and then close up the gas cap. Brazing is likely the best idea. Be aware that "pin hole" leaks along any low-point on the gas tank, (especially at a seam or fold) is an indication of an internal rust issue, and a precursor to more of the same...... Every bike with a metal tank should have 1/2 a can of gasline antifreeze (methanol) run through it every year at the end of the season.

Their website seems to offer both.............. MG1071510 clutch friction disk, RAM clutches, standard friction compound $80.00

OK... so a RAM clutch will convert this to a single-plate unit from my current double-plate type? I can't decide between the organic disc and the sintered metal one, from the available reading material. Opinions?

Very nice work! I'll be stealing this idea for my Adventure-touring RC-51 project!

'nuff said....... Snorkel on and down I go! Would still appreciate a list of parts to order.........

For me, it's the torque issue. It's certainly not a big deal once you are used to it, but get a look at the face of the fellow you swap bikes with when you laugh and launch his RC-51 hard off the light, and he does the same with the Sport. There's nothing funnier than listening to him describe the feeling of his first full throttle shift, as he's inevitably going to tell that he was sure that he was going to be pitched off sideways!

I find that helmets are like ski-boots. Different manufacturers seem to have different "fit". I have been happy with the fit of the Shoei and have ridden for years with my trusty RF 800. It's not too heavy and the wind noise is reasonable if you toss that little hold-open device from the left side. I have just acquired a RF 1000 and like it for the added venting, but like mentioned already, that does make it a little noisier. Every flip-front helmet I've tried was too noisy at hiway speed, for my taste.

I much prefer this possibility! No one has commented on the "whirring" noise when the clutch lever is pulled in.......