Murray

Every 5000kms or so two or three squirts used high tem bearing grease as used in wheel bearings commonly avalible at just about any auto shop. Unis at 105 000kms and counting.

There are some smaller wankels avalible than the Mazda's they tend to be used as the propulsion for slef launching gliders. Schemp Hirth sp? seem to be pretty keen on them. As Peugeot said when releasing its compressor scooter because its cool.

With carbon fibre cans it really depends on how well they are manufactured. Its usally the UV light that gets to them first. A cheap can where I life will start to look shabby after a couple of years (some 18months) a high end one such as the termis on my bike are 9 years and counting.

I'm kinda intrested in it I'll need a test ride first but an capable alrounder with long travel suspension in the sprit of the mutistrada for average roads and a big fuel tank will help augment the rather narrow focused of my current bikes. I don't look at these a serious off roaders but tourers without the penalty of serious bulk and compromised ground clearance .

Whats the track like has it got big open sweepers where mid coner stability comes to the fore. Or is it tight twisty and technical with lots of quick changes of direction and no real sweepers.

Srill dirt involed in Australia and the UK as far as I know too. However withthe right gearing these things are a hell of a lot of fun on a circuit prefably a tight technical one.

My only suggestion is the Big bore water cooled may run into class restrictions capacity vs water cooling. I know in the local thunderbike class you are allowed up to 1300cc aircooled but only 1000cc water cooled, the big bore is umm considerably bigger than that.

Don't bank on piont two its lasts slightly longer than mineral but certianly nowhere near whats claimed. I found the difference mainly from going from old to new oil rather than any magical properties reline shock proof has. This however is in a 1100 sport not a V11 others experinces may differ I'm back to mineral changing every 5000 kms.

Get a small set of stillsons or locking pliers and grab the head. Drill the head off remove caliper and remove the rest of the bolt. Dremmel a screwdriver slot in it and try and impact driver or drift it out.

From Guzzi? it won't be cheap maybe time to look for a Ghezzi Brian Quat D (search is your friend) depends on what the local athourities are like on Niose athough its highly like you could find some secound had stockers on E-bay or similar from somebody who has already done the leo-vince thing.

Pic doesn't work but I'm glad you are happy with your new steed. BTW I attempted to reply to your pm however it keeps saying you have disabled this function which makes it kind of tricky.

There is aguy in the states that does these for practically anything with a hollow axel. In the local Super motard series these things are madatory mainly because we use go kart tracks and the local club has decreed so. Unfortunaly I can't remeber the name of the contact but if you troll through a motard forum something should turn up we had to supply him a few basic dimensions and they turned up all done. basically there is a stanless threaded rod running though the axel with a couple of aluminium spacers to centralise it if you had acess to a lathe and were half way handy they wouldn't be hard to do.

Dunno think a Guzzi would work better on an open flowing circuit where the slow response of the egine and lack of power doesn't count against it so much and the rider could take adavantage of its high speed stablity.

There was a quick fix for the injected sports in the event of an overvoltage on the US Guzzi tech site about $5 in parts one of the voltage regulators for the electronics tended to die. As to the striaght cut gearboxes been weak I'm not so sure about that mine had a major rebuild early on as it had been full of water at aome stage (we suspect possibly at the facotry) but the gearbox has done around 80 000kms plus since with no drama's (we didn't replace fifth with helical cut gears). The inject bikes also have a cush drive rear which the carbed machines didn't after riding a couple of Daytona RS's which had the striaght cut gearbox withthe cush drive this makes a signifacant difference to its operation. When I bought my bike there was still a significant difference in price between the inject bikes and the carbed. Now if I was buying I would lean towards and injected one (prefably a Corsa) and talk to cliff nicely about fitting one of his ECU's. If you do decided to get a carbed machine try and find one with an after market exhaust and FCR flatsildes as these make a signifcant difference in how they go. Ideally you need one thats been ridden enough to be sorted as they had quiet a few more issues stock than the V11's the V11's were probally one of the first Guzzi's in that period you could simply just ride as is. The carbed 1100 sports were definatly not. The brakes on the carbed 1100 sport tend to go away after a couple of hard laps at the track too the injected ones are supposed to be better.

Buy a workshop manual and Guzziology and read to be honest if you can cope with oil changes you can probally cope with most stuff that ever comes up. Find a genric tech that is prepared to read the manuals and work on it if they are a Ducati type or Aprilia even better. If you get in serious trouble and decent set of tie down straps and a trailer will get it near a dealer.

Providing they are 180 degrees out it shouldn't be a drama the problem really occour when the pivioting axis of the uni joints don't line up with each other and start woring against each other. Dunno about the V11's but witht he 1100 sports all three grease nipples on the shaft could be lubed without having to endlessly rotate the shaft to get them. Something like front two on top and the rear on the bottom. The 1100 sports owners manual had a fairly extensive spiel about lining up the crossoes of the uni jionts I'd be surprised if the V11 wasn't the same.

I would say its got the "factory" race kit probally with a set of gutted exhausts. Who knoes they might actually be making the stock bikes faster =8O

Usally when talking about fork diameter the actual slider is measure on both RWU an USD forks rather than the casing. I'd be surprised of theya re radically different to the Ohlins I have some 48mm ohlins on a dirt bike dunno what the upper casing diameter is but they have been described as tree trunks.

Yes the tank is metal final, drive breather done right its not a bad thing providing its got a check valve to stop the oil comming out as well. Or you could use the take 24mm? spanner go for a long flog on a warmish day. Undo the fill plug and relive any preasure then screw it back on when it cools if the seals are any good there will be a slight negative preasure in the box before it heats up again.

No MGS-01 after probally a year of procrastinating I bit the bullet and ordered what I believe to be the last one from the factory athough they may be contiuned to be made to order. SSHHH be very very quiet the local Ducati shop has invited me to thier 1098 launch which may include a twist of the throttle on the road.

I'd buy a sorted one with 42k on the clock over a stocker with 3k

The 1100 inject isn't a 4valver. The riding postion is certianly more racy and the carbed bike lacked such civilties as a cush drive int he rear drive and helical cut gears it is very smash and grab. They don't make them like that anymore and thier is a good reason for that. Niether version ran particularly well from the factory the carbed version benifits greatly from and after market exhaust and if you are cashed up some FCR flat slides prefably with a quick action throttle. The injected version benifits from an after maket exhaust and Cliffs My15 or something similar. Take the time to set the suspension espcailly on the injected bike as once the wp's are dialed in with the lightwieght wheels they work very very well. The seat hieght is pretty high so if you're particularly vertically challenged it might not be for you. At the age they are getting the swing arm bearings and sterring head bearings are probally getting pretty iffy. Some carbed sports had drama's with the gearboxes. The carbed bikes also have a 18inch rear wheel which in some places is tricky to get more sporting rubber for them. Ideally you nail down a Corsa version which had a few extra's. The side stand touches down eventally on the left and foot peg on the right but only ever come across it at the track. The version pictured is the carbed on but it has a few extra's like deep V sumps manual fuel taps. They are pretty hard on fuel espcailly if you like to punt it along. The airbox has been removed and I suggest you remove the steering dampener as it servs no useful purpose on this bike. WP also make some heavier spring for the front forks if your like me and the static sags aren't quiet right stock. The side stand looks like it doesn't self retract anymore not sure why it has bar end mirrors the stock ones are quiet nice and pretty effective IMO. 5kUSD seems a little cheap to me but is certianly about right well used basic versions of this bike fetch that kind of money here but I think sports bike are more valued here than the US.

Shame your're not closer to me I keep looking at those things havn't quiet convinced myself its the bike I should buy. Wait till its run in and rev the tits off the thing Ducatis don't really work lugging maybe gear it down a bit as well chain drive have some advantages.

They'll never do it it will cost them too much money in lost revenue from speed camera's.

25mm is a fair hit I suggest you do it in 5mm steps or maybe 10 for the first one and then 5mm after that. The other thing to consider is removal of the steering dampener even on the lowest setting they have quiet an effect with relativly conservative geometry you can get away with it but I wouldn't do 25mm and remove the dampener. On my 1100 sport I've pull the forks 10mm and revmoved the dampener and it steers fairly well.