Murray

Can any of our Italian members can work out if this is legit or not? Bit hard to tell from the web translation.

Number 20 is consitant with the first 20 were brought to Australia, No1 was for sale a while ago but it had the full raceco treatment and the guy was making serious money nioses (MGS-01 type numbers). The Daytona Racings were also a dalrer shade of red and had the six way adjustable marzocchi's sp? that were latter found on the carbed sports rather than the three way on the standard daytona. The numbers provided look more like engine numbers rather than chassi numbers on the case in the vicinity of the dipstick. The other thing to do would be find the compliance plate. If they are fitted in the factory they will be rivieted to the headstock. If they were fitted in Australia by the importer than ended up anywhere as drilling the headstock tends to fill the bearings up with swarf. Have a look at the battery box and other odd places. If you get really really stuck ring Mario at Thunderbikes in Perth as he was the importer's head Mechanic at the time these were imported and might be able to shed some light on things.

Admitted we don't pay anthing per litrte like you do in the Scotland/UK. I run my 1100 sport on the BP equvalent with no problems. It seems to go further to the tank but that might be wishful thinking. The real test is when we pull the motor down (which is possible not hat far away) as the BP stuff has all sorts of wonderful claims like de coking motor preventing build up etc etc.

Oh this will be fun over the internet, there should be something about this in your owners manual. Basically the uni joint crosses should be lined up so when you look from one end of the shaft they both look like + + or X X but if they look like + X thats bad. During a rear tyre change sometimes the driveshaft splines can come apart as there is no rear axel to locate the final drive. If when they guy doing the tyre change puts it back together doesn't take the time to line up the joints on the spline it can introduce all sorts of intresting symptoms into the motor and gearbox. Worse on the older spine framed bikes with the shorter shaft it would do all sorts of ugly things to the ouput bearing of the gearbox over time. I don't know if its so critical on the new ones but basically the two uni's end up working against each other. The older bikes had about half a page dedicated to saying things like it is critical the uni crosses are lined up. Hopefull thats vaguely makes sense, I'd be changing the final drive and gear oil anyway.

When was the oil in the final drive and gearbox last changed maybe change it yourself just to be sure. On my 1100 sport with the old five speed smash and grab the shift quality certianly goes south when the oil goes off espcailly int he final drive and it usally goes at around 5000km's. Now when you said low oil was that the motor or the gearbox? techincally you should check the oil when hot rather than cold but thats probally of not much consequence. The other thing might be that the hydralic clutch is in need of a flush and bleed. I'd also check that the uni crosses are lined as per the manual espcailly if you have had a rear tyre changed recently. While we are checking simple obious stuff the linkages are all nice and tight?

As above prefably use a ring spanner. How tight basically wind it till it stops and then maybe a 1/16th of a turn. Basically !@#$ all nip it up its only there to stop the adjuster comming undone it doesn't secure it to the rocker arm.

The way the Griso and Breva run they would be lucky to rattle a house of cards apart thats sitting on the tank. I don't see why the norge will be anydifferent. They have messed with the bore and strke ratio to address the vibration which has been pretty sucessful IMO.

I'm assuming this is for your 1100 sport. Someone fitted one of these and then removed in a couple months latter I can't remeber why exactly I think it was because it made the clutch heavier. I find the cable clutch quiet manageable on my bike but I don't do a lot of heavy traffic riding.

A riding friend founf out that the self vulcanising plugs don't take to michlens a couple of years ago. Supposedly its because witht he advent of synthetic compounds like silica used in tyres the vulcanising process is unable to take to the tyre. Where as in a tyre with a natural rubber content the vulcanising process can take place and all is well. Where the plugs end up after they don't take tot he tyre .

Sounds like you might need a decent tune up a service TPS valve clearances and a new set of plugs often work wonders. might be also worth test the cylinder head temp sensor if they die the ECU uses a default setting which is not always the best.

wonder what they wiegh in comparison to the stockers. More to the piont they could make a 4.5 fairly easily athough would look fairly naff on an 1100 sport. I could see them working on a green v11 though!

I understand they have messed with the bire stroke ratio to achive lower vibration. From my short Griso ride there is certianly a lot less than the V11 IMO.

Anyone tried these cams with a big bore kit? ie 1134, what about running ligthened flywheels?

Probally lower ethonol content.

I assume its meters per kilogram similar to Newton meters, ft/Lb's Ie a distance against a mass in a ratio

Yes it is its German term I think its the equvilent of 0.98 of a hp. All the manufacturers jumped on it as it gave them a bigger number to print in thier sales brouchre. Intested in know more about the cam's as so far have only found mike rich's item's (yes I'm sure the germans make on my german is pretty well non exitant) curious how they would work with a 1134 kit. Is it a full house race cam on thats a bit lumpier for the street? I don't ride my bike in traffic much anymore anyway. Its down around 30PSI compression on each side after 100 000kms so while its not shagged and its not using oil yet it might time to start collecting some bits for around 40-50 000kms time.

Probally dreging up a bit of history but NM, I'm looking for engine mods the compression is starting to drop off on the 1100 sport primarly related to there are no real twisties here and I ride with people with other kinds of bikes so the Guzzi ends up working very hard most of the time. With a full termi race system and Klien FCR's my bike (carbed 1100 sport) makes around 73 hp at the rear wheel (about 80 000kms ago dunno what it is now). So 71hp is about right when you do go ahead with the engine work just make sure you go back to the same dyno. Somewhere some once claimed that Guzzi went to the striaght cut gearboxes with no cush drive for a while (early daytona's, 1100 sports) because you had a 3hp gain at the rear wheel I understand that the Ghezzi Brians run the helical cut box. I suggest you don't change it the straight cut one is a bit of a dog. The other thing is that with racing at the higher levels that an extra kilo will take 4hp to push the bike around the track at the same speed. So the easiest and cheapest way to may my bike go faster is if I get some more exercise and give up beer and pizza. Basically 71hp is about right for a rear wheel number for a stock 1100 motor. I'll go back to my searching now.

Cheers! its winter here I'll procrastinate a little longer. See what the compression and leakdown test says after 100 000km's, my enthusasim says bomb the old girl up my head says if I really want a hot rod Guzzi go buy a MGS-01. Damm my head spends some money sometimes.

My bank balance quivers in fear everytime I read these threads. Ok was looking at a few adds for BST carbon wheels they are claiming they are reliable for the road. Personally I would only go for the aluminium PVM's or OZ's I have the orginal 1100 sport wheels which didn't have a cush drive in the first place there is anothe manufacturer called Gale speed, Japanese I think anyone had anything to do with them? I would still prefere to keep it to the 4.5 inch width the Guzzi output just doesn't need anymore rubber and we are trying to improve the handling here not make it the same. Athough I understand Pauls wheels were custom made so perhaps its possible to get PVM to do a Guzzi 4.5 rear I suppose like everything for a price.

Spine frame works better when pushing on. No if buts or maybe's.

Re the brakes ont he street rod. HD finally bit the bullet and went to Brembo to get the brakes for this bike finally admitting they didn't have any idea about brakes . The still had to put a cover plate over the name though! Dunno the biggest thing that puts me of besides the RSV-R factory entry price is all the exposed aluminium especailly on the first Vrods. Complete and utter pain to keep in good condition one of my friend locally has one in a country like Australia he hardly rides it because of this. Can't begin to imagine what its like in a place it actually rains for that kind of money some kinda of clear paint wouldn't be that hard IMO.

Considering they only ever claim 90 at the crank at 8000 thats pretty good IMO is it corrected for the crank or RWHP?. My 1100 sport with full termi system and FCR flat slides only ever wheezes out 74ish at the rear wheel on the local dyno's athough there are some dodgy dynos around dyno jet ones been chief offenders.

Check out the price of parts before you get too carried away. They are not know as Kost Too Much for nothing. I looked at a couple of KTM single's when I was buying my motard but the local !@#$wit dealers and some horror stories of pistions lifting thier tops off and half size bearings which are only avalible from KTM for ludricous amounts of cash put me off. To the piont I was much happier to take a punt on an unknown quanity in a VOR which has turned out pretty good so far.

Of course you never do that with a Guzzi!! I'm looking for something a bit different from my 1100 sport, I don't want to shell out a big bucket full of cash to get an 1100 sport with better fuel ecomony and a gearbox that changes gears and doesn't sound like the breached of the guns of Navarone slamming shut when it does. I already have a VOR530 with a motard wheel kit. The think about Italian bikes is they inspire the sort of entusiam that gets someone off thier rear and makes bits for them for a price. Yeah I'm not sure but the way they rave about the motor. I will procrastinate about this quiet a while before doing anything anyway so Guzzi has a chance to get me so does Morini if they ever import them here.

Ah no its all helpful like I said no importer here anyway