Tom M

96K is impressive Doc. Maybe I am jumping the gun on this. I was thinking about it because my clutch seems to be engaging further out in the lever travel than it used to, even after bleeding. Scud, I've replaced two or three wet clutches in previous bikes due to slippage so I know the symptoms. Third gear up a steep hill was a good test for slipping too. You're probably right, I should just wait for it to slip then deal with it...

Even though I don't have any problems with my clutch at about 48k miles I'm wondering if I should consider preemptively replacing it over the winter. That said I have no idea how long these clutches typically last if they aren't abused. For those who have replaced their twin plate clutch, how many miles did you get out of it? How many of you have over 60k miles on your V11 with the stock clutch still working fine? TIA, Tom

We used to share Powercommander maps here by downloading them to the PCIII map thread in the fileshare section. Maybe someone should start a thread over there for sharing ECU maps? I would but I'm still using my PCIII for now.

Something else that you guys might want to consider while messing around down there is welding a nut to the back of the shock reservoir bracket for the bolt that comes through the pork chop. IMO it should have come from the factory that way. I had it done a few years ago after having a hard time getting a wrench on that nut so now it takes me about 10 seconds to move the reservoir out of the way for access to the clutch bleeder or starter connections.

Previous owner installed Ohlins with remote preload adjuster. I never rode with the stock Sachs so I can't offer a comparison.

The recommended spring swap is between the seat latch and the fast idle lever. I did it too.

PM sent

Hey Stick, Did you get your spacer issue sorted out? If not and if you have the black Marzocchi fork I'd be happy to let you have a look at mine since I'm not far from you and I have an '02. Tom

I've had Pilot Road 3 and Pirelli Angels on my LeMans, along with a lot of other sport-touring type tires. Both the Angels and the PR3s worked fine but the Michelins lasted longer for me so I decided to try the PR4s this year. I went with the 170/60 GT on the rear since I really prefer the 170 width over a 180. So far I have no complaints.

Thanks Scud. I expected the replacement parts to cost a lot more than that, probably because I've read too many threads on replacing the single plate clutches. Do any of the old parts need to be resurfaced?

Most of you guys have me beat by quite a bit. I'm only at 47k miles. Have any of you with the twin plate clutch had to replace it yet? I'm wondering how long I can expect mine to last. I'm also guessing that it won't be real inexpensive or fun to replace.

I've owned all three and I'd say both the Mistral and the Stucchi are both well built but the Mistral fits the best while the Stucchi needs tweaking. Unfortunately the FBF crossovers tend to crack after a while. I even added bracing to mine when it was new and it still cracked after about 20k miles. I found that all of the aftermarket crossovers were louder than the stock unit. Years ago someone posted cutaway pics of the Mistral, Stucchi, and FBF crossovers, and the Mistral had a relatively small (1 inch diameter?) crossover opening between the two pipes compared to much larger openings in the Stucchi and FBF. There were pics of a cut open stock crossover too and it is really just a baffle box. I think that the Mistral is the loudest of the bunch because the small crossover opening means most of each exhaust pulse will stay in one pipe & muffler instead of splitting more between both mufflers. Stucchi and FBF allow both mufflers to share more of each pulse with their larger crossover openings so they are a little more mellow. I suppose that's why the Stucchi/FBF are a little stronger at high rpms, the exhaust has less restriction beyond the crossover.

That sucks Bjorn. Checking the charging system is in section P of the workshop manual. Check the alternator by connecting your volt meter to the two yellow wires running to the alternator and set it to the AC scale. It should be putting out 15 volts at 1000 rpm, 40v at 3000, and 80v at 6000 rpm. If the alt is OK but the regulator isn't charging it probably needs to be replaced. Unfortunately the Ducati reg's aren't very reliable.

I've installed all three of the aftermarket crossovers mentioned here on my bike with MG Ti cans over the years. All three crossovers were noticeably better than stock. I have dyno plots that show how the torque dip that was there with the stock crossover at around 43k rpm was eliminated with the FBF crossover. I bought an FBF new and had a hanger/reinforcing braces welded on top and bottom before getting it ceramic coated to match the rest of my exhaust. It eventually cracked even with the added bracing. I attached a picture in case anyone is interested in what I tried. I installed the Stucchi after that. I remember that I did have to bend one of the pipes a little to get the cans to line up correctly. That was a PITA. After that it was good. I currently have a Mistral installed because I like the mid range grunt it added at the expense of some high rev power that I had with the Stucchi. I spend a lot more time below 6k rpm than above.

I'm sure that the numbers I posted are correct because those are what I installed in my wheels. Maybe others will fit but you'll be fine if you go with the ones that I listed.

Hi Gio, The rear wheel bearings are both 6204-2RSH 47mm dia x 14 wide x 20 bore The front wheel takes two different bearings for the pre-'03 Marzocchi forked bikes. 6205-2RS 52 dia x 15 wide x 25 bore 6304-2RS 52 dia x 15 wide x 20 bore Hope this helps, Tom

Here's a little video that shows both sides of the Dr John bike. It sounds great too! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tdLHhx7ltP0#t=50.327687

I didn't have to modify the Rizoma pegs or the Motobits parts, but I did have a couple bushings made to mount the pegs to the Motobits hanger. Here's the drawing for the bushing: Edit: this bushing is designed to work with the Rizoma PE606A folding footpeg adapter which works with a few different Rizoma footpegs. Also the Rizoma pegs came with 8mm mounting bolts. I drilled and tapped them to 10mm so they could be mounted with the Motobits 10mm hardware. PEG BUSHING.PDF

I'd say that's close enough. Mine was about 250mV the last time that I checked it. The TPS setting at idle is far more important IMO. I've had my mixture verified on a dyno so I know at least on my bike that 150mv setting with everything disconnected was not critical. Here's a thread where all of this was discussed years ago. TPS thread

TPS setup is pinned at the top of the FAQ. There used to be pictures but I guess they're gone. In the past I used to slip two safety pins down into the top of the TPS connector to measure the voltage but now I use the VDST software to verify throttle angle at idle. You might want to get Guzzidiag and use that to check your throttle angle.

Congrat's on getting your valve lash and TB balancing done. Don't give up yet! The next step is to check your throttle position sensor at idle. It's pretty easy. If it's a lot lower than 530mv then that could cause a lean mixture. In case you didn't click on the Micha Method that I referenced above, here's what works for me: Step one - Set your valves to world settings (.15mm/.006" intake, .2mm/.008" exhaust) Step two - Set your air bleed screws to open 1 full turn Step three - Synch throttle bodies at just off idle (around 1800 rpm) Step four - Set idle to 1100 using left idle screw adjuster only Step five - Set TPS to 3.6 degrees (530mV) Step six - Ensure idle trim is set to zero. This requires an AXEONE dealer tool or either VDST or GuzziDiag software.

"At the T one side goes to the diag plug and the other into the ECU." What diag plug? If I flip the ECU over on my bike and trace the wire bundle that's plugged into it it leads to a Y or T where one leg goes to the power commander and the other plugs into the wiring harness. Yours should be the same, but maybe it isn't. If it is you can disconnect the PC and plug the harness directly into the ECU to bypass the PC. Yes balancing the throttle bodies is that easy but I use the "Micha Method" and balance them at around 1800rpm. Others may do it differently.

It does seem very strange that someone would hard wire a Power Commander. Gottagetone, maybe you should take a harder look at the wiring. I believe there should be a Y harness coming out of the PC with two connectors; one plugs into the ECU and the other plugs into the stock wiring harness. The previous owner might have hidden the PC to harness connection well or maybe he wrapped it in tape?

FWIW here's how I set my valve lash without pulling the alternator cover or looking for the marks on the flywheel. - Raise the rear wheel (I use the factory work stand). - Remove both spark plugs and both rocker covers. - Roll the rear wheel forward by hand while shifting up to 6th gear. - Turn the engine over with the rear wheel until I see the intake valve on the right cylinder open then close. As soon as it closes that piston will be on the compression stroke. - Put a probe in that cylinder and slowly bump the rear wheel forward while letting the probe slip through your fingers as the piston ascends. When the piston goes past TDC you will feel the piston break contact with the probe. Bump the rear wheel slightly backward to find TDC. - Check and adjust lash on that cylinder as needed then run the rear wheel through a few rotations and recheck at TDC on the compression stroke. I use .006" (.15mm) intake/.008" (.20mm) exhaust. - Repeat for left side. (I checked my probe method against using a dial indicator for finding TDC and I found that I could easily come within .005" of true TDC with the probe, which is plenty close enough for this job.) Hope this helps, Tom

If your bike was running fine for a long time then suddenly started running poorly your PC map isn't the problem. Have you done the valve adjust/TPS check/Throttle body sync yet?