docc

I learned (from the learned) that beating a bearing out unevenly, especially repeatedly, can oval or expand the housing area. Ideally, a puller should be used. And the freeze/heat method to extract and install along with a clean, greased surface for the bearing to capture within. Just how easily did the new bearing slide in? Like "finger tight?" As in you can stick a finger in it and pull it back out?

Those fasteners don't come out willingly, typically requiring replacement. I suppose someone has been in there before you . . . Isn't there a "LocTite" type product specifically for anchoring that sort of bearing to race surface? It's the "Green," yes?

Have you checked directly with Stucchi Luigi? (Although I am not finding the V11 fairing on their website . . .O https://officinestucchi.it/en/

I saw @Kostarika gave a like to this image in @Baldini's "Show us your Tontis!" thread, and thought: Yeah! This what a Spine Raid is like . . . Can't wait!!

Is the sticker on the swingarm? When my Sport was crashed in 2003, the replacement swingarm came from Germany (A big thanks, again, to @Paul Minnaert for making that happen!), but it is devoid of all of the US Federal labels. I never thought to transfer them from my original swingarm. . . . thinking maybe a brief swingarm transplant . . .

Does it become an "antique" at some point in your state and the EPA thing becomes moot? (In Tennessee, that would be next year for your '97.)

Cheer up, y'all . . . https://www.motorkari.cz/clanky/clanky-divka-mesice/monika-moto-guzzi-stelvio-tt-13264.html?kid=9791

@doslemans just made a reservation and Walt told him two rooms left . . . There are other places around, of course.

The early Sport flyscreen is a fiberglass Stucchi. Four years ago, they were still available, with the mounts, from Stucchi in Italy (unpainted). https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/gallery/album/240-stucchi-fairing-hardware/

Message @Rolf Halvorsen from his profile: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/profile/10410-rolf-halvorsen/

Yeah, well, they got quite >JEM< quiet after the noise stopped . . . (Here, again, I had a short wheel bearing spacer, 112mm - not the correct 113mm, but those JEM SKF ate up in no time and left me stranded on failed new bearings.)

The SKF that failed me were not the SKF 6204-2RSH/C3 as @Grim sourced. (These had rather thin inner races as shown in the image posted): SKF 6204 2RSJEM (Made in Argentina) I understand the increased radial tolerance of the C3, and 2RS (two rubber seals), but do not know what the difference in the suffixes "H" and "JEM" might specify . . . Looks like "H" could mean case-hardened inner ring (good!) and the "J" : "stamped steel cage" (bad?) . . .

With the nut done up, I have 5mm exposed thread. I can't measure the bolt length in place, but I wouldn't want >zero< exposed threads if the bolt should be 165mm (rather than 160). My fastener source (McMaster-Carr) does not offer a "partially threaded" bolt in this specification with enough "pivot area" for this application . . .

Can't you measure your banana-bolt for length? It is the length of the shaft without the head, yes?

I was only saying 165mm from the Gutsibits description. From this image (assuming 165mm overall length, looks like about 150mm of smooth pivot shaft (no threads) . . . I would not want my swingarm and shock eye pivoting on exposed threads . . .

165 mm length, yes? Also, best if not fully threaded the entire length, but whatever it is called when there is a length of smooth "shaft" before the threads for the pivoting area of the shock and the two swingarm "bosses" . . .

Now you have me wondering if you have a banana-shaped mount bolt, do you have a banana-shaped swingarm . . . Will a straight 12mm bolt slide through the mounting bosses of the swingarm?

@Grim, I see Gutsibits in the UK has a used shock bolt: https://www.gutsibits.co.uk/pr/TheShop/index.php?q=98610616&f=d&Model=1&search=SEARCH They also show the spec: M12 x 165mm (12.9)

That's a good question! At one South'n SpineRaid we declared the TechSession would be to measure the offset of every SpineFrame we could sneak up on. Thinking they would all be "offset" to the right - they were all over the place! Then, the observation that the best set-up SpineFrames did not have their swingarms "offset." I saw that my painstaking laser method had my offset something like 0.030". I put that down to method error! So, now I wind the pivots in until they capture the swingarm bearing inner races with equal tension and equal depth ("Standoff" of the exposed threaded portion), then relieve the lateral tension on the bearing (proper freeplay). That last bit from our trusted member @gstallons who deals with these sorts of things on a daily basis.

(Left to right: Romanian Koyo C3 / Xhinese "National" bought as Federal Mogul / Argentinian SKF ):

I searched the Workshop Manual for a torque spec on those lock nuts, but no. It does illustrate measuring the standoff of the pivot pins before removal with a caliper to return them to that position. I have painstakingly done this in the past, even using a laser to align the front and rear. Yet found that the swingarm is basically centered in the frame side plates with a slight relief of any lateral load on the center of the bearing race. Good luck with your SKF. I also knew them to be "decent quality" before the last SKF (I'll ever buy) failed on me almost immediately. They lasted long enough to give me a 310 mile tow truck ride. I now know that my rear wheel bearing spacer was 112mm and not the correct 113mm, but my bearings had been going 15-20,000 miles. Not a couple hundred! Upon comparing to the KOYO, the inner race of the SKF looks very "underbuilt."

The shock mount bolt is 12.9 hardness. The swingarm lock nuts are 30mm (I see that I had to add a 30mm socket to my toolset).

Early Workshop Manual shows the drive side wheel bearing as 20X47X14. AFAIK, the later wheels used the exact same bearings. Source QUALITY bearings. I have settled on KOYO C3 after all of my rear axle bearing nightmares (internal spacer 1 mm too short!). I don't see the dimensions of the bolt fasteneing the lower shock eye to the swingarm, but the PN is GU98610616. (Perhaps we can find its specification with that PN.) With that bolt bent, do VERY CAREFULLY inspect the shock eye! They are prone to cracking/breaking!

Last question first: Nope, the swingarm lock nuts should lock the pivots in the correct positions that center the swingarm and provide proper freeplay for the swingarm bearings. With the swingarm out, check the condition of the swingarm bearings. The rotational play is normal. And additive. The V11 tire will roll some 2 1/2 inches/ 6 cm back and forth with the gearbox in gear. Pumping the cavity of the driveshaft housing with too much grease can create a sort of hydrolock (greasolock?) for the two shaft parts to slide together as the suspension compresses. Might even make it impossible to slide the two parts back together to assemble. Pretty sure I have the spec on that bearing, but will have to dig around a bit . . .

Heads-up, SpineRaiders: @Blueboarhound stayed at The Lodge at Tellico a few days ago. Walt told him there is another group at The Lodge during SSR XVII and there are three rooms left. Not sure about garage space, but we can generally get two or three Guzzis in one space. Pretty sure HondaScott is still riding down from upstate NY and would like to split a room. He offered to send the money up front. If anyone has a spot for him, PM me for contact info.