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Everything posted by docc
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Vent comes through the cap, overflow from above the cap seal.
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This is a well framed question. In clinical practice, I find the vast majority of conditions are "multicausal." This has been my experience with most issues with the Sport, as well. So, it is easy to say, "all of the above." (These charging parameters apply to the OEM "Spark500" which is the OdysseyPC545 AGM) . . . A simple series of voltage tests, with a quality DVOM, can be revealing. > Check the "float" voltage of your "trickle" charger. If it is not within the specified range (especially if it is the commonly low 13.16-13.2v), Odyssey states the battery will be damaged. > Check running charge voltage at "some rpm". If it is over 15volts, the regulator is cooking the battery. Ideally, the charge voltage should be 13.8-14.2v (above idle). > (Even newly purchased) batteries below 12.65volts@25ºC/77ºF should be "conditioned" (discharged and charged through several cycles at the correct AGM voltages and with over 6 amps until the voltage remains stable [12.65 - 12.84v full charge] over days to weeks.) Expecting our V11 charging system to bring a new, but rather dead, battery up to full state of charge is like asking your girlfriend in a G-string to scrape the ice off your windshield. She might do it once, but there is gonna be a price to pay . . . > Lots of the early V11 let the seat down onto the battery. In our local vernacular, that would squoze-out the insides. Usually this is visible inspecting the underside of the seat pan and the topside of the battery/battery strap. Solutions? Relieve the sharp and offending edges of the seat pan with a Dremel® or such and/or lower the battery basket under the subframe instead of on top.
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Not that I know jack about Jackals . . .
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Better to leave the tank vent open to atmosphere. Make sure the vacuum taps on the intakes are tightly capped or plugged, though. On V11 Sport, the inline one-way valve has been known to disorient, lock off the tank vent and cause "tank suck" (vacuum in the locked off tank that produces a swoooooosh when the cap is opened.)
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Learning, and practicing, correct AGM conditioning works wonders. Lots of folks don't and get along "just fine", but why ignore the manufacturers recommendations? Biggest two faux pas are using a low amperage "trickle" charger at a voltage below the AGM threshold, 13.5-13.8v (Odyssey states this is damaging), and letting the battery drop below 12.65 volts (85%) before charging it with a minimum of 6 amps to the 15 volt termination threshold. (voltages are at 25ºC/77ºF. Temperature correction charts for AGM are available and also displayed in that lengthy "conditioning" thread.)
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PM (Personal Messages) are in the envelop at the top right of the page. You can set notifications by clicking on your username, top right, and selecting "Account Settings" - > 'Notification Settings'
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wow, biesel, that 2012 Niel Peart interview . . . " . . . strength, power, speed, and the subtle control of time . . ." What an articulate, well spoken gentlemen. That statement (about musicianship while drumming/performing) strikes me as applicable to so much that we choose in life. Certainly motorcycling.
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An engineer for a major riding mower manufacturer tells a story about when they outsourced to China, the first container of mowers showed up with all the blades lying in the bottom of the crates. Turns out the Chinese noticed the six lines on the bolt heads (indicating Grade 8) and diligently cut the lines into the heads of the bolts they had on hand . . .
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I'm curious about the change from the textile pouch to the internal shell. Is the later shell as much of a "monkey paw trap" as the earlier version? (I once got hold of a couple OMRON High Current Relays in there and friends had to beat me unconscious so I would let go to get my hand out . . . )
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Unfortunately, there is no pulling specific gravity on the V11 AGM battery. Check the battery's date code and series of voltage tests to consider whether it may respond to "conditioning." Done properly, with correct charging voltages for the AGM, these can be remarkably resilient (speaking of the OEM Hawker Odyssey PC545):
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Metric hardness 8.8 is not SAE "Grade 8" as I recall . . .
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I guess those are, technically, not links but .pdf that get downloaded and displayed in Adobe Acrobat. If your build date and VIN are in that sequence, no amount of putzing around will fix it if the recall has not been performed. Pretty sure Piaggio has to reply to your inquiry about the recall status of your V11 if it is in that recall. Thanks for letting us know! Otherwise, addressing the shifter plate/springs and replacing that flywheel is really good, seasoned advice. (Oh! Look at who I get to call "seasoned" . . . . )
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That's a fair question. That is exactly how my Sport started behaving when the early gearbox recall faults became obvious. Were any of the Rosso Mandello in the early gearbox recall? (680 V11 through April 2001 and VIN ending 11M114435):
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I am often surprised to see members searching really old content. I often take a look at those threads as we have learned much, and have vastly better interface tools and understanding than we did in, say, 2003. I try to add links to more contemporary threads with current insight without altering the original threads. I do, however, often add notated edits to my own posts that turned out to be, well . . . less than totally correct. Or even completely misguided. I try to leave my unadulterated BS as is, since it is so obvious when docc is just bullshitting. (see above^ )
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I'm just so jealous, that's all. I mean, I have 8 cylinders, but I have to start my Sport and the car up at the same time . . .
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He and Tom would likely get along . . .
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I did manage to scoop a couple images of Pressureangle's Charger from his Gallery . . .
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Top, rear, right of the engine block inboard of the right cylinder.