docc

That wee rubber vent/overflow line (not the braided crankcase vent return) comes from the two nipples on the underside of the tank, one being the (right side) tank vent that is O-ringed to the fuel cap and the other (left) the tank overflow. Originally, the overflow had a tip-over (one way) valve, but mine is binned so it is actually open to atmosphere at the top and not sealed by the closed cap. Instead of my venting going through twenty feet ( I kid you not! ) of 1/2" fuel line to a couple charcoal canisters, mine is Y'd into the overflow, so technically that is also open to atmosphere above.

Someone recently told me that Piaggio-USA/NA told a prominent US dealer that the "big bikes" are going away and all the focus will be the V7, V9, V85 ranges. Something about getting staged for the importance of emerging Asian and Indian markets. I still think the V85 has the makings of a sweet LeMans (or Sport . . .) !

It is really not so much the abomination it appears to be in that view . . . Spooge trap!

Taking a cue from my GB500 crankcase vent and carb overflow traps, I built a drainable trap for the V11 tank vent/ overflow. GB: V11 Sport:

I had to watch the second video twice. Once to read the English subtitles and again to enjoy their dialect, facial expressions, and obvious passion. If, once upon a time, Dr. John Wittner influenced production Moto Guzzi models, and then Ghezzi & Brian, perhaps this is the season of the Guareschi influenced offering?

Is it worth watching? Where is it available for viewing?

Pretty cool trailer (for an upcoming documentary?) about the custom motorcycle scene and how it may influence the industry . . . (Thanks to Blueboarhound for this link . . . )

Probably okay with our learning what to expect from what we already have? Looks like most of us are getting very similar results. Sure, there are a lot of vagueries (US gallons vs Imperial gallons vs liters of fuel, miles vs km), as well as the two different V11 tank configurations . . . Yet, most seeming component failures ("fuel level sensor does not light the light") often come down to bad connection(s), wiring, or a burnt bulb. Great to have sources for compatible parts, unless the trouble, rather, is interpretation or connections.

If you can get "hi-test" (91-93 US) non-ethanol, then go for it. Otherwise, I have had excellent results with Shell Premium V-Power Nitro +. Even with diligent "Decent tuning" and stock map (some mods), my Sport pops and sputters more on "other" brands' premium fuel. See to your Decent Tune-up, and find some free-er flowing exhaust canisters that you love.

I've learned to be watching for a faint glow of the fuel level light at 135-140 miles. In my early tank (chin pad with external pump and filter), that would take a 4.1 or 4.2 US gallon fill and a safe 25 miles to get fuel. The light will go out on an up hill, in a left-hander, or harder on the throttle. If you wait until the light stops its faint glow, go-off-come-on dance and comes on full bright: you are >out (Yep, learned that the hard way . . .) I recently had this so tightly scheduled and had to detour my route, got caught behind slow moving traffic and she sputtered out at 165 miles. I felt it coming on and cut the motor off, coasted into a safe pull-off and performed a very deep "tip-slosh" to the left. Rode the last couple miles like nothing had happened.

How about it, LeMaynes? Getting things around?

Pretty sure Paul Minnaert has extensive experience on this fitment . . .

Same here: 35.5-36.5 miles/US gallon. I have measured 5.1 gallons from mine a couple times. Don't make me post proof!

So, yep. When I saturate the bottom of the left throttle body through the spring, the idle falters significantly. Throttle shaft is pretty wobbly, as well.

It occurred to me I can spray some solvent or cleaner on the underside of the shafts while its idling and see if the idle changes just like looking for any vacuum leak . . . Using the air screws to balance the idle has always seen mine a bout 1/4 off from each other, but this is a big change just lately. I mean, it is idling fine and runs great, just keeping an eye on things and wanting to know what to expect from the old girl.

Right? And what-the-hell-exactly is that gorgeous piece of kit?!?

Soooo . . . I learned sumpin' when my V11 driveshaft yolk came from together: "That ain't jus' janky. That is totally cob." (I'm telling you, Josh knows the difference.)

[i've moved my thread hijack about TPS to its own discussion based upon my results today:] TPS Setting, Importance & Sensitivity

After the good fortune to ride the Sport today (always a joy, but especially in mid-February here!), I was elated to find all of the popping, hiccups, and hesitations gone. The idle was stable without stutters or pops, no lurching or "misfires" moving away from a stop or rolling on out of corners. Gone, also, was the popping and crackling on deceleration. I had a great "long way to work" through the hills and hollers (45 miles). This outcome is especially satisfying as the only change I made was setting the TPS (Fully closed throttle plate, etc.) from 172 mv to 157 mv. Idle was still a little low for my tastes, so I checked the Throttle Body Balance (and because I promised Meinolf I would! ) I had opened and gently warmed the mercury chamber of my MotionPro "Balance Sticks" to above the dew point to (hopefully) evacuate moisture. The mercury columns rode up solid and clear of gaps. Balance was perfect at "some rpm" (2000-3000), but way off at idle. I brought he RH air bypass screw out 1 & 1/2 turns and the LH is about half that. The mercury settled out evenly and the idle rose and stabilized. I did not have to move the idle stop screw. (Disclaimer: I acknowledge that Meinolf has an expertly crafted map and method to defeat the air bypass entirely.) So, #1) I am impressed the TPS really is that sensitive. It must have been right on the break point where I could not stabilize the tune. I remember fussing and fussing with the Throttle Body Balance as it would jump back and forth suddenly trying to set the "white knob". No way I would skip the TPS setting in the Tune-up again (I skipped it twice/ 10,000 miles and it "told on me!" ) And #2) Why do my air bypass screws have to be so different from one another now? Over 100,000 miles/ 178.000 km and the throttle body shafts and seals are leaking air in that badly? Something with my valves/guides/ heads?

Inlet blow-off is a sure sign of throttle body imbalance/ out of tune. Have yourself a fine time loving on your V11 and perform the "Decent Tune-up." She will quite likely love you back for it! (Then we can go from there with other bits . . . )

I'm not so sure. I talked to a guy at the Wisconsin rally that said he was on flywheel number 3. The most he'd ever gotten out of one was 16K miles. "Steel is real?"

I had to laugh at the thought of that line of lawn-mower motored choppers plying the roadways.

I came across this by DaveB speaking of his Tenni: To ride it is to love it.

Hey! I resemble that remark!

I mean, they're just plugs, right? Should not have high torque or thread locker?