docc

". . . correctly torqued" is the operative term. How is this entry from the V11 Workshop Manual to be interpreted: "Rear wheel spindle screw (housing side) 120Nm"

"P.Roper" torque . . . So, this business of "torque the axle from the drive side" . . . Any basis as to why? Sure. You are just torquing the nut, not the whole assembly with the attendant drag involved if you are torquing the shaft. At least that makes sense to me.. Yet the V11 Workshop Manual torque page states: "rear wheel spindle screw (housing side) 120Nm" I've always read that as torquing the axle, not the nut. I never did it that way, but that's how I read it. After so many struggles with my reardrive(s), I'm trying to follow the directions, now. But I'm curious about this special instruction.

"P.Roper" torque . . . So, this business of "torque the axle from the drive side" . . . Any basis as to why?

How can you tell?

Yeah, 24mm seems like quite a lot, especially with 10mm on the front. I bet that has quickened her steering up terrifically! But you do have some adjustability both front and rear so a balance is approachable.

You might sort it just with tire selection. Setting the suspension sags is likely a good route, as well. How did you raise the rear that much? just cranking up the preload?

The weighted front helped plant my RedFrame Sport as well. I like the feel of a set Prirelli GT with 35/40 psi fr/rr That said, did did you drop the triples on the fork tubes? If so, how much?

Two might be a coincidence, but three definitely qualifies as an attraction. They really do draw admirers parked together! @Chuck . . . Looking forward to some splatter and drip-free miles!

Today was way chilly for a shakedown ride. Windchill of 33-35ºF at 60 mph. Went anyway. Just 65 miles interrupted by eggs&bacon then BBQ later. There was coffee involved . . . Back in the Hound'sToo'th, I performed a proper wipe down and pre-ride inspection (for next weekend's run-up around the lakes of mid-Kentucky). Looking to roll over 107,000 miles. No solvents required to wipe off the rear wheel!

Looking back, I see you have a bucket list of States, so likely you've ridden that area I posted already. I thought about taking it down, but how about, but if you get to southeast Ohio you can cross the Ohio River on a ferry from Fly, Ohio, to Sistersville West Virginia and angle across West (by God!) Virginia through the Kentucky horse country into Middle Tennessee. From here, we can send you northwest to cross the Mississippi on another ferry into Missouri where you can dip into the Ozarks region of northern Arkansas. The offer of pints still stands!

Coming southwest from New Hampshire, you'll likely want to head west first into eastern New York State (The Adirondacks and Finger Lake Region ,before angling south through eastern Pennsylvania (missing all the congestion of the Eastern Seaboard). From there you can meander the Appalachian Divide through Virginia/ North Carolina. Asheville, North Carolina has a fun downtown area with brewpubs and good food. Crossing into Tennessee on the Cherohala Skyway is a delight. The adopted home of the South'n Spine Raid is in Tellico Plains on the west side of the mountains: The Lodge at Tellico is a nice cluster of clean, well kept cabins. You'll hear a lot about "Riding the Dragon's Tail" (US Hwy 129 at Deal's Gap North Carolina/Tennessee). If it's a weekday, go for it, get the T-shirt! If on the weekend? I would avoid it. This route might bring you further south and may miss Ohio, but it's an option worth considering if you're into the "Best roads in the good ole USA." Keep us Tennessee boys in the know and we''ll get together for a pint around Nashville!

There's an idea! Maybe I ought to ride around with that strap on for thirty months!

Here is the thread (in) "How to . . ." Install Deformed Fuel Tank showing various methods including the pry bar method the ratchet strap method (that I use).

It can be done. With enough beer. And friends. And beer.

The "original" early Sport accessory fairing = Stucchi Luigi. LeMaynes got one from Europe (I can't recall where. Maybe direct from Stucchi?) and painted it silver. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?app=gallery&image=1888

ouch. Seems the RAM clutch approach is much more cost effective than that . . . (?)

Good on ya! Just to clarify, the fully closed "Baseline" TPS voltage, measured with a quality voltmeter is 157 mV (Meinolf's derivation). Guzzidiag can't perform that task and it helps mightily to use the Casper's TPS Breakout Harness. The idle TPS voltage of around 530mV is not critical. At that point, where ever it ends up is fine. Our respected friend. Meinolf, agrees: "The value after reconnecting the linkage doesn't have to be 525mV. It can be 500 or 400mV. The ECU will interpolate anyway (unless you follow below procedure, then your idle setting is exactly at a break point). Set it so the specific bike idles best." One of the least considered factors in the run quality of the V11 is the battery condition, high current relays, and clean/ solid/ treated electrical connections and ground (earthing) paths.

The only TPS setting that is important (critical!) is the Baseline with the throttle butterfly entirely closed and not fouled by the idle stop screw, high idle cam, throttle rod, or dirty throttle bore. This can only be done with a quality voltmeter looking for (150-)157 mV. Guzzidiag is not the correct interface to read TPS voltage. Once the entire ("Decent") Tune-up is complete, Step 6 is to put your idle where you, your V11, and the universe are in a a happy harmony. Many of us like a higher idle (1200-1400) rather than the spec'd 1050+/- 50. At this point it really doesn't matter what the idle TPS voltage is as long as the idle is high enough for said harmony. It is the Baseline (closed) TPS setting that indexes the TPS to the ECU mapping. Basic "Decent Tune-up" here, with links to various reference posts and threads.

Musically, though? *Boogies* like my Sport at about 4500-6000 rpm . . .

"Last car to pass, here I go!" This bass line and snare is just a classic!

Here is the most recent source, I believe: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20121&hl=+alloy%20+tank

There are a few threads here on "alloy tanks." Some of them are out of date. Search Alloy tank" in Advanced Search clicking on "replies" (not "update time") to see what is most recent. There have been some beautiful alloy V11 tanks made by true craftsmen.

Are we in a position to reference a limit to the "run-on torque", re-use limit, or any other measure for when the V11 locking axle nuts should be discarded?

"Run-on torque" . . . a procedure for the Wheels Off Maintenance Checklist . . . ????

So, there is a "no-go" threshhold for run-on torque? Worth checking on our axle nuts as they age . . . For now, I feel better with the nut fully seated. Used a bit of Klüber Staburags grease under and torqued the axle "from the drive side" as the manual prescribes.