docc

1) Scroll to the top of this page. 2) In the green shaded post, click on the blue text link for "digikey" 3) On their website, change quantity to 5 before ordering. (I see they are $4.37 each and recall that Digikey doesn't overcharge for shipping.)

Dear me and for goodness sake. I don't mean to be disrespectful, but at this point in our well developed knowledge base and reliable testing of these simple units, why would anyone choose to run cheap Chinese relays? Or even good relays that are under rated for the actual loads? Nothing against pyrodan. He's a good guy. Yet, there is no one in the world that has compiled more data and experience on V11 relays than the members of this forum. For those with the inclination, the rationale is all detailed in this thread with links to other testing. The High Current OMRON GH8E are, what, about $25US for all five?

Good question, that are the best relays, where can I buy them , and can we replace all of then with the same relay? GILLPUT, scroll to the top of any page in this thread and see the post tagged "Best Answer." You should find the answers to your good questions there.: 1) which relay, 2) where to get them, and 3) yes, use the same one in all five positions under the seat on the right-rear.

(Fourteenth) South'n Spine Raid Weekend after Labor Day (Sept. 7-9, 2018) Tellico Plains, Tenn., USA *Get there. Bring tools* Ian, check out the threads of previous South'n Spine Raids in (click on this link): Meetings, Clubs, and Events subforum.

Yeah, man, that is the result of the crankcase evaporation system on these big block Guzzi. That ester-based Motul will be great. Regular oil changes, perfecting the state of tune. All good things! That, and don't let her sit! Heat cycling ( riding her like you stole her!) is good! I mean, how far can the South'n Spine Raid be from anywhere in Virginia?

If this looses connectivity again, I'll build a new harness for the relays. I am totally not content with those connections. Otherwise, anyone running this LED unit should (IMO) epoxy the housing to the H4 adapter upon installation. It cannot be good to have it buzzing around getting looser and looser. The abrasion spread a fine, polymer powder throughout. At some point, I'll need to separate the lens from the reflector and clean it. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-H4-CREE-LED-Motorcycle-Headlight-Bulb-4000LM-40W-Hi-Lo-20W-Low-Beam-Conversion-Kit/32619929937.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.27.PpxLMx&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_10152_10065_10151_10130_10068_5010019_10136_10137_10157_10060_10138_10155_10062_10156_437_10154_10056_10055_10054_10059_303_100031_10099_10103_10102_10096_10147_10052_10053_10107_10050_10142_10051_10084_10083_5190020_10080_10082_10081_10178_10110_519_10111_10112_10113_10114_10183_10182_10185_10078_10079_10073_10123_142-10050,searchweb201603_2,ppcSwitch_5&btsid=e6d1f2b0-23fa-46f2-b8d1-f0ac63ba47f5&algo_expid=dca429f6-9754-4b9f-aaac-ef16f611ca97-3&algo_pvid=dca429f6-9754-4b9f-aaac-ef16f611ca97

Conspicuity in traffic: "Be seen!" Hardly any night riding. I got home late one night and still not sure what to think of 5000 Kelvin lighting to see the road ahead . . . I am inclined to say I cannot see the road as well even with the increased "lumens." There is the matter of "lux" . . .

The heat from the LED unit's fan is certainly removing more and more of the silver finish from the >back (This LED unit has gone 3,200 miles/ ~5.200 km, pretty much always on Hi-beam) I also found the H4 mount loose on the LED unit allowing vibration and rotation. Epoxied the cylindrical interface between the unit and the H4 adapter (JBWeld epoxy). The unit appears made to use adapters for different applications.

This LED headlamp went flinky (intermittent) today. My separately wired/ separate relay lo-beam came through for me. Found a loose relay connection that is my doing. Yet, I also found the LED unit loosening in its H4 mount.

I felt the EBC HH were hard on my original front rotors. Since then, I have committed myself to the OEM Brembo. The rear is FF (soft), I believe.

Welcome, GILPUTT! You're in the right place to be sorting a V11 Moto Guzzi! As Kostarika suggested, start with a Tune-up for the running issues: Decent Tune-up (pinned at the top of Technical Topics) To reply to a specific post, click on "Quote" in that post and the original post will re-display above your reply. Enjoy your LeMans! Riding weather IS coming to Wisconsin. No, really!

So, big V-Twins do pump their crankcase a bit, yes? Mineral grade oils vaporize much more than true "synthetics" (Grade 5, full ester base oils), but those are rare and hard to come by. Most likely your V11 has been slogging Grade 1 or 2 oils and vaporizing a lot into the evaporation/recovery system. Lots of sitting-up (storage), damp environs (seashore), riding in rain, and low rpm running (also too common!) all contribute to the oil vapor evaporation accumulation. My take: not abnormal/nothing "broken", but there are some things that you can do to make a difference: 1) Use true full synthetic, "Grade 5" base motor oil like Redline 20w-50, or BradPenn?, Amsoil? maybe Shaefer? 2) Store your V11 in a temperature controlled dry place, ride it often, and "like you stole it!" (*Tony's Italian Tune-up*) 3) See to your Decent Tune-up and maintain your battery and charging system well. Why that? Because a good fire burns off lots of those extra, nasty things.

Yep, this can be pretty common, for several reasons. How many miles on your V11, Ian?

fotoguzzi is the real-deal (the "black bar" is a camera mount, no?):

Anybody tells you that your V11 donk started out in a tractor, bet lots of beer otherwise!

Designed by different engineers. Ing. Guilio Carcano has been emphatic (as was Umberto Todero) that the Mulo engine had naught to do with the V700 motorcycle engine they designed, outside of the V configuration.

The link has an entire gallery of images of this thing. And a misguided, misleading reference to the engine. Still, pretty funky piece of kit!

Sorry docc, I assumed that you had shown the yellow protractor gauge in your photo because that was the angle you had measured on the spring. (And your comment "This is totally bad".) Looking again, maybe that was the spring from the first run. My apologies, gentlemen. This is a misunderstanding that I created trying to make a lighthearted post about badass VooDoo, referring to Chuck and Scud's efforts. As Scud says, I copied those two photos from their posts for a visual reference to their work. The fact that I spelled badass : "bad @$$", just made my message harder to understand. Sorry, again, for the confusion.

I'm getting 20º included angle with my rather crude method . . .

So . . . *nope!* . . . this is NOT where the Moto Guzzi V-Twin motorcycle engine came from. But, it is a mighty cool machine! http://motos-of-war.ru/en/motorcycles/moto-guzzi-mulo-meccanico/

So, you would put an early tank on your late model V11 and plumb in the external filter and pump? Or put a later tank on your early V11 and have two pumps and two filters? Or remove the early external pump/filter, and build new lines for the late model tank?

Thanks. Starting to look like a little V11 brothel you're running there . . .

Image not visible?

This is totally bad-@$$ VooDoo:

Grease them in to protect against rust, come on, you can do it..,. :-) Now, that is good advice! Here is my metal protectant of choice for this sort of thing: