docc

Every time I pull the rear wheel, I clean and re-grease the toothed drive hub and the drive from the bevel box with Bel-Ray Waterproof Grease. Liberally, I might add. Copiously, even. It appears that I am likely over-greasing and the excess makes its way to my wheel (and tire ) eventually. (Having struggled to achieve a sealed rear drive, this splatter does not smell, at all, like gearoil. Pretty sure this is grease.)

Stand by for a Drive Hub Grease thread . . . [edit: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20324&p=230792]

With a new OEM Ducati Energia regulator in hand, I am looking to learn the testing procedures, then apply same to the existing regulator before removing it. (???)

Yet, this does not smell like gearoil (you can see where I sampled it). And the splatter doesn't cover the wheel all the way 'round. Could I be over-greasing the drive hub and it finally slings out after a few hundred miles?

BAW-HAW-Haaaaw!!!! (my cry-baby voice . . .)

Oops- my misread. I’ve always torqued the V11 in Nm.

Hm . . . I'm getting 78.45Nm . . .

Right? I was a little concerned about the conspicuous absence of hammers until I saw the (half empty!) screwdriver on the toolbox . . .

I have the same unit. Looks like a normal tail light to the naked eye, flashes several times upon braking. Under ten bucks. Several of the guys I regularly ride with have given it good reviews and ordered them for their bikes.

Ah! Interesting. I got the same bulb and never noticed that flicker. Makes sense on the shutter speed.

Thanks for taking us along, Dave! (What's with the epileptic ail light?)

I was thinking you have a Norton?

Vincati! Snarky! You're an established local Brit-bike guy, so, you don't have to park the RedFrame across the street? Drink Peroni at a table by yourself?

Thank you for peeking out the hamn dammer. Somehow, it helps life make more sense . . . And, if it is going to be multiple choice, "titanium" will be the correct response 83.476% of the time.

That's a beautiful thing, all around.

The black painted engines might be known to leak even more commonly from the timing chest. I put up with my Bell Housing leak(s) for many years. Even carrying CRC Electronics Cleaner to rinse off the oily mess on rides. I did get weary of people staring and pointing, though . . .

I had to google "36-18" and got: "Admissibility of evidence relating to use of genetic markers." Pretty sure that will link me to the Lear jet. Probably the Bentley, too . . .

Looking into hi-jacking a Lear jet and stealing a Bentley to come out and buy you a beer, Scud. Coming back through Indiana . . .

I am happy to report my add-on grounding junction block is clean, refitted, and treated with Caig DeOxit. Not surprisingly, the light still flickers at idle after riding. Showing ~14.2at idle, the light goes out at 14.35v (about 3,000 rpm). So the charging certainly looks adequate. Looking likely that the case is: fully charged battery exceeding the charging output. (The "don't worry about it" case.). Yet, Guzzi2Go, the "special" regulator failure case: can that be tested?

More that the 1999-2001 stresses Relay#1. But, yes, then the Headlight Relay has no power: no headlight, brake light, instrument illumination, tachometer, or charging. Relay#2 is already stressed on its own, as is #5 on all V11.

"Livin' Easy" refers specifically to Relay #1.

Keep us posted on the flicker. FWIW, leaving an AGM on a trickle charger is considered *ungood*. Especially the common trickle chargers that do not have AGM specific voltages (13.5-13.8v). Simple enough (with a quality voltmeter) to see what your trickler is putting out. Most common trickle chargers are below the 13.2v threshold (ungood/damaging to an AGM). Otherwise, be aware of manufacturer recommendations for charging the Odyssey AGM (if that's what you're using: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18838&p=208786

Since you have a Roper plate, there is one gasket above it and another below. Separate from the actual (lower) sump gasket. Your leaks look quite suspicious for timing cover. You might get a hex key on those fasteners and see if you can tighten it down judiciously (don't overtorque and use use a "star pattern"). I am in the "don't put anything in your oil that clogs things up" camp. That's the kind of thing someone might do to a leaky F150 right before they foist it off on an unsuspecting buyer. So, yeah, clean it up again and put an even spray of foot powder along the side seams of the timing chest. The powder should be so thick as to obscure the surfaces entirely (the spray stuff works best. Put it on thickly as seen in this Bell Housing Weep image):

Dad-gum! Watch yer eyes!

Of course, you will, once again, ply us with implausible images of luscious vistas and delicious pies . . . (At this, late day in the game, I would not risk flipping my ECU and stressing the wiring and connectors into an inverted existence. I have verified that my seat pan does not press down upon the wiring or ECU connector.)