docc

I didn't think of the back and forth DOF. But is this axis a problem? The engine pulses in another plane, and the wear we see on the splines surely comes from the radial rattle. Back and forth would be axial. Anyhow, I see a good chance that holding in the clutch at stops in 1st gear or at other occasions isn't really that bad, maybe more weal than woe even. Really bad for the clutch and the splines is probably being hard on the throttle at lower revs, let's say below 3 or maybe 4k. And then, Docc's V11 has seen some miles, why should the parts look as new? The usual life span of a motorcycle is below 50.000, everything above is a bonus for the owner and lost profit for the manufacturer. See it this way. I expected my flywheel to look much worse at 99,000 miles. I did not expect the input hub to look so bad, but no one expected it to come completely loose, either. (That was certainly my increasing idle rattle noise.) While I am not one to run the Sport below 4,000 RPM, I am admittedly often hard on the throttle and downshifting/ rev-matching, then hard on it right back up again. "Hell-on-wheels!" . . . and tires . . . and brakes . . . and clutches . . .

I found this post and image by craigsinclair. Am I getting warmer? http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19621&p=215047 and craigsinclair's *update* : http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19621&p=218685

Discussion moved here for clarity of both threads and better enjoyment by all of the enthusiastic participants and readers.

Interesting discussion on what makes noise and might cause wear in a Guzzi drivetrain. Follow it and join in here: 24/7 V11 - Guzzi clutch noise and wear

Good advice. Where are the specifications to modify the pushrod?

Glad to see Jerry is still making friends like the truly golden (retriever?) guy he is!

With my recent clutch failure, the time has come to address oil leaks between the back of the engine and front of the gearbox. Quite obviously, I've been putting this off for a good long time . . . yet, a *dry* clutch should be dryer than the driest wine. Dry like the 'dry heat' of Arizona. Or The Sahara. Dry as moon dust. Mine looks more like a Chimichanga. I understand the two seals at the gearbox front (main seal and push-rod seal), and the engine rear main seal. I appreciate Pete's advice that the lowest two bolts on the rear of the engine should be thread sealed. And the cam bung to be sealed as well. The gasket under the crankcase vent should be no problem at all: (P.42/#15 - 12 00 7600) What about the simple gasket (P.31/#39) under the "Complete Flange" (P.31/#40 - 12 01 1400) Can that be easily renewed? [it appears to cradle the rear main crank bearing?]

"I think it just wanted to know that somebody cares." Is this a corollary to the adage: "Sometimes, an Italian woman will stab you for no reason at all."

I remember a member that modified a pushrod. For this application?. . . that is to say, I can't recall who, or where to look for what to modify . . . So much better to source the correct part (applicable pushrod), if we can divine that . . .

Scud, is this the RAM? http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193&products_id=1698

I have eighteen part numbers to hunt down, not including those to address my persistent, pesky oil leak(s).

>click on image"zoom"copy imagepaste

@Scud: Fortunately, the gearbox input shaft shows no damage or wear to the splines or the threads where the hub screws on. @Andy: input hub teeth: 22mm, seal "nose" 10mm BTW, the friction discs measure ~7.36 mm (new= ~8.13), but three of the friction surfaces were loose, and two very loose. . . . 'round these-here parts, we'uns call that *slap-wore-out!*

I was fortunate to have Josh-the-Improvisor here and we created a flywheel lock, but it might be a nice touch for the torquing upon reassembly. The intermediate plate had to be pried out after dragging goop out of the flywheel teeth, yet the loose input hub was definitely holding the clutch from full engagement. This is, not at all, what I expected to find. But, *expectations* can often lead one astray . . . Such a treat to have the correct tools. Thanks, again, man!

The guy with the darkest Scura in the universe needs to ask these things?

Apparently this "retention washer" for the input hub was never adequately engaged into the nut notch to effect adequate retention. The manual does not mention folding a tab in, but evidently this is how the keyed retention washer is to be used.

So, the flywheel surely shows significant wear, but that isn't what was making the extra noise: There was certainly enough worn friction material and just enough oil leak to gum up the movement of the plates, especially the intermediate: And these unfortunate surfaces to consider: The noise was very likely the loose input hub. We found it completely loose and rattling around. The retention washer had failed to retain the input hub on the gearbox input shaft and it had backed all the way off. I guess it just didn't have quite enough room to fall off. Many thanks to both Andy York and Josh for the incomparable assistance.

The images in Post#3 and the "muddy mess" in Post#11 are from Tomchri. The mess is one of the friction surfaces of a clutch plate. Image in Post#9 is the input hub on my Sport that I've held the clutch in at stops all these years. This gearbox was replaced under warranty at 27,000 mils, so has about 76,500 miles/ 123.000 km. [i added captions to the images.]

I was just trying to wrap my mind around the *three* special tools in the Workshop Manual to R&R the clutch. Gonna stop wrenching for tonight and apply biscuits&bacon in the morning at Lieper's Fork . . . Still looking to lay eyes on the world's worst V11 flywheel teeth . . . At this point, Tomchri's clutch failure is not what I am seeing . . . Tomchri's detached friction material