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@gstallons - thanks, my friend! I've been planning on this thread for quite some time. After reading this forum since 2003, and fussing with several V11, I really believe the battery condition is both critical for optimum performance and often rather neglected. One of the three or four most important aspects of a happy V11! @footgoose - I share your question about charging output. I mean, the voltage is straightforward to measure, and the AGM will not be entirely well charged if the regulator is below 14.2v. But what kind of amperage is being put out by the V11 charging system? The chart in the Workshop Manual states 13 amps at 1200 rpm rising to 26.5 amps at 6,000 rpm. I do not understand if that amperage is regulated in any way depending on the battery's state of charge. Others here know these things far better than I . . . I have run some heated gear with some commensurate learning curve. The system did not sustain both my Gerbings jacket (77 watts) and gloves (22 watts). If I had a do-over, I would go just with a vest. That said, when I'm going to take the Sport out with the heated jacket, I condition the PC545 before by discharging it and bringing it up to a full SOC (state of charge). My theory is that the charging system can dedicate to keeping me warm and not have to do double duty also trying to bring the battery up to a full SOC. This has been working so far and I am hopeful that my regulator and stator are benefiting from the reduced load. One of the take-aways has been, if your AGM is below 12.65v, do a proper discharge/charge at correct voltage/amperage before expecting the V11 to do it for you. Instead of "maintenance free" (they're not!), perhaps we could more accurately say only, "Never add water."

AFAIK, all frame and suspension geometry is unchanged 2002-2004. And, +1, 5mm fork change is noticeable; something to be done along with setting sags and selecting springs.

Also, here is Odyssey's official statement on premature failure in "Custom" V-twin motorcycles. Now, I think we can presume they're talking low revving Harley Davidsons and such, but this is worth noting: "ODYSSEY Short Service Life in Custom V-Twin Motorcycles Issue – This notice provides helpful information to the designer, manufacturer, assembler, dealer and bike owner that may have experienced a short service life with the ODYSSEY® Drycell Battery model PC 545MJ installed in Custom V-Twin motorcycles. The increasing popularity of the custom V-twin motorcycle with its big inch engine and high power starting requirement has introduced a new operational issue. New ODYSSEY batteries and other brands initially provide good starting power, but in a short time of use have no or poor starting power and appear to have prematurely failed. Factory analysis of warranty returned batteries indicate these batteries have not failed and do not have factory defects. Batteries with this type of performance are at low charge levels only! Cause - The custom bike requires 2 ½ times the starting power of stock HD engines, but have the same size battery and same 32 amp charging system. The custom bike is generally a short mileage in-town rider, with insufficient driving mileage to recharge the battery. V-twin charging systems only develop enough power to run the motorcycle until engine rpm is above 2,000, when excess power is diverted to charge the battery. Full charged ODYSSEY battery voltage is 12.85 volts. ODYSSEY Batteries with less than 12.40 volts cannot reliably start big inch engines. Solution – ODYSSEY Batteries are a military grade design and mechanically indestructible. Military design prevents shorted cells and vibration damage. They provide deep-cycle reserve and high starting power. Use a 12V, 6A (OMAX-6A-1B) or 12V, 12A (OMAX-12A-1B) Ultimizer charger with dealer or owner installed quick disconnect harness to maintain ODYSSEY at full charge for maximum performance and life. Always connect the charger to battery first, then plug into the AC wall socket. Always unplug from the AC wall socket before disconnecting from battery. Charger will not over-charge as it switchs to storage charge after recharging. Consistent use of the Ultimizer charger will assure trouble free starting power, with 4-8 years of ODYSSEY service life. Help - For ODYSSEY technical support call Bruce Essig at 660-429-7506."

EnerSys (Odyssey) is adamant that these batteries will not charge without applying a minimum of 6 amps, and at 14.2-14.7 volts (15 volt limit). @gstallons: check out their official procedure/ step 1 to recover a deeply discharged AGM (jumper to a healthy battery!): http://www.odysseybattery.com/documents/ProceduretorecoverdeeplydischargedODYSSEY.pdf @Scud: Odyssey publishes a list of approved chargers. BatteryMINDer is on the list and are good quality products. I almost bought one and choked on the $161US I'm still looking for a link to that document, but the BatteryMINDer they list is 12248-AA-S3 EDIT: Here's the list of approved chargers [updated link 13 June, 2017]: http://www.odysseybattery.com/documents/ODYSSEY_approved_12V_chargers.pdf

As mentioned in another thread ('03 V11 runs like crap), a weak battery on a V11 can be a source of frustration. This is a recurring theme and can lead to a literal "wild goose chase" of various other issues when, really, the battery needs proper conditioning. So, three things: 1) Don't let your AGM fall below 12.65 volts before "conditioning" it. (First, discharge with the lights on for a few minutes, then charge as in Step 3.) 2) Don't expect your V11's electrical system to take care of this for you. It may not run well and the charging system will get pissed off. 3) Be certain your charge and float voltages are correct for the AGM requirement: 14.2-14.7v to charge (not to exceed 15v) with a minimum of 6 amps, and 13.5-13.8v to "float"/ "trickle" > LESS voltage on trickle/float is NOT okay. Odyssey states that floating under 13.2 damages the battery: "Note, however, that the charge voltage should not be dropped below 13.2V as that will cause the battery grids to corrode faster, thereby shortening the battery life."

Aw, shucks . . . I've been thinking about this a lot lately. I'm so, so happy with the way my Sport is running. But it hasn't always been that way and remember well the frustration. At one point, I was considering learning shop-grade cursing in Italian. Seriously, though, marginal battery condition is (IMHO) a source of constant, niggly trouble with these V11. I've been conducting some further investigation on the charging requirements of the AGM battery and it has been a real education. Don't give up on that battery until we can sort out its conditioning.

There are those who have had Delrin bushings made and pressed in. Should last forever.

That's dedication!

Stateside, we stay jealous for the ALFA. Looking for a Spider Veloce, I made my way through a Merkur (Ford Sierra) XR4Ti (weird, I know) and a '98 Ford SVT Contour/Mondeo (sleeper quick) to this ///M roadster which I've had almost 10 years. In order to stay in The Club, I submit our long-lost/teenager-crashed V70 T5 Estate that I didn't want to like at first, but grew to admire. And, in fact, do miss. But, for now, it is the Wrangler doing yeoman's duty!

So, this is revealing. I've never understood why anyone would own a Prius or a Toyota minivan. Now I know: "Polar Blue Lotus Elise." It all makes sense to me now!

I would be most curious where the CO fuel trim is (pre)set; often as low as minus 30. Sure, it's an "arbitrary scale," but moving tit to zero might make a surprising difference, especially at the low throttle openings. For certain, the TPS has been baselined? (Again, apologies for not totally rereading the thread)

A nice looking BMW K series? Sorry, not possible! Wait, but the motor is shaped almost exactly like your Volvo!

Gottagetone, I remember struggling with a similar low rpm hiccup that was really annoying in parking lot maneuvers - you know, the kind where everyone is looking at you . . . I found several issues over time, and I'm sure you are continuing to make things right. An rpm specific stumble could be from a TPS that is "bad" at that point. I could not find my bad TPS with the mV function, but when I connected a quality Ohm meter, I could see a consistent "jump" as I slowly opened and closed the TPS. New (HD) TPS, and much improved immediately! I've lost track of everything you've done already, so forgive me if I repeat: Have you zeroed the CO Fuel Trim? Inspected the 30 amp main fuse for heat damage?

YMMV. I had to take the brass holder off to get my Sport running right. There must be more than one way to skin a cat.. Right? True, that. Looking back, my Sport had several dynamic issues that affected its run quality adversely. Routinely repeating the *regular* tune-up has always been helpful. The faulty 30amp fuse, glitchy TPS, and bad coil wire connection took a lot of fettling to find and sort.

YMMV. I had to take the brass holder off to get my Sport running right.

Thanks, Phil, for posting that link here, and the great write-up and photos on grooming the V11 shift mechanism! Well done, man!

Have you zero'd the CO fuel trim already? That, and zero-ethanol fuel, made some of the biggest difference for me. There were other issues . . . Nasty Hiccup thread

I routinely fill the Sport with non-ethanol fuel and today noticed that the "premium" is now 90 AKI (RON+MON divided by 2), down a bit from what it was (91?). Sorry to see the "octane rating" (AKI) go down, but I can immediately tell the difference when I have to run ethanol laced fuel (pop-burp-hiccup).

"double chocolate bock" . . . . that's what goes in the V11 rear drive, yeah?

I love my factory shop stand, and having engaged it from both sides (the left being more *natural*), I most often lift mine from the right, with the stand handle dropping forward.

I've met czakky -he ain't no wuss, no way. period.

Those "hand fairings" would have felt pretty spectacular riding today!!

OMG: Guzzis, Volvos, diesels, tube amps . . . hammers . . . forum of the afflicted!