docc

Also, searching (diligently, I assure you, Sir!) for the correct glass mandrel to expand the "bell mouths" to a proper 50mm . . . (I was hoping the "OLD LEGHUMPER" would do it, just for bragging rights.)

Stand by . . .

It is always *an event* when the V11 is apart and waiting for parts . . . things happen. There's no stopping it! Preparing for a ride (five days out ) to the Barber Vintage Festival, I figured on installing my "spare" (incorrect) throttle cable. See the other threads for that cock-up. . . . while performing, Beta testing, and revising the Tank Off Maintenance Checklist. So, with the Sport poised like a willing *subject* in The La-BOR-atory, and the airbox lid at hand I couldn't ignore the findings of PhilA and the observations of Greg Field. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18909&p=100986 I have also retrieved the stowed electrical lead for the original electrical petcock (Fuse 8) to route forward a "Systems are GO" (Go_Winkie) indicator light, per Kiwi_Roy's encouragement. My, my . . . Wish me luck. Send beer . . .

How cool is that! Welcome to The States, Orson! Ashville is a great spot for curvy motorcycle roads (and craft beer)! I would say you're in striking distance to a South'n Spine Raid, but for some inexplicable reason no one from North Carolina has ever made it in the eleven years.

guzzidiag does display "air pressure" which I suppose you could look at over a series of checks to see if it moves about with normal changes in atmospheric pressure. I didn't look at the units - probably not PSI! Maybe kilopascals . . .

Determined to change out this degrading throttle cable before riding to Barber in five days, I pulled the tank and brought out the replacement cable I bought back in July. I remember the part numbers being a problem back in 2008, but figured that was all cleared up now. Not so! The original cable for the early Sports (01117530 with straight connection) is superseded by 01117590 which, apparently, fits the later V11 but has a 90˚ angle coming off the throttle control that does not suit the early configuration. Instead (according to MGCycle), order 01117560. Which I have used before, but forgot

Here's what MGCycle says: "throttle cable V11 Sport. [01117530] If you order this cable, you will get a cable numbered 01117590. The original 01117530 cable is no longer available, but is shown in the photo for reference. The new 01117590 cable requires tapping of throttle assembly to allow installation. This is a retro-fit substitution from Guzzi. For a better substitute, order throttle cable number 01117560, which is a better fit for 1999-2001 V11 Sport models."

NERTS!! 01117590 is NOT the correct cable for an early V11!! This just happened AGAIN ordering from (another dealer). There remains an uncorrected glitch in the parts system. (not the fault of the dealers). Correct cable on top:

Sounds good! Trailers hardly ever come back empty from Barber . . .

Correct, the left is the drain; for unwanted water around the filler, yes, but also any fuel spill from refueling. I would think this especially warrants routing to below the (hot) engine and exhaust. Interesting that the non-US spec bikes simply have an open nipple on the right (confirmation from our world community?). I entirely forgot about the charcoal canisters being the destination for that routing after the one-way valve. This makes me consider opening the right nipple and stop fussing with Y-ing it into the drain. So, very likely, rossi46's UK Guzzi simply has an open nipple? Makes sense: no charcoal fuel evaporation recovery debacle. For spray solvent, I prefer CRC Electronics Cleaner. Not so caustic as throttle body, carb, or (especially) brake cleaner - evaps quickly and cleanly and is kind(er) to painted surfaces. I just wonder if the exposed vent nipple may be more susceptible to clogging under the tank than if it has a bit of hose pushed on it?

Both the nipples facing down and forward under the tank had no hoses on them? Originally they would have had ~1/4" lines routed to the left behind the starter. Make sure the internal drain and vent from under the cap are clear through the nipples; compressed air would likely work, although a spray solvent might be necessary if they've clogged.

"the domed rubber piece that is on the rear of the filler cap" Yeah, that's it. Breaks the seal between the tank and the vent. I wouldn't call it a permanent solution; more of a "field expedient." That tract leads to a nipple under the tank (the other is for the fuel overflow, also visible under the filler cap). Factory stock, these two tank nipples drop separate vent hoses to below and behind the sump, the tank vent through a small plastic disc valve about an inch in diameter. They are prone to failure as is the tubing prone to clogging. Part of the Tank Off Maintenance Checklist . . . . ">As the tank goes back on, re-secure the tank vent and overflow on the underside of the tank. This is fiddly and the connections may benefit from using small wire clamps that will still allow a press fit. There have been many modifications reported on this routing, but simply be certain your tank vent and overflow route below the engine and exhaust not onto them, even if they are co-joined into one drain tube. The factory fitting has a one way valve (small plastic disc) that can become disoriented or obstructed and allow a vacuum to build in the tank. Make sure the valve is oriented for vertical flow and secured. If your tank has suction when you open the filler cap, the venting needs to be addressed. One quick-fix is to open the cap and remove the small rubber seal on the right rear of the cap. I'm not saying it's a good idea, but it has been used as a quick fix."

Watch the paddock for Bob's MGS-01 and we'll be at Ace Corner Saturday afternoon. Planning on hitting the museum Sunday morning. you can text my cell once we're there!

What year is your V11? (consider adding that to your profile) The early 1999-2002 tanks with chin pad and external filter have a vent with a one way valve under the tank. The valve can become disoriented or the lines clogged. (easy fix). Some remove the valve altogether. Quick fix is to remove the small rubber washer/seal visible when the filler cap is open. Either of the last two methods may allow fuel to spill if the bike becomes horizontal. I'm not sure if the later, pump-inside, tanks still have the same venting system?

guzzidiag link is in this thread You'll need three cables. 1) FIAT-Lancia adapter cable (Andoer 3 pin > OBD II); 2) FTDI chipped OBD II > USB; 3) Caspers TPS breakout harness The rest is easy(ish)!

I've wanted to do-up a round-fin Guzzi/Morgan forever. The perfect gentleman's kit.

You first!

Good eye! I couldn't find anything on it that isn't knackered .

Managed to take in Steve'n'Seagulls as they performed in Nashville last week. What great fun! They carried off a really high energy, up-tempo show. No question , they looked to be having the time of their lives on stage! Thanks, Jaap, for the post!

Yup - just around the corner from me. OK, maybe 100 corners, because I know some very twisty roads between my house and Wildomar. I didn't notice that it was an automatic. You never read about anyone having any trouble at all with the automatic trannies on the V11. They must be very reliable. Your next breaker bike? I'd like to sign on for the clutch and flywheel!

Just two weeks away, October 9-11, this is always a great event. This year, look for the MGS-01 Bob will be campaigning! Sumptuous!

1800. for a 2 plate clutch and a few other bits? where is this? Looks like SoCAl just north of SanDiego. Don't get your hopes up on the clutch parts . . . ad says "transmission: automatic"

First, the factory grounding location is to the gearbox inboard of the seat latch release, but not bolted under the seat release. If found under the seat latch itself, it should be moved to the gearbox. Also, sounds like your beauty would benefit from a complete tune up. Start with valve adjustment and fresh plugs. Download guzzidiag and get the three cables you need to set the TPS and interface with the ECU. This will allow you to zero the CO fuel trim and set the idle opening of the throttle. You'll need a way to balance the throttle bodies (Hg sticks/manometer/ "TwinMax" etc.). Clean your air bypass screws and turn them out a full turn. Defaulting your idle speed to the high side generally makes the lumpy cam happier at idle.

I was more embarrassed than injured/ and the folks in the BMW were very kind and understanding. It was a (known to the locals) awful decreasing radius, uphill, off-camber corner with no visibility. I can understanding passing on the commitment to refit a damaged bike. It was Pete Roper who said (astutely, as usual), "The V11 doesn't crash well." I put in about four months refitting my crash with parts coming from all over the world including a swingarm from Germany that Paul Minneart was instrumental in helping me get to the US. As it was, Guzzi owed me a complete gearbox (just prior to the early gearbox recall) which saved the project from ruin (no way I could spring $3800 on just that part). Members of this forum were immensely generous helping me with all the other parts and I kept very busy in the shop. Glad to have her, still! Best fortunes in hunting down your next Guzzi!