docc

Changing your TPS will not change the timing, only the place on the fueling map. You could try raising the baseline within the range (I recall its +/- 30 mV). That said, I tried that on my Sport to quell the pinging and found it still ran best at the 165 mV baseline. Monkeying with the sensor gap would be messy. Probably better to use Guzzidiag for the tuning. Are you certain the CO is either zeroed in the ECU? No doubt that kind of carbon in the cylinder could definitely cause pre-ignition issues.

Sounds like you're in good hands!

Ken, Be sure to have your dealer address the other leak sources while the bike's apart: the cam plug and the two bolts. Some would say it's also a good time for a new gearbox input shaft seal and a new seal for the clutch actuation shaft. Thanks for posting your results. This remains on my "To Do" list . . .

+1 PC545

Now ya got me feelin' sorry for ya.

It is common that they are not adjusted well on the right throttle body. Both a cable and a cam. Easy though - we can do this!

Left Coast Floridians . . .

So . . . I am certainly swayed by the video (without understanding a word of the spoken language). There are some really nice bits on this bike - the swingarm for sure, and I'm not sure the reaction rod actually clears the big rear tire at all (mm, maybe?) Really, it is only the tail section that seems awkward, but provides a great place to video the exhaust while the bike is in action! It is possible the liqui moly calendar in the background has affected my judgement . . .

So, Lawson, what was the solution?

I am relieved to know that there are only 40 things that contribute to oil consumption.

Haha - there was some talk of your Guzzi work at our local riders' spot over coffee and breakfast: "What do you think Bjorn will take all to pieces next?" "Maybe he and his brother will make a new frame!" "He could turn it into a Ghezzi-Brian. Those Dutch do things like that." Glad to hear you are riding now!!

Maybe the SeaFoam dislodged a goof-load of crap and fresh oil and plugs will self correct it over the next 4,000 miles? (wishful thinking, I know . . .) FWIW, I would not let my sump get down a full quart before topping up!

ugh. So, worn valve guides? Does your valve adjustment need changing frequently or more than 0.001?

A quart in 2300 probably isn't too much of a concern depending on how much high rpm running and how many heat cycles (short rides less than 10 miles). Risky to ask, but what weight/type oil and change intervals? How old are those plugs (the one on the right looks justifiably funky!)?

Looks like a weapon! Should be a kicking good time!

moved here for better responses. No one has ever had any success getting their gearbox to shift better with those adjustments. Only if it upshifts more easily than downshift (or other way round) should the eccentric need to be centered. There are some simple things to try first: Change gearoil, bleed the clutch fluid and be sure there is full travel in the clutch lever. Clean and lubricate the foot shift lever and be sure it is not striking the frame sideplate on the downshift.

My 2000 Sport did this from new. Only after a fork rebuild did I find the right cartridge was not seated fully into the bottom of the fork. It fits down into a hex recess and I suppose mine did not get dropped in before it was tightened on assembly causing the damper to move about a quarter inch before engaging causing a *clack* over every bump. For years I thought it was the bounce in the steering damper. Once seated, it was pretty amazing to have a noise like that go away after it had always been there. I also found the suspension less unsettled setting up for corners and coming out since that 1/4" of play was gone from the rebound side. This is actually pretty easy to check: With the bike on a shop stand and the engine supported with a jack, back the damping adjusters all the way out noting their positions, release the fork caps being mindful of the spring tension. Grasp each damper and force it up and down: there should be notable damping without any undamped play.

If the PO was using mineral oil instead of synthetic, it is much more prone to heat vaporization. Also, a lighter oil would promote this in the event it was not on a steady diet of 20W-50. Rding in the rain and high rpm riding also increase the vapor fraction. That said, these engines do use their crankcase ventilation system! Oil in the airbox is common and largely normal. Maybe you would consider a catch can that you could monitor the vent for a while without risking a mess or a wet tire.

I would think the most likely issue is that a PO let the oil level get low enough and accelerated hard enough to starve the oil pick-up.

What does it look like in the battery tray? Much smaller? Still use the same tie down strap?

What kind of money are we talking for the Li ion?

I think about riding the V11 down to the Florida Left Coast. Drove the ///M roadster there a couple years ago. Last trip : flew into TPA (the looong way!), rented a Dodge Challenger R/T (red, of course!). Makes Tellico Plains and the Cherohala feel like heaven! Glad you got in a good ride, czakky! Now you know why the South'n Spine Raid keeps going back there! :race: