docc

battery charger?

Sheeez - you retired guys! For me, three weeks apart is back-to-back!

Yeah: no more summer South'n Spine Raids. One heat stroke is enough!

Being the second rider coming up, it is hard to ignore the words. I would be curious about even a "catch phrase" from the end of the dialog. I can only fill in what has been said to me in English, like, "Man, I just got out of the hot tub and had a nice single malt. Did you you get lost or have a break-down?" or: "All of the women in the lodge have been satisfied, but it's good you have finally got here. Maybe you could iron their shirts." or even: "Oh, man, it's OK, Nurburgring is like that - you could be stuck behind a tour bus for lap after lap . . ."

Isn't it amazing the pics we can get with our *phone* ? Makes me jealous . . last ride on the Sport: 26 miles. ( The one before that was 500 miles for Barber Vintage Festival, so I'm not complaining - just jealous!)

Don't these V11 just love this cool, dense air? Great scenery! So, a hundred mile ride? More? (combined the two posts to the one thread)

I thought this was the Regularly Scheduled Program . . . The connecter for the fuel level sensor unplugs, but does not unscrew. There are two small lines that attach to two nipples under the tank for vent and overflow. If they have no lines on them, consider routing them to a "Y" and a line out under the bike behind the engine as gstallons had posted. Your petcock has been converted from an electrical to a manual (a good thing), but the knob can be hard to get completely closed by hand. I'm not sayin' you'll need six foot ChannelLocks, but I know a guy that has 'em if you need 'em . . . If you can see the K&N just by lifting the tank, your air box lid has been modified. There are several ways to do that, but intake from the top of the box makes it more important that none of the heat shielding on the underside of the tank is loose and can block air flow.

Yeah, it's dizzying the array of RedLine product. You won't be disappointed in what you have there. The "ShockProof" series are, as I understand The numbers are for illustration only, they could be off. But that is the concept as I recall. Plus, they have a lovely milkshake appearance; the LW being blue, the HW: red (or "pink"). I suspect the RL product you have looks like "oil" (amber ?), although we've used some RL gearoil in the BMW cars that looks red and clear like automatic transmission fluid.

Hey, that's a neat idea. I usually start the new Spine Raid thread in mid-winter just cause I can't stand waiting. Yet, we'll probably try for September again and look for a north-south route that's not so hard on the eyes. I'll try and remember the mid-week suggestion, but watch for the thread and we'll discuss it then to see who might be up for it. Looking forward to seeing you again!

HA, yeah - after you guys blew by me on the Cherohala I noticed there wasn't any braking going on at all!

I don't think I could tip mine up enough without disconnecting the fuel delivery system. Once it's lifted to that point, might as well take it off - all that you would be lacking is a good place to set it.

Since I just serviced my air filter, I'll not likely install the CG-9002 until next year. Just seeing it, though, and having studied the dimensions, it will certainly be a better fit and won't get the slight 'crumple' of the other filter. True what gstallons says about the tank - you'll have it off more than once. It's not a horrible job, but is fiddly enough that air filters might not get serviced as they should. Too many times I've put mine back on and realized, "Aw, I forget to take care of the _____________ while the tank was off. Which is the reason for the Tank Off Maintenance Checklist in FAQ: trying to make the most of the effort!

So, the friction material thickness on the new EBC HH is about 4.5 mm. The remaining material thickness on the Volar is 2mm (at 3,700 miles). I'm just going to throw all this data out and let the chips fall. I'm as hard on brakes as I am on tires, so "YMMV." This is my ninth set of rear pads: mostly Brembo, but also EBC and Galfer. The Brembo have always given me the best service, but I was really hard on the last EBC experimenting with "trail braking" using the rear brake. Conclusion there: bad idea. Average service life - 10,553 miles/ 17000 Km (eight pad sets). The EBC instructions say to replace the pads when they are "2mm or one eighth inch" but 1/8" is 3.2 mm and the new pads are only 4.5mm. I'd be replacing pads every 5,000 miles! Looks like these Volar would go another 1500-1800 miles for me, but not to the next tire change, so I'll mount the EBC/HH. I really don't like how aggressive they are for the rear brake and would prefer the Brembo pads or, perhaps a GG compound.

Whew, yeah that is a lot of money (more than my Ohlins). Seems there are some other options for the rear shock replacement in addition to the rebuild that Hubert mentions. There is a pretty recent thread where the options are detailed. I'll have a search for it later this evening unless you have found it by then. Getting your front and rear springs specified for your weight will transform the handling.

While you have good access to the Sachs, see if you can adjust the pre-load for your weight. Not ideal with all the body work and tank off, but I'll bet you could bring the pre-load up a bit.

989 posts and you may be the first to actually "Post a pic of your V11 - No words" (Nice Sport. I like the black cam covers!)

Good going, Keith! I linked this thread in the checklist. PM me anything else you think I should include or amend, especially for the later style tanks.

There was no labeling on the pads or packaging except for the logo. I'll do some thickness measurements to see how much pad has really been used. I typically change the rear pads every 10-12,000 miles.

I believe they would fit in the mounts, but the Veglia speedo requires the two angle gear drives and a different cable.

I figured for $10 they were worth a shot. The EBC will be four times that with the shipping and I know they won't last four times as long. Still, even after a careful cleaning and piston check, all the pad material had the inboard piston sticking again already. One of those "you get what you pay for" things, yeah? One of the morals is "you can't ignore the piston movement on the rear brake." It won't take long and one piston (likely the inboard, or right) will start to hang and the wear on the opposite pad is accelerated.

This is still an absolute favorite: Moto Guzzi Fall Colors by fotoguzzi. Love the "soundtrack" of the V11. The music's nice, too!

After just 3700 miles, these 'affordable' pads look pretty thin to me. I'm not convinced they'll make it to the next tire change, even with my short intervals. That said, even fresh pads always look suspiciously thin. Ordered some EBC HH from MG Cycle. I suppose I'll keep the 'cheapies' for "back-up."

I agree .... the Rosso Mandello. the greenie, the silver and the black, the Scura and the Corsa's, the Tenni's, the Ballabio's and even the LeMans .... pretty much all one of the best V11's produced! (did I miss any?) Heh-heh . . . a guy can't get away with much around here. Seriously, though, this has a nice combination of features. There are certainly Coppa and Ballabio owners who would prefer the closer fitting lamp assembly.

Definitely a later model ("long") frame and later model tank, although with the headlamp and instruments fork mounted as on the earlier versions . . .

You should be really jazzed! That's one of the best V11 produced. What's that Bogart line from Casablanca, " . . . I think this is the beginning of a beautiful friendship."