docc

A few answers: 1) Reaction rods and bushings are sold as an assembly. Others have made bushings to press fit using Delrin if a machine shop will make them to fit for you. 2) I have not seen PC545 with plate, but you will not need the plate. 3 and 4) The middle relay allows the bike to run with the side stand down. It is easy to replace. Also, inspect the electrical connection to the Neutral Switch on the left side of the gearbox. Make sure it is tight and sealed from moisture.

After effectively hijacking your thread right from the start, I went looking for some links to original question: Footpeg relocation in FAQ by Ryland3210 who is, incidentally, MotraTech Forward foot position in Tech Topics started by Ryland and goes 8 pages with a lot of posting from other members. Buell Lightning Foot Pegs in Tech Topics started by edge Motobits vs. Motratech is an older thread brought back by hoosier just a few months back. Hopefully, some other members will chime in with their experiences!

It was all pretty disappointing. They welded it back and I refinished the cosmetics. They sent it elsewhere to get the bearing out and even those folks tore up the inside making another new leak. In good faith, I even paid the guys. Andy York finally put it all straight for me. Moral of the story: the rear drive "shroud" or "flange" is fragile for certain. earemike, you think anyone has had a go at the seals or bearings in your drive?

Mine was broken along that trailing edge (much worse than yours) by a "mechanic" who had heated the rear drive up and dropped it on a block to release the inside bearing. Apparently, this is a common technique on the older style rear drives that did not have so large a flange.

I keep forgetting what the right nipple is. One is the overflow and one is the tank vapor vent. Both can be "T-eed" together if the carbon canister suction system has been removed. Refitting the tank bolt is a function of tank deformation. Be careful to only remove the tank when it is (near) empty. While there is much debate about fuel additives, ethanol *could* be problematic for these tanks. *Nudge*nudge*wink*wink*know*what*I*mean?* Oh, for goodness sake: avoid the ethanol if you can! ("Know what I mean . . .?")

What will become even more important than the controls will be matching the fork and shock springs to your weight. Even at an (extra-fluffy) five-eightish-nine, my Sport's springs were dialed in for some welter-weight Italian test rider in race leathers. "Set your sag."

I tried to get BelRay, one of my favored brands, to address these specifications once. No response, though. I really like the RedLine grease. I wish I could tell you it meets all of those specs (but I couldn't say). When we've discussed this in the past, the prevailing view came to getting some kind of grease into those u-joints from time to time is a good idea. My last shot at it was a bugger. Even with the needle method, the front eluded me. I finally got a fitting on it but not before it doubled my vocabulary. Post what you find about the specification. I don't think anyone has ever gotten it nailed down.

That sounds just like mine . . . Does the clutch now slip and there is still a smell?

This from a guy who's Ireland Ride should have the word "pub" in it!

YO! That is chamberlin's Norge!!

Don't count on "remapping" or absolutely needing a PC. Many would say the factory mapping was more fit for the free flowing exhaust to begin with. Do plan on a complete, meticulous tune-up. You're gonna love the way this changes the V11 character!

I would start with the canisters you like the looks of. They all sound great next to the stock LaFranconi cans and weigh probably five pounds less per side. Then you can add the crossover of your choice. Good thread there by Greg Field on cross-over comparisons. No reason to change the headpipes.

What keeps turning and turning is the grip shaft that the end weight threads into. So, yes, it unscrews, but you'll have to anchor the tube to unscrew the weight. Applying some heat to where they join might be helpful (after you cut off the left grip and remove the throttle pipe). You might also get some penetrating oil to work into the threads at that same junction (the threads are all the way at the end of the tube).

I guess I am not using the most correct terminology there: "oiled cotton gauze" it is! I still have the 33-2682 in mine, but the CG9002 definitely looks like it will be better fit. Other than the slight dimensional difference, they do look similar, but the pleats go across instead of lengthwise. Thanks for the clarification! (edited the original post)

That's brilliant! I love the wedding story! Closest we came at my (wife's) Italian wedding on the Lovely Jersey Shore was my my bother's blessing (which he voiced just before juggling axes and machetes over the parquet dance floor): "The secret to a good life is a wet mustache. How you get it is your business!" Of the sizable crowd, there were a good number of the old Italian guys slapping their thighs . . . And, Jaap, I know you're not fond if Heineken (who is?), but I've never seen anything outside the nasty green bottle . I would give the bock a try if only I could.

I didn't see any costs on the website, but they say you should use their service if you notice: " . . . Poor idle, loss of performance, hesitation, hard starting, detonation, surging or misfiring." Sounds like a thread title on V11LeMans.com

Also worth mentioning that the Italian Tune-up Plug Chop should be done on fresh plugs. Yet with a four stroke, injected motor on modern fuels you won't likely see much unless something is way out of kilter.

It seems to me that a valve there would only make things worse. Let's hope a good quality "fuel injection style" clamp will make a difference. Nothing wrong with hoping! Otherwise, it's crabbing the frame and good questions about whether to replace everything ("once and done"), or leave things alone if they are not the problem ("If it ain't broke, don't fix it").

It was a revelation to me that there is a substantial gap around the vent pipe the "pokes through" the top of the clutch housing. If the clamp is loose or the attached hose is breaking down, the crankcase vented oil vapors will drain back down the hose and run through the bell (clutch) housing and out the lower weep hole. fugazzi: what did you use for a replacement hose - MG part or one of the alternatives (heater hose)?

For a comprehensive listing of possible leaks at the clutch housing, this still has to be the best-ever post on this topic by Pete Roper in the thread "Who's Smug Now?" (With thread names like that, is there some wonder why searching the forums can be frustrating?

czakky's plugs:

That looks clean. I suppose it's worth a new clamp. Pete details the other leak sources from the back of the engine besides the rear main seal. Unfortunately, they all require removing the gearbox to inspect and address.

The thread Bell Housing Leak has links to an excellent post by Pete Roper with great emphasis on the why and how of the crankcase vent being the likely culprit.

Good news for those worrying about the rear main seal: After tightening the crankcase vent, this is how the weep hole area looks after about 100 miles;

It says V11, but appears to be more of a tricked-out Griso: