docc

That's quite a compliment! Although we've ridden into North Carolina almost every year and no V11 from there has ever joined us . . . Best of luck making a regular thing people can look forward to. It really is too cool to get a bunch of these bikes together. The sounds alone are fantastic!

Funny you should say that . . . I went to USF (University of Sun &Fun) and have folks in Clearwater. Beer . . . . mmmmmmm! I am vague on that "ground wire", though. Looking up under the starter, can you see a wire connected to the gearbox (neutral switch)? Does the ground come from the regulator case (finned box above the oil cooler)? Oil leak is likely the crankcase vent return. Look with a light on top of the back of the motor (behind the left cylinder above the intake tract) for a big (5/8") hose connection. If it's all funky and nasty, you need a new return line.

The "How To . . ." section is for known and established procedures and explanations. If you have a question or would like to have a discussion about issues with your V11, post a new thread in Technical Topics. It will give your thread the most viewing and interaction. Sure, the "Search function" for your concern could give you the answer, but new discussion is always welcome. Thanks for your cooperation!

I used to label my relays, but took to putting the labels on the bike itself. I also prefer to label the "middle relay" as the Neutral Relay since it is actuated by the Neutral Switch and NOT the sidestand switch.

Hang in there, we'll get through this. Likely it's more than one thing. The Run Switch gets power two ways: through the Sidestand Switch directly when the stand is up (sounds like that part is working), and 2) the Neutral Switch in the left gearbox side plate activates the Middle Relay so the bike will run with the stand down while in neutral. So, "no run" in neutral/ no neutral light: check the connection to the neutral switch under the starter (clean, tighten, dielectric grease in the boot. Otherwise, the Neutral Switch can be removed (easier with the starter out) cleaned with a contact/electrical cleaner, tested for function (pressing the ball in should give continuity on an Ohm meter) or replaced if faulty. The "no starter engagement" can be the Clutch Switch at the lever or it's connectors under the left side of the tank. Put your ear close to the clutch lever and pull it gently. You should here a faint *click* - otherwise, spray the lever-switch interface with a contact cleaner being careful to protect the tank's paint. You can remove the lever for better cleaning, but be ready to catch the tiny ball bearing from the lever housing. If the infamous bullet connectors are the trouble, try thumbing the starter button with the clutch lever in, while rotating the bars lock to lock. If the starter kicks in, it is surely the connectors under the left side of the tank forward along the frame. Clean, crimp, seal. The Starter (forward/first) Relay or it's base connections could also be flinky. Have an assistant attempt the starting drill while you wiggle the relay in its base (it as, for sure, a 5-pin relay?). Most notable, though, you said the headlamp is on when the key is off? I assume you're stopping that by disconnecting the battery? I would definitely begin with inspecting the Ignition Switch for broken wires or some really obvious fault. It is not hard to remove. I looked earlier for Kiwi_Roy's thread on that. but struck out. Search "replies" for ignition switch and I'll do some searching from here also.

LowRyter, glad to hear you're okay and back to OK. Really enjoyed your company and pretty amazing, I think, a flat-lander could launch off into those roads, at that pace, on a V11 Sport! Well done!! I know we teased you a lot about the ticket, but they are always unfortunate. Plead for "online traffic school!" Hope to see you at Barber's Vintage Festival . . .

First thing: Remove the front Starter Relay and replace with a known good one, maybe from the middle position assuming it is also 5 pin. The headlamp should go out, but the bike will have to be started with the stand up if there is no middle relay. Although, hmmmm, headlight on while the key is off sounds like you better take the ingnition switch out for inspection.

So, the "closed" aspect is regarding the coil? The relay is energized when the circuit to the coil is closed. I get that (If you think i got that ) While the Starter Relay is passing current in the N/O state, it is only energizing the coil of the Headlamp Relay, right? So, no significant current there. The energized Headlamp Relay is passing current all the time in the N/C state which would be the higher of the relay ratings, yes? In the OMRON: 20 amps. That would certainly seem adequate as the fuse on that circuit is 15 amps. Mouser shows the "same" relay rated 20/30 amps. Could that be OMRON's high-current version (RH)? And wouldn't it be the penultimate V11 relay (or just overkill)?

Keith, just curious then, how often do you change oil?

Forgive my layman's questions, but the Starter Relay is "normally open" and the Headlamp relay is "normally closed?"

That's likely the connection. Can be very frustrating. Pins or sewing needles will likely give better contact than the paper clips. otherwise: Breakout Harness

The black le mans advertised is a Nero Corsa, nice too. Ah, I see that it is! The gold forks should have been a clue to me . . .

The OMRON spec sheets make me dizzy. The relays seem to have dual current ratings: 10/20, 20/35. What does it mean?? K_Roy??

I see this black '04 LeMans and this '03 Rosso Corsa, but not sure I see a Nero Corsa

It is the Heim Joint: 8mm, right hand thread, male Measurements: 55mm overall length, 8mm opening, with 25mm length of threaded 8mm x 1.25 shaft Amazon - 4 for $25 Ebay LH/RH set $14.99 When I took delivery of my replacement Shindy, it came with a new Heim joints. So, if your Bitubo is "crunchy" your replacement will likely have new joints.

Impromptu roadside Relay Replacement Tech Session (photo courtesy of Rufus):

And so it is: my local O'Reillys man took the time to look through the book for a match. Here's what we found: 1993-1997 Chrysler or GM accessory relay, 30 amp, made in China, 12-14 US dollars in 2013 money. Tax here in Tennessee adds almost 10%, so a set of five is $65.50. K_Roy, which OMRON are you using, the G8HN-1C2T-R-DC12?

Meters have different ranges. My Triplett's lowest is 200mV which is not high enough, so I use the 2 V range. The clips won't affect the reading. Just make sure you have a good connection and you start with the throttle plate completely closed (linkage disconnected, right idle screw backed out fully, no contact from the high idle mechanism).

As it turns out, the Tech Sessions at this year's Ninth South'n Spine Raid largely surrounded relays and fuses. Sure there was that late night attempt to fashion a cross-over shim from a Dos Equis bottle cap, but that was really more just late night entertainment. Much discussion has transpired over the years about the V11 relays. Some things are for sure: the original Siemans are not reliable (although there are forum members still running them with no trouble); the front two relays have the most stress; the relay bases, or sockets, can be a source of trouble. I used all my spares to get another V11 re-started and its headlamps/charging circuits back working and am actively looking for new spares. Over the years and 87,000 miles I have run (original) small Siemans, large Siemans, small and large Tycos, Bosch, GEI, and OMRON. While neither the Bosch or GEI gave me any trouble, I was impressed by the comparison posted by forum member Ryland3210 which compares the internals of the GEI and OMRON and discusses the importance of "suppression." [As of 2017: Best V11 Relays: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19755&p=216605] So, Number One: All of us should be carrying spare relays. Probably 3 or 4, but minimum of 2. Number Two: I would really like some technical discussion about the electrical specifications and cross referenced availability. Is there any hope to walk into a Chrysler dealership and come out with a replacement relay? ( like, maybe: OMRON G8H-UA-007001/ Chrysler 3628A23D) ? ?

Man, it occurred to me that if you were there with us, you would have had extra, caring hands unloading your Coppa. Ramping just scares the ear wax outta me. Keep us posted in Technical Topics on the mods to the headlamp/instruments. Really great to meet you and have not just one , but TWO Coppa Italia at an SSR!

Heli-Jim, sorry you are too late for this year:

A bit of the mood: (Not quite ferguzzi's mantra, "Back to the Pub!" but we tried our best!)

Various V11:

D - - C, get it? Currently, I am definitely waning. The Scotch is gone. I drank the two shots I owed Bill (I forget for what now . . .) and on to whatever beer is left from lowryter's visit. Trying to re-fit my V11 Rescue Kit with zip-ties, fence wire, light bulbs, spark plugs, fuses, and relays. Lessons learned: never shut a V11 off on a deserted back road without spare relays . . .

My recollection is that I gleaned the concern for "energy conserving" friction modifiers adversely affecting the rings seating in the bores from generous posts made here by Pete Roper. I wouldn't want to misrepresent what he has said, but that is my recollection. Keith, I wonder if you mean running your Valvoline 4K (4,000) miles not "40K" (40,000) miles ?