docc

So, that relay bypass would delete both the Side Stand Switch, the Neutral Switch, and the relay?

My rear tire average over 22 tires is 3538. The original Pirelli Dragon Corsa went 2772. IMO, they were one of the major contributors to the early Sport's tendency to high speed weave. The difference I saw with the GT is that it gave me more time at the end without getting critical.

As Steinbeck had said, "The world was, once again, spinning on greased grooves." (Cannery Row, 1945)

I've run a tire or two off my 2000 Sport. I'm hard on tires, up-shifting hard and engine braking back down. Sprint the straight, brake hard, and drive out. Not a formula for tire life. Sporty good fun, ya, but change your tires with your oil. The 2000 V11 Sport was delivered with Pirelli Dragon Corsa. Kind of like a heavy, but very pretty, girl on high heels. Going dancing? Better be ready for the catch! Down-size-ing to the 160 on the early, narrow rims, and finding more suitable tires, along with setting the proper sag (weighting the front) has all been brilliant. The reports of weave and such would be gone. This Pirelli Angel GT is my 25th rear tire. New tire for them: new tire for me. I didn't expect much. I like Pirelli. I've worn out: Dragon Corsa, Diablo Strada, (x5), Angel (x4) (Dunlop, Michelin, Metzler, Bridgestone - ok, so I sleep around ) As Pirelli have evolved the tires I have seen very little change "in the field." Until now. In the past, if a tire was beginning to look worn - replace it! The wear would accelerate in the last couple hundred miles. I took a chance riding to Barber's Vintage Festival and back on this "new" Pirelli GT. 500 miles round trip, 45 mph average speed (no big high speed runs - riding with small displacement Hondas!) Average miles on all prior Angels/Stradas: 3,700 miles. Impression: they "go away" quickly in the last couple hundred miles. I would not have left on this 500 mile trip on those tires. Risked the trip on the GT: 4,100 miles and it needs replacing, but didn't let me down on the trip giving up a big white stripe I was watching for the whole time. My impression: the Pirelli Angel GT is a breakthrough for our lovely (if heavy) dancing girls!

Hold the phone on that side stand switch . . . When you say short it, you don't mean to ground? You're saying you can just close the connection, bypass the switch? Just to clarify, the Side Stand Switch supplies current to the Run Switch while in gear and in motion. It is the main current flow while riding. To prevent riding off with the side stand down, we have the Neutral Switch on the left side of the gearbox. It activates the center relay and supplies current to the Run Switch while the side stand is down in neutral. The schematics call it the "Side Stand Relay" but it is activated by the Neutral Switch. The Side Stand Switch supplies running current directly with no relay. I would think it is easy enough to keep in service to prevent riding off on a side stand. Half way to a bad day there.

I used to keep mine bolted off until I finally stripped the threads removing them to do the throttle body balance. Then I went back to the brass nipples and rubber caps. For now, I think you'd be better off to seal it with a short fastener.

Good for you! You're onto some of the spooky badness, for sure. Sounds like it's time for a new ground cable. While you're at it, make sure the regulator is grounded to the timing chest and that is grounded to the spine frame. Next to sort out what ever the PO has wired in. Knowledgeable technicians or enthusiasts would not use red wire on the negative side of a 12vDC system. It is the proper home of black wires, or possibly dark green. So where ever those go is suspect. Can you post a picture of the mystery cylinder? The hose form the intake picks up vacuum there. There should be an identical port on the other side. Originally, they were part of the carbon canister emissions mess. These are also the vacuum taps used to balance the throttle bodies. If there is a brass nipple on the other intake, you can attach the hose between them. I prefer using rubber caps on my nipples to completely separate the intakes. What people do with their nipples has been the subject of some debate. There have been some creative suggestions, not entirely technical in nature. No pictures, please! Regardless, the regulator nozzle is open for atmospheric reference and should not have a vacuum applied.

May be an rpm limitation. Even the stock 350w is rated at maximum rpm. Sounds like you've got a good plan!

Lap solder and heat shrink?

Size comparison on this post :MAXI fuse. Stock fuse on the right. ALL your fuses are the larger size? How could that be?

K_Roy has discovered a number of the "short-comings" of the Guzzi design including the alternator function and the way the regulator references voltage, the weak ground path (especially for the regulator). We've long known routing the headlight current through the switch is un-good, but running a direct hot could affect the reference voltage and cause under charging. The relay connections are certainly suspect. I believe in running the very best relays available because it is such a failure prone point in the system. IMO, the small ATC fuse contacts (even in an external holder are just inadequate for the load. I melted or burned up every ATC fuse in three different holders before the MAXI fuse. End of problem. That and, of course, adding the grounds; OMRON relays; stator; regulator; separate power and relays for hi beam, lo beam and each horn; junction blocks for the terminal arrays; servicing, tightening, and sealing every connector . . . For you, the MAXI fuse is still next assuming you've done the grounds.

The relays from pyroDan are shockingly inexpensive and I don't recall any failures reported on the GEI he currently has on offer. The link to the Kiwi_Roy post is for OMRON which are likely "better" relays, but may be overkill and at least double the money.

Got-One: You've got a really nice example of the V11! Go to your profile and edit your year and model. Best feedback on the crossover is to take a clear photo and post it on Technical Topics sub-forum. This is gonna be fun!

The TPS can be checked on or off the bike with an Ohm meter by watching resistance as the TPS is very gradually opened and closed. If the resistance jumps suddenly, the TPS is bad. I could not find my bad TPS with the mV readings, but the resistance method showed it clearly.

13V to 11V is a big voltage drop. Mine only drops 0.5V. Something (likely more than one thing) is up. Let's work through it. One thing at a time. I'm a big fan of the MAXI fuse conversion for the 30amp main. I would also replace all the fuses in the block with the correct amperage. if they blow, there is something wrong (shorted) in that circuit.

This is the very best answer and source (in North America) from Kiwi_Roy posted in Relay Replacement.

Hi! Yeah just back from Barber's Vintage Festival. More on that later . . . Here's the post on the MAXI fuse - no more trouble after that installation, but again, even the holders I added externally for the standard fuse melted or burned off with out blowing the fuse, I wish i could remember where I got the MAXI holder (thought it was O'Reilly's).

Wow, yeah! Full black exhaust - never seen that before! Nice!

Onibaka in Belarus. Konstantin, no?

I think I may have dated a large drum controller in college . . .

True that. As gs taught me: even the copper paste is still an insulator/ non-conductive. Beyond that (and even more worrisome), the silicon in dielectric grease chemically turns to something like glass on or around any contact points (i.e. relays). It can infiltrate the wiring in this state for a significant distance. We can all imagine what a coating of glass would do for the conductivity especially on contact points. Glass is one of the best insulators. I'll get back to my "Maintenance Checklists" and amend them. Thanks for expert reminder guys!

Those aren't terrible voltages: this is do-able! I didn't look back through all your posts, but 1) ground the regulator case to the timing chest. While you're at it, ground the timing chest to the spine frame. 2) make sure your battery terminal stack is clean and tight. 3) inspect the 30 amp regulator fuse for signs of funkiness. Two questions on voltage: What is your voltage key on (not running)? and what rpm are you referencing "throttle open/throttle wide open?"

Certainly, it's time to set the voltages straight which is looking like a battery to begin with. Yet, alot was apart and back together and it was "running great" before . . . Today my son and I worked on his vintage bike getting ready to ride to Barber's Vintage Festival. Simple stuff: check to be sure the petcock had good fuel flow both "on" and "reserve" (it did), and replace the spark plug caps with known good ones. Bike would not start. Not start. NOT START. A couple hours going over everything, taking things apart, leaving for lunch and coffee. Once back and checking for (no) voltage at the points: there it was up under the tank - the points connector had come undone while fiddling with the petcock. There it is again: "Don't fix too many things at once!" But also, czakky, once your voltages are good, you may need to go back over the harness under the tank and under the airbox simply looking for something not plugged in. Very carefully inspect all the wires that got hot in the meltdown to be sure they are not shorted to ground or broken/ burnt open. Don't give up! I've got too much beer riding on this (even if I do have to split with K_R and gs. And Hubert, of course . . . )

czakky and I are thinking it's time for a good battery test, maybe new battery. Then we'll test the regulator after it is grounded well back to the engine. A short like this can cause some havoc, but nothing craft beer cannot fix!

Hubert, Moto Guzzi replaced both my side covers and starter cover under warranty, but my dealer made me promise not to put them on. So, I've fiber glassed the backs of all three of the body parts on the bike and still have the new pieces in the bags. The cracks are just there for looks. Otherwise, C-zak: 11.9 V is pretty much a dead battery. You could try charging it and seeing if this changes the run condition. That short had to be pretty hard on the battery. Maybe the regulator too. What does the black wire look like going into the right side top of the regulator? Most important is Hubert's question about the main ground cable. I can almost see it in your photo from when the airbox was off . . .