docc

What good is a 10 page thread if someone doesn't dredge it up about every year? I just managed to beat another left side wheel bearing out of the Sport. 14,000 miles on the first bearing, 35,000 on this one. I've cleaned and packed a new French SKF 3204-2RS1 (no C3 designation) Moto Guzzi bearing with BelRay and have it in the freezer waiting to be put in a warmed wheel. I am leaving off the centering collars for the spacer to make the next bearing replacement more reasonable. Other than the hassle centering the spacer each time the wheel goes back on, I don't suppose there is more trouble leaving the little buggers out?

What about for the caliper bolts, which are reported to be marked with a class? Is that specified in the parts guide?

You don't work on your Sport on a Persian rug? Gotta get on board there, buddy. There is a significant wear ridge from the fiber disc into the forged drive hub. As long as it's there just as a seal and isn't supposed to be a friction damper I think I'll try to slick it up a bit more with a coat of moly along with the grease. The disc is self lubricating as the grease slings off the drive splines.

Mine has three discs: the outer stainless steel looking retaining ring, the inner forged steel drive with the splines on one side and vanes on the other, and an intermediate fiber disc(not shown in any of Greg's photos) which looks to be made of a fiber friction material like a clutch disc or brake pad. With it all caked up it looks like part of the black metal drive hub, but it peels off and cleans up. EDIT: The Workshop Manual, Section F page 10, refers to the retaining plate as the "washer", the intermediate fiber plate as the "gasket" and the inner plate as "plate with gearing." It looks like a pretty abrasive gasket judging by the wear indication on the inner plate. If, indeed its only purpose is sealing there would be nothing wrong with a coat of really slippery moly as long as it doesn't sling out on the wheel too much.

I've reached Brembo NA, but they have no engineering department. I have emailed Brembo for the third time. I intend to be relentless on getting a response. Does the Guzzi parts guide have a specification for the 8mmx 1.25x 20mm button head bolts? (I did notice the carrier bolts on the Ducati monster have a Torx drive. Seems smart considering how easily these tear up.)

I've always greased the splines of the hub drive, but I don't see the friction disc in the pictures or any mention of it.

With the drive apart it answers some questions for me , but begs others. I can see now how Dave could suggest affecting deceleration without acceleration. I forgot there are cushes in front of the vanes as well as behind. My rubbers are pretty pliable. I have had this apart before, but only once in 50,000 miles. I did grease every thing with BelRay waterproof grease and use copper anti-seize on the bolts. One of the heads still munted and required a Torx30 to come out. I suppose you could use stainless fasteners in the rust prone application as it appears less critical than a brake rotor? No one mentioned the friction disc between the vane plate and the retaining ring. I cleaned mine with Naphtha (lighter fluid). So, now, to lube: back with the BelRay, use some moly to really slick it up, what?

I believe the later version has the brake carrier clipped to the locator pin. The pin has an extension which extends through the carrier where it is clipped ( not a cotter pin per se, but a spring clip). The '04 we worked on at the Spine Raid had to take the pin out entirely to get the wheel off. This the pin which is threaded through the left side of the swingarm forward of the axle.

The '03 and '04 are surely the best sorted of the series. Greg says the speedo cable trouble has been superseded with a new part. Still, any Guzzi is like having a relationship more than buying and having a 'thing.'

Best $10 you can spend on your V11: GEI relays Best $100: fork springs Best $250: fuel,oil and miles Best $500: exhaust cannisters Best $1000: rear shock No matter what machine you have: bike, car, camera, there is no substitute for the constant fettling and grooming that imparts your animism to the machine. Even then they sometimes fret like a pretty Italian lady just to get your attention.

Dark conspiracy. No Nero Corsa in '02. Scura, yes. How 'bout it, Woolly: big fairing, little fairing, no fairing?

It will be a V11 LeMans if it has a full fairing and clip-on bars. The V11 Sport of 2004 has full handlebars and either no windscreen or a small fly screen. You have a photo?

There is no unthreaded shank on these bolts. Perhaps that is testimony that the shear is not direct but friction grip. I'm more certain now that I can't calculate the force that is created in braking. Last night's sleeplessness had me pondering the torque moment between the axle and caliper as divided by the friction surface. I feel that this multiplies the force applied to the braking system. Jason's assertion that calculus is required is well taken.

I thought a bolt was a finished thing. Seems like the force would be focused across the bolt encompassing it's area. You think it would be spread across the area for the entire thickness of the rotor? It's more engineering than I know. I do have a resource with ME background. I'll try him since I haven't heard back from Brembo yet. Hopefully their engineering and technical people can give the definitive response. Otherwise, I'm mentally preparing myself for the instant at which both my rotors shear off simultaneously. I think my only hope will be to keep them clutched firmly in the calipers while gaulding the absolute nuts off my splines engine braking like a madman.

Sneaking a bit of tyre thread in are ye? Cleaver weasels. I wondered what could be pushing a Scura thread into three pages . . . So, how do the Pirelli Diablo fall in that carcass rating?

Certainly an 8mm shaft would have greater strength before it is threaded. I'm not sure of the thread depth on an 8mm bolt with 1.25 mm pitch, but I would suppose the strength would then be more like a 6mm shaft. I believe the yield strength standards Ratchet cited are for the finished bolt, not just the material, yes?

Wouldn't it be the area of the shaft o the bolt. Technically it would not be based on the diameter of the bolt but the diameter at the depth of the threads, no?

I've heard there's a speedo repair shop in California. Maybe the California guys could chime in on that. I know the Veglia (white face) speedo has a plastic worm gear inside that can trash, loosing the odometer while the speedo keeps on. Not sure about the later gauges.

It seems pretty simple to calculate the area of an 8mm bolt, convert that the square inches and multiply times the psi figure you provided for the A70. Tired of shooting in the dark, I eMailed Brembo NA for their specifications on the fastener and an opinion on the stainless replacements. Now, whether they pass the inquiry on to engineering and technical or over to legal . . .

I'm not convinced the A70 is down rated since there appears to be no clarified rating on the original fasteners. And you're right, I used the bolt diameter, 8mm, for the calculation and should have used the area, 50 mm sq. converted to inch measure. Refiguring, I get just over 5,000 pounds per bolt. 60,840 pounds, or 76 g's, to shear them all.

If A70 stainless bolts shear at 65,000 psi, and all 12 would have to shear simultaneously for failure, then over 245,000 pounds of force will have to be applied. I wonder what kind of front tire would still make traction? That's 300 g's for an 800 pound machine with rider. I think I'd pass out first.

The fuses and relays all check out?

Just for clarification, this is what I think Greg said about where he has found the wear. I can't visualize this interface as I've only had my clutch exposed once. I suspect this is an area that will tolerate zero lubrication.

Reviewing the shop manual (and admitting that it has been sorely lacking in some cases), there is no specification for bolt hardness or even the recommendation to fit new bolts upon reassembly. Only to apply Loctite 270.

I get it. Even with the very slight increase in 'play' or whatever, the softer end points have got to be desirable. A slipper clutch for the perforcably thrifty. The motor mounts on my Volvo and the suspension bushings on the Cherokee are all upgraded to urethane. I can see this as an elegant alternative to swarfing the bench with rubber slag.