al_roethlisberger

Nice looking Did you break your OEM lever, or is there some advantage to this one, or just like the look better?

What size oil pressure and voltage gauges were used in the Le Mans fairing examples earlier in the thread that worked well? Speed Hut has 2 1/6" and 2 5/8". Also, how do the gauges know the difference to switch between day and night lighting, since on US bikes we can't disable our head and running lights? .....or is the night lighting in the gauges always on, but only noticeable when it gets dark?

Very nice installation. It might help others looking at this solution if you could possibly post the model numbers of the bars, risers and clamps and which mirrors you used. Thanks

You can take them off in any order you want, but yes the back will "collapse" But it's not a big deal honestly. Just chock and support the front of the bike and rear swingarm/wheel assembly creatively. You can then unbolt the porkchops. I recommend not loosening the swingarm pins, but instead just unbolting the porkchop six main frame bolts and removing it with it's swingarm pins in place. This way you can measure the pin's depth as screwed into each porkchop accurately so you get it right when you put it all back together. I had mine powdercoated about a decade ago, but it got slightly damaged right before I reinstalled them and now has a few areas bubbling. So I think I'm due to take mine off again and have them coated again.

Sorry to see you let go of the RC Mike! It's been a long time since we hung out in NorCal

Great trip. It's been more than a decade since I've taken the opportunity for a week+ trip across the country... should do it again one day.

A moderator may want to move this thread out of the classified section. That's probably why it isn't getting much attention. But never-the-less, here is the entry in the FAQ section on bar risers. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=565 The last update was in 2003, so it wouldn't surprise me if many of the links are dead. However vendors like MPH Cycles still sell a set that retains the original bars. https://mphcycles.com/handle-bar-risers/

Al! Fueling my Guzzichondriosis since June 2002! ( So glad to see you back around, buddy! ) Thanks, as you can see I check in about once a year... coincidentally around winter when I think I'm going to have time to service the bike for next year I'm actually more hopeful this year that I'll do so, as I may have some new riding buddies here at work for inspiration. It's a bit sad to see the volume on the forum dropping so much over the last few years, but that's to be expected. I'm seeing the same on a few other forums that are dedicated to older vehicles where just the die-hards hold on, and a few new owners meander through every so often. What is upbeat though is all the new technologies available and distilled lessons-learned that we have now, and would have helped years ago

Sorry to see you have to let it go, but very nice bike at a reasonable price. I'm sure you'll find it a new home with someone that will appreciate its original condition.

I bet that's the way to go, as long as the circuit breaker doesn't melt too!!

Thanks, mailing address sent in email!

Are any of these still available after the latest batch? Seems I missed the last round before that, and I'd like to get one. Thanks Al

Thanks for putting the effort into following through on this. There really are just a few straggling issues with the good old V11 models after all of these years, and this was one of them. Hopefully this puts this worry to bed once and for all.

Man, that KTM is nice. Gotta love orange

2005 Honda Pilot 1995 Buick Riviera 1997 Jaguar XJR

With the bucket sealed and everything in there sooooo tight, any concerns regarding longevity since the fan can't circulate air very well? BTW, when you say you "cut down the raised ring around the light" what part exactly did you cut? And just to confirm, which model light is this? You mention Guzzi Tech, but wanted to confirm the exact model. Thanks for trying this out!

Yep! That's the technique! I've used the factory stand for years using this method and have never scratched the bike nor had any issues. Once you get the technique down, it is very easy to roll the stand under the bike, align the bolts/slots, stand the bike up, hold the front brake and push the handle down in one smooth motion..... and up it goes. And it is very stable once up. It's not really that different than figuring out how to properly use a center stand on a big heavy bike. I nearly killed myself until someone showed me how to stand my FJ1200 up on its center. Although it looks scary, is actually is a really nice design. The only part that doesn't really work well is the goofy "spool" for the front support. THAT I don't trust, nor use .

Yep, that is one of the "airbox lid eliminator" kits, which is a aluminum ring that replaces the lid & snorkels. And appears to be one very dirty K&N. But hey good news is that according to the marketing, the K&N (and similar gauze/oil) do a better job filtering the dirtier it gets

Looking at some new tires, and just like "oil threads" there are a lot of opinions and of course different bike make/models respond differently, and there's always a rider style and personal preference component... With that in mind, I've read some of the threads here that mention the current crop of Pirelli, Avon, Conti and Michelin, but haven't seen anything on the newer Bridgestone T30. The T30 is signficantly less expensive than its peers, but seems to have good reviews. Does anyone have any long term experience with the T30 on the V11?

Mike Rich did my dual plug conversion, ported the heads, added high comp pistons, new valve guides, etc and Teo Lamers reprogrammed the ECU for the timing. I can't really comment on how much it helped as too many other things were changing at the same time, it was 10+ years ago and I've never ridden another stock V11 But it didn't cause any detonation or other issues with reliability or smooth running. That being said, I still do have the occasional 3-4k stumble after everything is good and warmed up, so I'll be putting some time into ferreting out that problem even if it sacrifices some top end performance (or not). I may look at refitting the stock airbox even though I do like the pods aesthetic. But to the OP question, it really is a matter of personal taste, goals and available resources (time, money & patience). And just like any similar endeavor one soon realizes a trend of decreasing returns for increasing cost. When I did all my original mods, I was a single guy with lots of disposable income, so if I were doing this again today (now with family= much less disposable income), I'd probably opt for some simpler modifications that focused more on addressing reliability, economy and suspension opportunities versus power. There is a wealth of info here, but there isn't any (AFAIK) succinct formulas say for "stage 1", "stage 2" etc well tested performance combinations documented all in one place that essentially could be thought of as "kits" (parts & ECU/PCIII maps) with clearly defined results. With that in mind, given the years of tinkering recorded here and other places like Wildguzzi perhaps there ought to be 2, 3 or 4 well tested combinations (each more complex/costly than the previous, again "stage 1", "stage 2", etc) we could put in the FAQ section with references to the most commonly available parts, install guides, ECU/PCIII maps, estimated cost, HP/torque/reliability/caveats, etc ... I think after all these years we probably do have a lot of that information scattered throughout the forum.