gstallons

Good. One time we had to install some sensors on the Bell housing and set the air gap to XXX . We got the flywheel tooth to the center of the bore , and figured the air gap with the revolution of the sensor threads and bottomed the sensor against the tooth and backed it out accordingly to get the proper air gap.

I think we are talking about the same thing......You are making sure one tooth is in the center of the bore where the sensor goes ?

I assume you got one tooth at TDC in relation to the centerline of the sensor ?

You can do that but use Sta-Bil for non-alcohol fuel or Sta-Bil for alcohol fuel. IDK what the difference is but there is a difference.

I would bypass the sidestand switch (for test purposes only) and make sure it is working.

You have two issues to address; As Roper,Tinus , I and others will verify , this light is not "for entertainment purposes only". Replace the oil press. switch and go looking. Remove the manhole cover and take off the filter and inspect the seal on the filter. Install a new filter / oil. Get this filter SNUG. when you install the manhole cover push against the pan and rotate it like you are removing it . When it clicks , stop turning and tighten it. This way you will not cross thread it. Install a new o-ring on the cover too. The majority of engine failures come down to loose oil filters. these are inside the oil pan and impossible to know if they are tight/loose until something bad happens. we don't want you to have a 500lb piece of junk in your yard. It is not easy coming up w/another engine.

The factory manual gives 0.6-1.2mm clearance or 0.023-0.047" clearance. IDK what the hot setup is. I would think the 0.7mm clearance is the best. You want the tooth to be in the center of the bore when measuring this clearance.

IDK what brand relays you have but I would consider replacing them with quality Omron relays. The oil light situation: tomorrow first thing , check your oil level. If it is good , you will want to consider an oil / filter change. use a premium filter and good oil. If you feel confident about your skill level , install a Roper plate. a very important part. That oil light doesn't accidentally come on ! AFA the fuel pump goes , they are usually good or bad...no in between. The only other problem I have seen is the fuel will start leaking from the electrical terminals. If at all possible use an OEM pump. It is the correct dimension such as diameter , length, everything. Unless someone has an aftermarket part # that will fit perfectly ?

Red frame ? Whewwww. it could be ANYTHING . We will put on our thinking caps and come up with some suggestions and things to check !

You should look inside the tank of a 87 SE and it looks like it would be better underneath a tree w/o a fuel cap than inside a damp building w/an empty tank.

Fill it up w/straight gas. You don't want to leave it empty and then take the cap off year later to find RUST.

GLWTS ?

Once you get an understanding of how it works you will be p.o'd AFA the removal procedure and how simple it is . Caterpillar had come up w/a new style of "push-lock" hose connection and I wasn't installing it (the new hose) correctly. After 3 attempts and probably 30 gallons of hydraulic fluid spraying the underneath of this "Bobcat" I figured out what I was doing wrong.

Nothing is better than a Dr's excuse !

I don't have anything that looks like these. I would get those. You can try it w/o them . Just remember to push the fittings together and then push the "loose" portion away from the coupling and pull away from the fitting.

Let me look and see what my pliers look like.

IDK how much they are or if they come in a set. IIRC , the way the coupling works is to push the fuel line into the coupling , then push the inner portion into the outer and allow the line to come off. It may work the first time and it may take 20 attempts before it works. Jus remember to push the connector together before you do anything. There needs to be a video on how to disconnect this. The pliers look like they will work. After buying SnapOn primarily these look like a bargain !

You got that right ! I just finished a 2014 Altima that had a lot of codes. The alt. was putting out 15.54v at all times. Ran a multitude of tests . Found out it had about 4 alternators installed over the years. I tested the hell out of the battery and wiring system . Installed a QUALITY alternator and got a little over 14v at idle and then settled down. I think I read anything over 14.7v and you got troubles!

No , Sam I didn't miss that. We were giving troubleshooting advice w/the understanding you had installed good known parts. This is not a pissing contest. We are happy you got your bike up and running .

In defense of all members of this forum , we were answering all questions concerning this charging system with the understanding your bike was not charging correctly before and after the installation of the new parts. This test was/is an Electrosport test to test the R/R to see if it might be bad. I read all the flow chart and troubleshooting guide. The guide shows a 3 phase stator in the diagram and this charging system used on this bike is a single phase stator. Two yellow wires will be a single phase where as three yellow wires will be a three phase charging system.

SamP , is this the test you performed ?

BTW , what is the diode test ?

when you install the new one , verify all connections are SNUG and you do have a perfect ground (earth) connection.

Sorry , i didn't look at your location.

IDK if any other vendors sell one or not . Euro Motoelectrics in Denver sells electrical parts but IDK what brand they sell. I haven't had to buy one and IDK what is the best source.