gstallons

It is a threaded "sleeve" as a Heli-Coil is like a spiral wire .

TimeSert is a great product. E-Z lok ( Fastenal ) is a great thread repair too .

to add to Kiwi Roy's input .If the battery is connected backward , any permanent magnet staring motor will spin . The problem is , it spins in reverse . e.g. the starter spins but not crank the engine . This works on any simple electrical system such as a small engine on riding mowers , etc . Vehicles with more complicated electrical systems allow smoke to come out of places that shouldn't . I KNOW .

Remove your starter cover and take a test light , touch it to the small tab of the starter solenoid . Press the start button to see if the test light comes on. If so, your problem is in the starter . Remove the small wire and try wiring a starter button to same terminal and to 12v at the battery cable portion of the solenoid. If you get the same results , it's time for starter repair. If the starting motor works , you need to go backward into the start circuit.

Follow it and see where it goes.

I like what you have done to this bike... You will do at least the same to the V11 . They are almost perfect . You will $pend a lot of time perfecting it. So , you have a manger ? Hmmmm.

The feeling is worse than Erectile Distraction .

No , I spent about $125 to get them cleaned properly . Air tool motor oil dripped on them for about a week and they meant a lot to me so the $$$ didn't matter .

The sensor has swollen and will be difficult to remove , order a new one and make sure you get a new seal too . The oil pressure can leak......if you are afraid of it , order a new one too.

You do have the hoses on the pump correctly ? This leak does not occur until the ignition is turned "on" ?

can you take a picture of where this leak is taking place ? Baby powder on the area will show the exact place . The hose might have a crack where it is clamped .Both pumps can't (unlikely) be bad and leak so I would look at the connections.

One of my Top 10 reads of all time .

You should have removed the bolt to see if the bolt shank is worn . If so , replace it .

Make sure there is free travel in the hydraulics before you start .

That triangle should be SOLID . Get you a dental mirror so you can see the fasteners behind it. Replace the fastener in the front part of the triangle . Maybe a 6mm x 12mm bolt & washer ?

Get the rear wheel off the ground , put it in second gear , pull in the clutch lever and see how much drag is on the clutch . It should be free. If not see what bleeding does. I assume you know how to do this ? Also , check for free travel adjustments too.

Everyone of us has a expiration date . It always comes too early for us . A quick death is easier on the victim than a long death from a terminal illness . The person that has died will go to the next step . The ones that remain will be speechless . Being a Southerner ( the rest of the world may do the same ) , I go the funeral home / funeral almost weekly to pay my respects and the more I go the more I dislike it . All of us must make preparation for life , death and eternity . Make the best decision(s) because (my beliefs) you can't come back . As Hank Williams said " I'll never get out of this world alive " .

I place the worm gear part of the clamp against something where it will not turn CCW any .

Can you post a pic of the fuel line fitting ?

First , verify you have oil pressure with the engine running .Connect an ohmmeter to the switch after disconnecting the wire to the unit. If there is a change in continuity from KOEO to KOER your switch is good. If so proceed to the next step. With the key on is the light on ? Disconnect the wire at the oil pressure switch . If there is a change , touch the wire to a good known ground. If there is a change with this action you can decide if the switch is bad or not or if the light is inoperative .

You had a dealership ?

Do or do not , there is no try.

Go with the Heli-Coil kit. Just do it properly and you will not have any troubles .

I don't know if Timesert offers a thread repair for this drain plug. You will have to measure your drain plug thread pitch and see . Tmesert is the best thread repair kit available .

The VIN decoding as I remember is .... 1st character is the Country of origin. 2nd & 3rd character is the Manufacturer's I.D. 4th -8th is Brand & misc.info w/the last character being the engine.9th is a verification code 10th character is the year . 11th character is the plant . 12th-17th is the Serial number.