gstallons

This may sound hokey-pokey....hlod a lighted candle around the mating surfaces of the head/cylinder while the engine is running. You will find out VERY quick that it indeed is the head gasket leaking.

The VIN should be 17 characters with the 10th character ( this is true in automobiles) designating the year of manufacture. I think the 2000 model vehicles will have a 0 in this slot. A 2001 will have a 1, etc. This has been true for the 1st decade of 2000. You could Google VIN decoding to verify this .

That is why I was making it as silly as possible........

I don't know much about it & apologies if I misunderstand, but if you simply plumb the rear m/c up to one front + rear disc, & leave single front disc on normal front m/c, won't your m/c:piston ratios will be all wrong? KB So ? Don't let that trivial stuff get in the way of an idea ! I guess you could hook up the integral brake to the front brake lever and the foot brake lever to the single front brake caliper.

Uh.................The Scura is so hot with the matte black paint. What is not hot, is the LaBrea Tar Pit coating on the engine block.

Requiescat in pace

You appear intent on doing this..........

Loosen the pivot bolt jam nut (on the inside of the frame) one turn. Loosen the pivot bolt one turn. Tighten the pivot bolt one turn. If the shifter follows the r.h. rotation of the bolt, the pivot bolt and shift lever have rusted together. Remove the bolt and shift lever to clean and lubricate WELL before reassembly.

Do not waste your time doing this..........I don't think you will see any benefit from this.

Uhhhhh, that's one of those events you keep to yourself !

I have some brake parts that I purchased from eBay............do you need a rear brake hose ? Gene

I use Beringer cast iron disks on my 1999 V11 Sport and Beringer Aerotec Radial MC for brakes and clutch with Brembo carbon-ceramic (organic) pads. Far superior to OEM Brembo in terms of efficiency and feeling. Beringer Web Site Braking is powerful, even using only 2 fingers. Can you post pics?

Yes......You go in the opposite direction e.g. "backing off the throttle" , etc........ 99% of all fasteners are r.h. thread...when you unscrew a fastener, you back off from it's last positon.....

That wheel / caliper position makes the front end a LeMans Mk 3 ? Probably so...........it doesn't have that f**ked up side stand like the Mk IV........

Have a good trip........I have training all week and can't skip out on it ! UGH

Too beautiful to touch !

That's why I use synthetic oil............

A ground wire is equally important as a positive wire..... As corrosive as the junk that is applied to road surfaces in the winter now the connector he talked about using is the best. The road "salt" used now can destroy a 22 ga wire in 3 yrs that has the insulation cut back or opened up.

You use red Loctite when you plan on NEVER removing that fastener again.

Ok....thank you.

Kiwi, Could diodes be added to the two remaining legs of the stator to make them work in the charging system ? Is it stated anywhere if this a Y or Delta wound stator? Just curious.......

I use shakeproof (star) washers on any ground connection..... After many bad experiences I use them EVERY time.

Run your ground up to one of the ignition coil mounting bracket nuts located above the oil cooler.

That's the difference in years.........I do not have access to a 2000 yr wiring diagram..............

Do not twist and tape ANY connections...............Use butt connectors or butt connectors w/ spade or bullet terminals... According to my 2003 wiring diagram, fues #6 powers the ign. coils, fuel injectors, fuel pump & dash warning lamp...2000 might be different ?