gstallons

You can cange it when you feel it is necessary.... every other year or so. It is not that expensive. I use Mobil synthetic engine oil in both my Guzzis. The clutch will last as long as you want.

There is no OTC product to rectify this problem........

the fuel dripping from the injectors is indicative of a problem.

Yes, and to keep water out of the spark plug holes.

850 CCs huh?

If you live in the US, contact MotoInternational,Harper's or Joe Eish to get the correct one. When you call them have a description of your filter. Diameter, overall body length, inlet/outlet dia.,etc.....

If you are through riding for the yr. Send your injectors to www.lindertech.com and have them checked and reconditioned if needed. These guys are the best in the business.

Well, Okie give us your Bowl teams & winners !

Not "a new tappet", "four new tappets".......... Camshaft lobes do go down and the lifters fail. I am not sure of the order though. The only thing you can do is : #1 use the best oil/oil filter you can get and service often. #2 use a good assembly lube when you put it back together. #3 remember the first 15 min. is the most critical part of the new valvetrain .

You will also visit frequently to tell us how much you LOVE this bike..............

A valve spring will get weaker or break in two. They will probably not get stronger to cause any accelerated wear.

Any time you have wear like this on the foot of the lifter you can be assures the lobe of the camshaft is having the same results. When assembling the NEW components use a cam/lifter lube going back together. Use new oil and oil filter too.

There were pics on here where somenone had the piston domes and a couple of other things blased with dry ice. This looks ultimate.

Alpina wheels are worth it !

The Motioncontrols part #s are: DNTFL-6 for the rod end and TR6-100 for the threaded rod. The 6mm l.h. thread adjusting nut you can get from Fastenal or any good bike shop that will take time to help. You will have to grind some of the outside edge of the rod end for frame clearanse when installing the shift linage. It might help to purchase a 6mm drill bit for drilling holes. When going back together you will want to cut the new rod the same length as the old one because it is about 15mm longer....

Are you sure that's not an album cover ?

I use Mobil Synthetic 15/40 oil with OEM filter. The transmission oil is seperate from the engine. Most people use RedLine, I use Motorcraft 75/90 Synthetic gear lube in the transmission and rear drive. p.s.Purchase a Pete Roper spacer plate available at MotoInternational (if you live in the US) along with proper gaskets. Use a hose clamp when installing the new filter to keep them from backing off... $$$$$$

Sure,I'm up for any suggestions. thanks Here is a picture of my modification. http://sn134w.snt134...225a1b2d51&fv=1 I used a piece of scrap metal and shaped it like I wanted it with a 19mm center to center on the offset.Then I drilled a hole at the bottom of the bracket where it Ys and installed a 6mm screw/nut for stability. The parts were from midwestcontrol . When I find the invoice I will give specific part #s. p.s. I am sure there are better ways to send or post pics.. You have to understand who is posting this stuff.

You should show pics of the welds so people will get off the subject and they will stop thinking "Mad Max'' type of rigging......

The bad part of all this is............. The clowns will find it is too exotic to sell or part out and toss it into the river. Just post it in the paper for them to return it w/no ?s asked.

As for the pinging, are you running premium fuel ?

I hope things work out for you.

When you purchase it, drop ship it to my address....... I will ride it for 1 year and let you know what it needs.

That is TOO easy........