gstallons

Read my post again. Check with your AUTOMOTIVE garage to see if they have this device or if they know a shop that has it. The kit is less than $100 but you will probably never use it again......

Do you have access to dye/UV light to find the leak? If not , check with the shop that works on your vehicle to se if they can help. You WILL find the leak with this stuff!!!

Back in the early 1908s cam lobe failure was commonplace in 305- 350 Chevrolet engines..... Camshaft/lifter replacement was done w/out any other problems. I think you could get by (I would check the bores of the head where camshaft goes in the heads for excessive clearance) with cam/followers replacement.

This Ducati looks GOOD !

What was the purpose of putting the sealer in the tank in the 1st place? Was the fuel tank leaking ? The plastic tank was (and is ) probably too "slick" for the sealer to stick to the tank.

Please explain your statement.. "You can't just screw down aluminum" .....

The left side is lean..... Do you have an infra-red thermometer to put on the exhaust pipes to see difference in temps. ? Check for air leaks at the intake. If that is o.k. you probably have a fuel injector problem. www.lindertech.com is the place to send them for service. They can test, flow rate and clean them . They will tell you if they are bad or good , so you can be assured that is or is not your problem.

The "plastic tank in a crash" question does not have an answer. These tanks kave been known to do things they are not supposed to do. That can be fixed with an aluminum fuel tank. You own(ed) British bikes.......... My experience with them "Ride it no farther than you can push it back". The Guzzi is "different" and hopefully so are you. As far as buying a used bike, go into the purchase full of questions and expect good honest answers. The good seller willknow if you are asking knowledgeable questions too. He will probably be a member of this forum. This is a PLUS... Good luck.

Congratulations from all of us ! I am sure you are happy........

what page ? Found them ! Looks like the way to go !

OMG. A perfect view.

In the MGNOC classifieds; U-joint rebuilds. John P Chicione. Russell,Mass. Cell# 413-454-8002. e-mail jchicione@verizon.net. He might not be able to rebuild your shaft ( send pics) but he might have or be able to fix you up with one.

Push down on the back of the seat while you turn the key CCW. This should do it... If not you will have to use a 12" very small regular screwdriver to push the latch to open it. Have someone pull up on the left rear of the seat and using a flashlight, look under the seat about 2" forward from the rear push the screwdriver toward the lever and release the latch. The cable maybe too long to work the release and you need to do something to shorten it.

Google driveshaft or u-joint repairs for V11 ...........After a better look, that is messed up !

Richard....... Do this: go to an automotive parts store, ask to look at any two identical U-joins. Take them out of the boxes and stand them up about 2' from each other. You see that the caps are matching at 3-6-9-12 o'clock positions. Your driveshaft HAS to be assembled this way to be "in time". Now the yokes at the ends of the driveshaft HAVE to be in the same position as you would touch both your thumbs and middle fingers together.When you have all of these as thy should be, the driveshaft will be "in time". Do this as you are sitting at your computer to understand this concept. You will probably find something is not kosher with your driveline.

Remove the oil pressure switch and take it with you to an automotive shop and ask them about borrowing an oil pressure gauge & proper adapter to check oil pressure. As I stated it is a metric machine thread and not a NPT thread.

The switch removal procedure was tongue-in-cheek. If he rode 2 mi. w/the light on, he is probably o.k. You can drain some oil out & look for damages. The oil sender is a machine thread. Purchase or borrow a manual gauge from a mechanic or auto parts store and check the oil pressure. When lights come "on" you are meant to STOP. These lights are not for your viewing pleasure. It is cheaper to haul your bike home and diagnose it than to spend $$$$$ to fix it after it is toast!

I have an idea, take the oil pressure switch out,start the engine, if oil shoots out about 10' in a hard stream, you are pumping oil. P.S. do this outside............

Please explain the 2nd paragraph? The 90 degree one............

Roy, I am sure the coils are the same part #. Swap sides and se if the sputter follows the coil. If so, replace the coil.

Huh ?

What kind of problems is your starter having? www.euromotoelectrics.com is a good place to buy parts from.

Good! I wish them well..........

You do not chop Moto Guzzis or BMWs.... Older Triumph, BSA, Norton, H-D, etc... those are the kind of bikes that get that treatment.

Enzo, This is what I would tell my BFF. #1 The front fender has to go.It looks like Daffy Duck's bill after an accident #2 The seat cover & tank cover should be red as with the other parts. Keep the colors to a minimum. #3 Toss the tool kit. If that is what it is? #4 The exhaust thing should be a slip on from Akrapovic not Tractor Supply Co. #5 Put something less freaky on the throttle bodies. #5.1 I am not going to argue with this equation or any of the other points mentioned. #6 I would hang aroung (leave the concept bike at home first) minorities ( Negroes w/crotch rockets) w/o pissing them off, they could give you some assistance in what is cool v not cool. #7 If 21 people tell you pink leathers do not look good on you, they might be looking out for your best interests and not being pricks......