gstallons

Pavel, do you know how to use an analog or digital volt/ohmeter ?

Some time ago we discussed the Norge side/stand & kick/stand problem... There was/is a cure for the dragging in corners with full luggage. I think there is a revised stand or repair for this and I can't find the topic... Can anyone remember any TSBs or part #s for this ?

If you don't come up with one, I have one. The ones on my bike are plated but the one in my spare bolt bin is black......... Just let me know!!!!!!!!!

The PowerCommander is in series with the factory ecm. It alows you to adjust everything going through the computers factory settings for your altitude, desires, etc... The only way to go. BTW, you had better enjoy fiddling with motorcycles because the bike is almost correct and you will spend your time trying to get there.

I looked at the one on my bike. It is a 12x35mm socket head capscrew. You can get one at Fastenal. Also there is a washer beneath the bolt. The lock washers I use in these applications are called high collar lock washers. They are the same diameter as the head and will fit the bore of the hole in the frame.

Do you want the dimensions to make one?

The AMP Superseal connectors look like the ones used by General Motors. They are called Weatherpac connectors.... Probably the best thing ever made to connct wiring harnesses together.

No ! You're kidding........ I use a Ford / Motorcraft XG-12 . It is used to aid in the sealing and protecting contact points. There also is a product called Stabilant 22. It will aid in contact points of electrical connections. This is a definition for the word dielectric...........http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dielectric Make sure you want dielectric grease where it is supposed to be....

Docc, could you tack-weld a lager plate to the bottom of the spindle to keep it from falling over?

And less resistance since the it is rolling friction instead of rubbing friction.

I don't care for bullet connectors. If you can, either replace them with insulated spade connectors or just use butt connectors. The butt connectors are kind of permanent; you will have to cut / install new every time you disconnect them. When you ar eworking on this look at the integrity of the copper wire. If it has been HOT you will have to get/go/trace back in the wiring harness to find good wire to connect to. Looking at your picture I don't see anything that looks fried or melted.

The roller lifters are to stop cam lobe / lifter heel wear.

The best thing to use is from Loctite. It is a red anaerobic gasket maker that replaces the gasket . I don't remember the part #. It is sold through NAPA and other parts stores.

After years of experience (of f'ing things up) I have found to screw the nut back onto the steering stem til it is flush with the stem. Then put the socket you loosened the nut with back on the nut. You should have clearance between the socket and triple tree. After you see the clearance is adequate then hit the socket to drive the stem down and break loose... You can remove the nut and use a brass drift to drive it out the rest of the way out...... When you go back together use liberal amounts of wheel bearing grease in the cavity and bearings.

I have them on my bike. They had faded to a matte finish...... I had a buddy spray them with CLEAR....... OMG ! They look sacred now.......... p.s. The starter cover has grommets/metal bushings with acorn nuts holding it on... If they are not used you will have problems.

Kiwi Roy, et.al. will give their input............ but I think it is. Contact Palo Alto Speedo n ask one of their salesmen to be sure.

probably BOTH.

Buddy, Shops change tires and that's it. If they do ( and or smart enough to) more, you need to go back to THEM. If you can watch the service being performed , you can get an idea of the caliber of person on the other end of the wrench.

And grease the driveshaft u-joints.....

I would say your clutch / flywheel assembly is probably o.k. Drain a small amount of oil from the transmission ( and look at the drain plug ) to see what comes out with the oil ?

The acorn nuts holding the bowl onto the dash probably won't come off. You will have to send the entire assy. to them.

Palo Alto Speedometer Service in Ca. is who you should check with. They do perfect work. Not cheap but you will be satisfied. They also have a chart on their website to ( in case you think yours is off) have them calibrate your speedo/odometer also.

Does this sound happen in neutral also?

The job loks easy. Remove the oil cooler, hoses, voltage regulator,horns & brackets. Front engine mount bolts, etc... I don't know what is needed (8mm LONG threaded bolt?) to remove the alternator rotor. ALL the hex head capscrews holding the cover on then remove. If you have access to Hylomar Sealant or any other gasket sealant, NO silicone sealer apply a very spartan amount to both sides of gasket upon reassembly. Let set an hour and retorque the screws. When you install the alternator rotor make sure it is torqued properly. You don't want this to come loo$e! p.s. Remove all of the old gasket material from the cover and engine block.

Yes, the pump does prime for 2 seconds and stops. Then when you start it the pump operates.