motortouring

Hi Chuck, as we say in the Netherlands, "waar gewerkt wordt vallen spaanders". Free translation: those that do the work, are more likely to make mistakes than those that do nothing. So, I stepped in and will support you guys all the way, even if it is only on a distance and with the cost for the springs etc. I personally favor the solution according to spec. and am willing to pay for it. However, I also agree with you about the small difference in length, reducing the force only 10% and the wrong angle being the real bugger (more spring tension). I wonder what the spring bender will say. Time and machine are probably more a thing than the material.

Count my PlayMoney in, then . . . Seriously, though, if the product doesn't fit the working drawing, the manufacturer *should* square it away, yes? With docc Verstuurd met Tapatalk

It will be difficult to predict the effect of this. One thing, longer arm less force on the bend, since the spring angle stays the same or even reduces a bit. That could be a pro. Otherside: The shoulder will introduce an other direction of the force on the bend. Possible with some friction. That a con. Verstuurd met Tapatalk

Thats why track days are such a valuable thing, you can push the limits in relative safety. I think if your not doing track days then you're not serious about improving and maintaining your riding skills. Its not about setting "lap times" but about improving and learning new techniques and practicing the already known ones without the risk, like really heavy braking and looking through the corner and weighing the pegs. Things that you tend to drift away from riding on the road all the time. Every first session on the track is the re familiarise session of looking through the corner, using footpeg weight esp on the long fast corners, not trying to ride the bike all through the bars and feeling the force of really heavy braking, together with getting your brain ahead of the bikes speed. Ciao Funny how a motorcycle track day and car track day are so different. Motorcycles: keep your head up, look as far ahead as possible. Your bike will go where you look. Cars: slow to this braking point, gas at this apex, one make mark after another mark, point to point. Hmmm, LowRyter, the difference you are mentioning between Motorcycle and Car, is actually the difference between a known track and an unknown (or two way traffic) road. Apex clipping-points can improve your motorcycle speed on the track. It helps you to realize where your braking, steering and accelerating should be, and how you divide brake friction and sideward friction during the turn. It is also interesting for the old Guzzi's with Tonti-frame, braking and lowering RPM's makes the rear-end go down, this reduces the handling, the ideal line on the track is different from a Spine-frame Guzzi. On a normal road you should always see the road ahead, "the vanishing point" is an indication if you cannot see the whole turn. Interesting VID from the Aussies:

On #2 Start on the outside and use the road to steer to the inside. If you start at the outside, you can usually look further into the turn. And don't steer to early, you will have not enough road width to stay on your lane. The principle "adapt your speed to free road that you can see" is also a good way to go. It helps to focus on the free road instead of other obstacles. And to frank, my stomach was turning, when I saw the crash.

Great topic actually. I have a Aberlour Abunda'h, straight from the Cask 61.1% in the drawer. For me it's too spirited to drink straight. And mixing feels like abuse. Do any of you have a good advise on this. So, the Laproaig with the tast of an astray and boiled out gear-oil is my favorite for the time. Or just a good old Famous Grouse (I am ready for the comments :-) ), because it brings back great memories.

Can I still jump in for 2 pieces?

Credits for the photographer: Nino And for the DTP-er: Wilko of Studiotekst And the lovely model and V7

We are very liberal. Everybody that sympathizes with our brand is more than welcome. :-) And if you're coming from that distance, we will for sure not be the spoiler. Last year we had quite some visitors from the UK, actually.

I had this with an old LM2, when the oil-line to the rockers started to leak at the ring of Antwerp. My friends refer to it as "The Minardi Incicdent" https://youtu.be/td7uQYq20SQ?t=15s

Those are not mirrors, they are camera screens. The little tubes on the cylinder covers are the camera's. So it is intended to look at your knees. Good sense of humor those Italians.

Sorry for the late reply, but yes, it is now almost ready for a new modification that allows a wider rear tyre.

Sounds more like clodding in the carter ventilation.

In the V11 Sport: -Engine Kroon 10w60 - Gears Castrol SAF XJ or later synths (75w140) In the California '82: - Engine 10w40 (10 Euro / 5 liter supercheap). These specs are much better than '82 specs. - Gears also the castrol SAF XJ

Here are some historic pictures of the LM III of the avatar. More or less my lifetime project. I am now in the process of removing the lower frame and move the block and gearbox 10mm to the right. The 160/60 R18 rear wheel from Fast Pauls Daytona should then fit better.

Problem is clear now. My rear axle has a M18x1,5 thread were originally is the inbus (inside hexagon). That makes it a bit less standard to fix the axle. Solved now

Hi everybody, I try to remove my rear wheel for a tyre change. According the manual I started with the left side 27 nut. It came loose a bit, but then the axle turned along and I cannot further remove the nut. Is there a stabndard trick to proceed?

It is not the wallet, I used to ride Michelin on all my bikes. And choosing the wrong tyres (or changing too late) has more effect on the wallet,than the Mich's. But recently my tyre-specialist had such an passionate story about the new carcass of the Dunlops. So, I am interested in your opinions. But your right, I think I am gonna try the Dunlops. :-)

Thanks everybody. This gives indeed the impression that tires have all improved. My next choice will be the PR4 or Dunlop Roadsmart. I keep you informed about my experience with them.

They say you can reduce the tire-pressure to 2.0 without loosing the stiffness of the tire and in this way adjust the heating of the tire. This is because of the stiff sidewalls. Would you think this to be possible Scud?

Sorry for stiring up this "tyre-ing" and everlasting discussion Very interesting though, the stuff about changing trail depending on tyre shape. Next weight distribution and spring stiffness and damping come into the equation (and with this rider position). This theory is very easy to feel in practice. Sometimes you can feel the bike is falling in the corner, then the trail is become shorter in the first fase of turning in to the lean-angle. You probably also feel there is a moment that it is difficult to lean further. This is the opposite (trail getting longer). The old Guzzi's with the fixed end-gear climb out of the spring when you re on the throttle again (out of the corner). I always feel the extra handling at this moment (but you do't need it anymore). But, this said: Does anyone have experience with the new Dunlop Roadsmart

And what is the milage (km-stand) of this beauty?