Kiwi_Roy

Just start again, you did something wrong. You set the TPS to 154 with the RH butterfly fully closed, that's good There are several ways of adjusting the balance but they all end up the same Heres what I do for my high milage V11 A) Close both butterfly fully, there's a gap between the end of the screw and the butterfly lever. B ) Then screw the idle screws in until they just touch the throttle without opening it, I use a strip of paper as a feeler between the screw and lever setting the screws so they just grip the paper. Remember the linkage is still off and the fast idle cam is backed off, flicking the butterfly you can hear it slapping against the throttle body C) Open the air bypass screws 3/4 to 1 turn, doesn't matter as long as they are both the same Now you have both butterflys fully closed and the air bleeds both open the same, the throttles are balanced would you agree (both closed)? D) Wind in both idle screws by the same no of flats, start with 1 full turn, try to start, turn both in a bit more until its idling about 1000 revs The linkage is still off at this point. E) Now you can attach the manometer, it should be fairly close to balanced, tweak it one way or the other with one of the idle screws. So now it's perfectly balanced with the linkage off right? F) Now adjust the white knob so that the sync rod can drop on to the ball without opening either left or right throttles If you start the bike it's still balanced unless the linkage is under tension. G) Blip the throttle, the manometer will likely drift off a bit, if it does adjust the white knob a little, when you let the bike come back to idle it might be a little out so use one of the air bleeds to bring it back I realize using both idle screws is frowned on but I found my bike never idles at the same spot twice unless the butterflies are sitting on a hard stop If you prefer to use just the left one, drop the linkage on when both sides are fully closed at point C) I think its safe to say that everyone finds the procedure confusing at first all we are trying to do is get the same amount of air into each cylinder by having the same throttle opening, this we do by comparing the vacuum from one side to the other. Think of the air bleed screws like a tiny throttle in parallel to the main butterfly, they are so small they have little effect past idle. Opening them both air bleeds together will effect the idle speed, Opening or closing just one air bleed will effect the balance and to a lesser degree idle speed. Opening one while closing the other will maintain the idle speed while effecting the balance. The white knob sets the angle of one butterfly to the other, at any given throttle opening the angle should be the same.

Meinolf Please elaborate on setting the CO trim, Do you use an instrument to measure the tailpipe, does it measure CO directly or AFR? What value should you aim for? How do you change the CO trim on the 15M? My old EV has a P8 ECU with a screw, that makes a huge difference to backfire on overrun but I have no idea what it does to the exhaust.

I don't think we differ in opinion by much 6 mV over 5 Volts is only 0.12%, you will not be able to set the TPS that accurately. The TPS is only one part of the equation, engine speed, oil temperature, air temperature, atmospheric pressure, battery Voltage also figure into it, I'm sure I missed a few. I would aim for 150 but err on the high side

Setting the TPS is made out to be much more complex than it really is, the only Voltage you have to set is the 150mV (156 according to Meinolf) with the throttle fully closed. That's it, youre done, you don't touch the TPS again.

Meinolf, Excellent idea to shut the fuel off on those cells. I'm running a MyECU, it should be easy remembering to do it will be the hard part. Sent from my shoe phone!

The air bleed screws have a slight effect on mixture at idle because you can change the idle speed without changing the throttle angle. The white knob sets the throttle balance under power, has anyone tried to do that on the move? The way I interpret the 150 mV setting it's just a reference point like the survey mark down the street. The bike never operates there but as Meinolf pointed out it anchors it to the map the same as a surveyor would reference the marker before laying out the foundations. I wish people would forget about 530mV, it means nothing, just set the idle at 1100 or anywhere else you want it to idle. personally I find 1100 too fast, it takes away from the engine breaking. Last time I did my EV I just used the fast idle lever.

They are 6mm, get a pair of straight grease nipples and grind the tip off the threaded end, this will let the spring and ball pop out making a nice nipple for the balance hose. Put the screws back when finished.

You need to balance at open throttle as well, the white knob does that. One or two inches out is ok. Just blip the throttle and adjust the knob so it doesn't drift. The air bleeds balance at idle. Sent from my shoe phone!

You won't be able to wire thru the neutral switch, it's only 1 terminal to ground. If you are thinking about having a start button close to the starter it would probably be ok. Some ignition switches have a spring loaded contact that may be man enough. Think about using one of the older cube relays mounted right beside the solenoid that would keep the heavier wires really short. The relay coil wires only pass about 100 mA so they can be tiny. Think about the safety aspect, the starter should be disabled by removing the key, kids love to push buttons. Sent from my shoe phone!

If you get the magnets out by 90° the motor will run backwards. Good luck getting it to start that way Flipping the brush leads will reverse it back again. The magnets go N S N S around the clock, don't ask me what's at 12 O'clock I have no clue.

I'll ask him BTW he lives in Caracas Venezuela where it's always hot, gas is 5c per liter and there's no speed limit. I reckon we need to hold a rally down there

If the magnets are moving the motor may get weaker. If they break off they could jamb the armature. While it's cranking Measure the battery Voltage, that's the real test of condition. Measure also at the starter solenoid to chassis. And measure from negative to chassis, that will tell you how good the ground is.

At 180 Amps the motor should be spinning over fine, perhaps the magnets have let go their hold on the housing, time to pull it apart I think, they are quite easy, just lay the parts out as you take them off. Magnets falling off is quite common, I think you can buy a replacement housing. Middle Age Warrior glued his back on.

Yes, I simulated the contact not closing by removing the fat wire on LH side of the contacts, the fuse blew in about 1/2 second. As I said before as soon as the contact closes the current drops to 10 Amps Some owners have found the 15 Amp fuse pops so increase it to a 20, more so on other Guzzis I think where they have too much resistance and the solenoid sits and thinks about pulling in. I don't know what the cut-off is between pulling in or sitting there, I suspect 25 - 30 Amps but it's just a guess. BTW if you look at the sketch you posted you will see when you take the finger off current can flow backwards from the armature side of the contact thru both coils in series to chassis, In this case the strength of one solenoid is supposed to work against the other to cancel out the field. I have seen one Bosch where it wouldn't let go until the battery lead was broken

That's correct. I took a careful reading of coil Ohms doing a drop test (Valeo starter) 1.05 Ohms for the holding coil - the upper one in the sketch 0.25 Ohms for the heavy coil - the lower one going to the armature By Ohms law at 12 Volts it works out at 50 Amps In reality when I measured mine with a scope it was 37 then 10 Amps. I attributed the lower current to the wiring resistance and the armature resistance The Bosch starter has a much heavier winding on the armature but the solenoid coils draw a similar high current. BTW the Valeo starter on my bike draws 170 Amps, the Bosch ones seem to draw a bit less, around 150 Where did you find that sketch? I'll send you a PM

About 50 Amps but just for a split second, as soon as the contacts close it drops down to 10 Amps There are 2 coils in the solenoid the heavy current one (~40 Amps) that's in series with the armature, this does the lion's share of the work then when the contacts are closed it has the same Voltage on both ends so current drops to zero. The lighter one (~10 Amps) helps to pull the solenoid in but then it holds it in place as long as the button (relay) is closed. BTW this is the main reason other model Guzzis suffer from "Startus Interuptus" they have the current run through the ignition switch and miles of spaghetti, too much resistance for the current required. See if you can find a Guzzi schematic that shows 2 coils, I wonder if they are aware of it? If you were to measure the current with a meter you would only see 10 Amps because the heavy current only lasts about 1/4 second, if it goes much longer the 15 Amp fuse will pop. The relays are rated for an inrush of 60 Amps. If you are thinking about doing away with the relay keep in mind Voltage drop due to the high current, keep the wires short, a 20 Amp fuse is appropriate.

Stunning scenery in the first few pictures, where abouts? The Guzzis look nice too. Sent from my shoe phone!

There's no such thing as a guzzi too far away, think about the fun you will have bringing it home. Kiwi_Roy - Have tent, will travel. Sent from my shoe phone!

The filler drain plugging is a common problem on the Guzzis with steel tank and sunken filler (EV, Jackal etc). Water from rain or washing collects under the cap and drops in un-noticed next time its filled. The water causes the tank to rust, the rust plugs the filter, the bike starts to bog down on the hills. Heres what came out of my filter after back flushing, it completely plugged off the shop cloth. And this is after I did it on the side of the road To unplug the tank drain is a two beer job.

I think most of the oil squirts back into the sump from the pressure relief valve without going to the bearings. Adding a larger pump just squirts more back surely.

I don't see the point of the security bolt when you can drop the contact block off with a Philips scewdriver Sent from my shoe phone!

Well I guess since you put it that way

I like the repairs Marty made, the linkage on my V11 at 80,000km is very sloppy, to get a consistent idle I use both idle screws, over the winter I will try to find a suitable bush Links and levers are interesting, there's 3 different adjustments possible, zero (throttle stop), span (length of the lever) and linearity (length of the rod) In instrumentation 101 we were taught to adjust zero and span then check the mid point for linearity, adjust the linearity until it's 5 x worse then re-do zero and span, not that this really applies to the V11. Any other Instrument techs out there?

I used to fix a lot of old radios for friends and workmates, I didn't really know what I was doing but usually got lucky. Electric phonographs were a novelty, I would snip the wire going to the volume control and wire in a phone jack so they could plug the phonograph in. Valves are fascinating, I was lucky enough to do my apprenticeship before they were phased out. Sent from my shoe phone!

Don't feel bad, just be a good caretaker for the next owner. Oh, and post a picture so we can be envious. Sent from my shoe phone!