Kiwi_Roy

Danl, I tried unscrewing the holder with no luck, I got so mad I grabbed it and wrenched, popped right out. Spray a little soapy water around the grommet, that might help.

Phill, as you have seen the Voltage drop through the headlight relay (it must be about 1 Volt) is causing the overcharging because the regulator thinks the battery is flat so it cranks up the charge. On my 2001 V11 Sport the headlight current also passes through the normally closed contact of the start relay (most bikes use that contact to just feed the headlight relay coil) Eventually it will take care of itself by melting the diode leads off inside the regulator then you will have an under charging issue. charging current to Voltage is some sort of exponential relationship I found just wiggling the relays in their sockets caused the Voltage to drop back to normal (about 0.6) One option is to add headlight relays powered direct from the battery bypassing the existing wiring so you don't get the Voltage drop Or fit a direct connected regulator like the Electrosport. then put a single relay in the headlight bucket to select High/Low filament, you will notice a significant increase in brightness.

I also run the Omron GH8N-1C2T-R-DC12 the Z2247-ND is just a number that Digikey add to it for their purposes. The last batch I got were made in Italy so the Guzzi can hardly reject those eh! When you order relays consider purchasing a couple of microswitches Digikey CH290-ND Cherry part No DC1C-A1AA, they are not an exact match for the clutch & brake but pretty close. www.digikey.com in the search box Z2247-ND or CH290-ND Radio Shack used to stock a microswitch with a roller lever, tear the lever off and it works too, that's what I have on my clutch at the moment, it's not waterproof but refuses to die.

I was working on my bike so I tried, yes you have to wiggle and pull hard, the grommets are fitted into tabs welded to the chassis so no fear of breaking those.

Craig beat me to it Sent from my shoe phone!

Zooter, when I went to school in Aotearoa we still had dental nurses, they would often give you a few drops of Hg in a drill box. You took it back to class and dropped it on the floor. I guess that explains my odd behaviour eh! Sent from my shoe phone!

You could try a 12 Volt LED on it or a regular LED in series with a 1k resistor. Remember the long lead goes to Red/Black. It's a bit silly really because the error code resets when you turn the key off, test it by unplugging a sensor. Sent from my shoe phone!

It's the warning light connector shown on my schematic as (44) It should flash a code similar to the P8 ECU Sent from my shoe phone!

Sorry about the typos earlier, shoe phone self correcting problem or was it my fat fingers on the tiny screen? So although your bike never had an electric petcock the fuse No 8 is still wired to the wire that goes to relay No 4, is that correct?

Zooter, Can you do us a favour and see if the fuse holder is alive, you will have the key On and ready to start, see if it turns over first perhaps, Thanks Roy

If you were to unplug the ECU and unplug the TPS you could easily check with an Ohmmeter if the mysterious wires are connected to the TPS. If you are indeed getting 1.5 Volts at the slider you need to reset it for sure. There's quite a bit of confusion as to how the TPS is wired, if I look at the various schematics for bikes with the 15M ECU almost half show the slider as pin C of the TPS going to pin 11 of the ECU, the other half show the slider as pin B of the TPS again going to pin 11 of ECU but the odd one shows the slider going to ECU pin 1 TPS pin A seems to be chassis in all cases From pin A to the slider will vary in Ohms with throttle position From pin A to the other end of the potentiometer will not vary with throttle position The TPS has extra circuitry inside, it's not just a simple Rheostat as the schematics show. the resistance doesn't vary in a linear fashion as the schematics would have you believe. I think pin 1 of the ECU is the reference Voltage 5 VDC .

By 2004 they had deleted the Petcock at least that's what Carl's drawing shows but the fuse was still there, I wouldn't be surprised if it was still wired up, a good supply for GPS perhaps Scroll down to find the drawings http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/sportissimo.html Only the gif option works for me I said Scroll down, not look at Carl's girlfriend BTW if you want to look at the wiring below the fuse holder don't try to unscrew it like I did, just grab it and wiggle, its plugged into a pair of rubber grommets.

What colour are the wires? You won't normally see 150 mV on the TPS, it would be about 400 mV once the idle speed is set. I don't think the 2 wires are TPS but who knows what a PO may have done, I just identified the wire on mine and put a connector adjacent to the plug. A blue butt connector makes a cheap meter jack. Sent from my shoe phone!

Scuds, Instead of swapping the drivetrain over to the LH side just move the prop stand to the right. Vincent's had a stand on both sides or at least mine did, I mostly used the left but now and then the right worked best. Sent from my shoe phone!

I couldn't have said it better. When I pulled my V11 out after the winter it wouldn't, I looked under the seat and my lamp was only glowing at half brightness and flickering, it turned out to be the side-stand switch. It would have been quite hard to track that down using a multimeter but the lamp is so visual. I don't have a lamp on the petcock fuse, mine is on the contact of relay 4, the relay was buzzing away, probably dropping below 3 Volts on the coil I can only imagine what this was doing to the ECU The petcock fuse is a better point to monitor, across the relay coil. And Zooter, I don't thing the condition of the ignition switch has anything to do with miles, more like years, The grease in the switch becomes hard with age holding the contacts apart, with some fresh Vaseline it will feel like a new switch.

You need someone in the US to buy it for you and ship it over as a gift. I would offer but I have an extra step to get it into Canada

There's a single way connector on the line going to the ECU relay. Another way is to place the lamp across the ECU relay No 4. I believe if you have a bad connection proir to that point the ECU relay starts to drop out and cause the ECU to reset. I talked a friend into cleaning his ignition switch, he claimed the bike ran much better afterwards. I don't think the V11s suffer from Startus Interuptus like most of the other Guzzis so the switch can get really bad before it shows up, I measured mine it read 18 Ohms, I'm sure it was much worse at times. It's a 1 beer job to fix the switch, you don't remove the lock just the contact block, 2 Allen screws.

I think you need to replace it but think about sending it back to Electrosport, don't they have some sort of warrantee? At the very least talk to them about it http://www.electrosport.com/ask-a-parts-expert

I believe the only reason for setting the base line at 150 is so the TPS is not jambed against the stop at either end of travel. I had a fuel mixture meter on my bike for a while and found I could vary the mV +/- 100 mV with very little effect on the mixture ratio. The funny looking clock is a pot that allowed me to offset the TPS mV on the fly adding or subtracting 200 mV from baseline. The mixture meter's showing 22.4 because the engine's not running, I think normal is about 14 from memory. I mounted the O2 sensor in the crossover.

I'm planning a trip back to New Zealand next year, a month motorcycle camping, I spent a lot of time browsing Trademe, Guzzis are few and far between so I started looking at beemers. It seemed to me these K bikes were under-appreciated so I found an 88 K100RT which I won for NZ$2200 I haven't seen the bike yet, my Brother KiwiKev went around and found the old girl stored in a nice dry storage locker, carpet on the floor no less. It wasn't running because the fuel pump had gummed up with lack of use but he's pretty handy and soon fixed that and had it purring away, he reckons it's a keeper. 1000cc, 4 cylinder double overhead cam, water cooled, 90 Horsepower, what's not to like? Sorry I don't have any good pictures yet http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/Kiwi_Roy/slideshow/BMW%20K100 I can't wait for his ride report.

I think 22 mA is high, the ECU draws a little, I assume to hold it's memory If the Ducati Energia regulator is left on it draws about 15 mA, I think that;s why they have it on the headlight relay, so its powered down. A direct connected Voltage regulator like an Electrosport will draw about 0.5 mA Calculate the hours it will take to drain the battery e.g. your battery is 10 AH but let's call it half charged at 5 5 / 0.022 = 227 hours, it will be flat in 9 days Do you have a GPS adapter wired in, they seem to draw quite a bit even without the unit plugged in.

I used my damper once, frightened the crap out of me riding slow in a car park so now I just leave it backed right off. Someone should invent one that changes the damping at low speed.

Glad you figured it out, see elect rickety is not so scary after all, serves you right for going so fast, I would never do that LOL. It's the main reason I ride my older Guzzis the most. The VII Sport will get me into serious trouble.

That's low, mine has double that, I'm pretty sure they are original.

The connections for the clutch switch will only effect starting, once it's running they have no effect. I keep saying "Monitor fuse 8 with a small lamp" Fuse 8 is alive - you have power to the bike's brain aka ECU Fuse 8 is dead then the bike won't crank over - look to the ignition switch, kill switch, side-stand circuit TomekSZ, I will send you a message