Kiwi_Roy

Bad case of gravel rash

The battery Voltage is effected by the headlight relay and in some cases by the start relay Voltage drop. It's also effected by the bike wiring and lamp selection, if you have headlight relays powered directly from the battery the drop will be less, larger headlight bulb it will be more. You can measure the Voltage drop from battery Positive to the black wire at the relay with the key on. Measure it then cycle the relays, you might be surprised how much it changes especially if the relays haven't been touched in quite a while.

Why not just get GuzziDiag and change the mixture settings. I found that running pods on my V11 Sport seems to give it a flat spot at mid revs If you can add some intake velocity stacks.

My speed sensor fits in the gearbox where the cable was, it's just a magnet spinning near a reed switch no bearings or machining required. I don't seem to be able to post a picture at the moment

No, it will barely get warm (0.1 Watts @ 10 mA) Why not leave it on all the time out of normal vision that way it's always ready. It would be possible to arrange it to only come on when there's a fault but that's not as simple to wire. BTW a source of 12V LEDs is www.superbrightleds.com They have a section devoted to motorcycles My favorite dash lamp is the type 194, it has a built in rectifier so no need to worry about polarity Don't worry about a holder for LEDs, just solder the wires to the base, more reliable that way.

I too thought you were exposing yourself "flashing" Sent from my shoe phone!

No - the 12Volt lamps have a resistor built in. A typical small LED like you have draws a max if 15 mA, a 1k resistor will give you about 10 mA, plenty bright enough. Sent from my shoe phone!

You cannot use an LED by itself on 12 Volts, you need a resistor in series, 1k is about right. The long lead on the LED is Positive.

The H/L beams share the same supply on most bikes. On mine the horn is also on the same fuse. The flasher not working is a mystery, did you change out the whole switch? With the key on all. fuses should be Do you have a schematic for your bike, which year & model? Sent from my shoe phone!

My VII Sport had those labels until I took it to the dealer, he said follow me and produced some the same size reading VII Sport. Sent from my shoe phone!

Yes, if you jamb a wire in with fuse 8 and the other end in with fuse 1 or 2 the ECU will be ready to go and the bike will crank over. The only thing is you have no way of shutting it down so better to include a switch also.

Something like that, I suspect the Voltage has to drop well below 6 Volts before the ECU relay will drop out Perhaps you could mount it on a bracket so it's normally out of sight and swing it out when needed, I just have mine under the seat but when I was having intermittent faults I had a lamp in the brake lever pivot point with a wire draped across the tank.

If I get a chance I will measure them up, they are sitting side by each in my garage.

The V11s have an open shaft, the California is in the swing arm, I don't know if that makes a difference. The wheels on my 98 EV are nice tubeless spoked.

It's very hard to tell if a relay is working by looking at it. Swapping them around may fix it for a while this is why I always recommend having a small light you can wire in temporarily to monitor various points for example fuse 8. Fuse 8 is a very useful point because it's just before the ECU, if the power gets that far the bike will probably run. If you use a small wire you can also wrap it around a relay pin or probe various points for power. It is useful to remember that with the key On terminal 30 of all relay sockets should be at 12 Volts. Also, when the relay coil is energized terminal 87 will be alive. (try this with your test lamp wrapped around the pin) I recommend everyone should carry a 12 Volt LED with about 4 feet of wire soldered to each terminal, the negative wire you wrap around a suitable ground point e.g. bolt the positive is used as a probe or wired to a point you want to monitor, this can also be useful if you have to work on the bike in the dark. I usually carry a direction indicator lamp for this, use an LED because unlike an incandescent it's very hard to destroy, always check the lamp is working by touching it across the battery first.

Yes inspect the relay sockets, make sure they grip the pins sand make sure the connector doesn't push out the back, I will send you a PM when I get to work. Sent from my shoe phone!

You said earlier "the neutral light is blinking", I think that is a good clue. Please tell us what year your bike was manufactured, what model. http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1999_V11_sport.gif If the neutral light was blinking on this one I would first look at the ignition switch, it may have a broken wire or very dirty contacts. See how terminal (J) of the switch feeds the light and also important relays Do not try to remove the lock, just unscrew the two Phillips screws underneath removing just the switch, the lock stays in the bike. Disconnect the battery first. Here is a switch where the wire has broken because it was bending at the joint.

I have never used GuzziDiag (I have one of Cliffs ECUs) but I imagine if you could attach a hose to the pressure opening you would be able to suck the pressure down and watch the effect on the injector timing or see the pressure change. If I recall it's quite easy to drop the pressure by 50 kPa http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/air-altitude-pressure-d_462.html Suppose you had 20 kPa worth of tank suck at 10,000 feet the pump suction pressure would be Do we have any process engineers on board?

I very much doubt the sensor failed, they are available because I bought one to replace the original I robbed for the MyECU. I wonder if GuzziDiag has a readout for Altitude, if so you could suck on the sensor to prove it out. If the vent was blocked off I would fix that first, the fuel pump may have been starved with the combination of high elevation and tank suck. Do you recall if it ran better some times, like after filling up?

Right inside on the circuit board, small round thing.

Your ECU has a barometric sensor that's supposed to take care of altitude, is it possible that's plugged off? Sent from my shoe phone!

Am I the only one with a non GPS speedo? Mine doesn't have the delay What other options does the GPS give you? Altitude?

I installed a spring in the monkey-paw trap, I believe that guarantees it will never be needed. BTW spring breakage is not confined to the VII, the one in my Eldorado gearbox snapped while I had it apart, the replacement had 3 coils instead of just 2 like the original. Sent from my shoe phone!

The dapper looking guy and his Daughter, won the best dressed at the Distinguished Gentlemans ride. The Eldorado was a beaut, signed on the rear fender by Indian Joe whoever that is. Sent from my shoe phone!

If there's any flexing of the wires near a soldered joint they quickly work harden and snap off.