Kiwi_Roy

I started reading this thread then realized I was reading posts from 2008 so I skipped to page 8 I have been buying regular Omrons from Digikey made in USA or in the case of the last batch made in Italy http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/G8HN-1C2T-R%20DC12/Z2247-ND/765512 http://www.components.omron.com/components/web/PDFLIB.nsf/0/A140CFCA6C49AD6685257201007DD4E2/$file/G8HN_0607.pdf Things I have discovered Relay No 5 ECU Power relay The fuel pump draws about 4.5 amps unless the fuel filters blocked where it can draw about 9 Each injector will draw 1 amp Each coil will draw 17 Amps That all adds up to 22.5 Amps The relay base connectors build up a little resistance with time, you should pull them out and put back at least once a year, this gives the pins a bit of a scratch to get rid of any oxide, I smear the base with a little Vaseline so the pins draw it into the connector. The nature of coils (ignition and injectors) makes me think you need a really good connection to get a fast rise time on the voltage Relay No 1 (Start relay) This will draw 50 amps, it's simple Ohms Law but only for a split second, not a problem for the Omron. I'm sure you are all aware of "Startus Interuptus" caused by Luigi wiring other Guzzi start relays in series with the ignition switch, he got our spine frame bikes right IMHO Relay No 2 (Headlight relay) On my 2001 the contact was fed from the Normally Closed contact of the Start relay, other bikes just use the Start relay to switch the Headlight relay coil. Since the base connectors can build up a little resistance this can throw off the Ducati Energia Voltage regulator which measures the Voltage downstream to control the battery Voltage upstream. I don't believe coil suppression is an issue, the coils should not be switching at all while you are riding. (the Omrons have a resistor) As someone pointed out Luigi wasn't very fussy where he put positive. I believe Luigi did a good job on the ECU wiring, powering it direct from the battery through a pair of relays. It's very important that relay 4 never drops out, this will cause the ECU to reset, I have seen the Voltage on mine flickering away on several occasions as the stand switch sizzles. I have the stand relay bypassed at the moment Another time I experienced it dropping out when the ignition switch resistance was too high. Here's what I did with mine over the first winter, created a little light show http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/Kiwi_Roy/slideshow/Relay%20LEDs You can easily create a Test Relay to move from slot to slot Last of all here is how you can tighten up the relay sockets, be careful, if you break the connectors they aren't easy to find. I helped fix a bike recently where one of the connectors had come unclipped, it was just making contact due to the spring in the wire.

A good regulator ground is very important with the Ducati Energia because the charging current goes back to the alternator via the ground to regulator case. The two internal SCRs are bolted to the case However some of the after market regulators have a separate negative wire, there's nothing internal connected to the case so they would be just fine hanging loose It's very important to inspect the main battery ground, if that works loose starting current will try to find it's way back to the battery by one of the small ground wires, like the one from regulator case letting out the magic smoke as happened here. I have toyed with the idea of chopping off the OEM ground and just relying on the strap to chassis which would avoid this situation when the main ground comes loose but it might create a different problem, at least the tiny ground wire keeps the bike running. Here's where I found mine, underneath the seat release lock (small screw), luckily I caught it in time. I moved it to, a gearbox bolt, in plain view. If ever you experience really weak starting suspect the main ground for sure.

If your regulator has two wires that connect to the battery (Positive & Negative) it may not need to be grounded. I would still have an in-line 30 Amp fuse next to the battery, it's cheap insurance.

Piece of cake, when you change the back tire, disconnect the suspension, loosen off the two swing arm pivots, remove the two pinch bolts clamping the front uni joint and drop it right out. A word of caution, when replacing the two pinch bolts be very careful to center the holes with the indent in the shaft otherwise the treads will chew off the bolts. Make sure the factory paint marks line up if you uncouple the spline at all.

Really with a fuel injected system a petcock shouldn't be required, the injectors are closed. Remove some parts for a temporary fix as Hubert says. Perhaps the previous owner already did that, are the wires still there? Easy to check just loosen the hose and see if fuel squirts out. I still like the electric petcock on my bikes, makes removing the tank easier. For a permanent fix, do as Docc says and strap the wires to the body with a ty-wrap for good measure.

That's great news, glad you got it sorted.

Only between spine and air box, The spine drain is still to the sump.

The filter on mine gets dirty but I doubt it drips, as foto says, "don't mess with something Guzzi got right"

When I took the airbox off mine I ran that hose down below the gearbox and finished it off with a K&N crankcase breather filter. The return from spine to sump remains. Even the old loops have a tank on the crankcase vent with a line back to the sump, it dips in below the surface to form a liquid seal.

Pardon me but the plug on this cable doesn't look like it will fit the 3 pin Guzzi connector on my V11 Sport I ordered the 2 part cable off ebay months ago, I only received 1/2

Does the cam bushing get held in by the valve lube fitting like on a loop? I'm too lazy to go and look.

By cold weld I think you are referring to tiny cracks around the pins, that's a sign of pressure on the connector, once your technician has re-soldered them you should be good to go. Re-install the ECU with the plug underneath so the seat doesn't push down on the connector. Consider tapping into the wire from the ECU slider (pin 11) so it's easy to set the TPS, just solder to the wire where the previous owner joined the loom. Check all the joints he made, solder and heatshrink if possible and you won't have any more trouble.

Check the battery ground where it connects to the chassis, that's about the only thinng that would stop it cranking with a car battery jumpered across, either that or you don't have a good jumper connection. Test your meter on another battery, say the car to prove it's ok. Make sure your headlight is on with the key otherwise the Voltage reg will not turn on and the battery will go flat.

Yes, I was faced with the same problem, I searched the hardware and auto stores then I noticed a 6mm grease nipple looked similar. You just have to grind or file the tip off the threaded end to let the spring and ball out. If you are attaching plastic tube you need to fasten it on or it will fall off as the engine heats up, I found a rubber tube that just slipped over the plastic, it keeps the tension on.

Adding a test light is good for measuring Voltage, as you say if you have a weak circuit it will pull the Voltage down but for Ohms all you need is a meter. its not so easy to figure out the Ohms with a circuit in parallel, 1/R = 1/R1 + 1/R2 etc To measure Ohms a digital meter is probably more accurate than an analog type. Sometimes if you get an odd reading switch the probes around, if you get a different reading something is adding some Voltage to the circuit, a corroded joint for instance. To measure low resistance electricians pass a current through the circuit and measure the Voltage drop, you can measure down to micro-Ohms that way. Similarly the diode range of a meter applies a current through a resistor to the diode and the meter measures the Voltage drop across the diode A test light or analog meter measuring Voltage will indicate a rapid change in Voltage better than a digital meter. I particularly like LEDs as their response is instant.

I think your first reading was 2.24 Kohms Since you have the joints in the loom find the wire that connects to pin #11 and make this available for future TPS Voltage measurements. The Voltage reference to battery negative (chassis) should go smoothly from about 500mV to 4.5 Volts as you slowly open the throttle. If the tachometer works it's ok the reading shows it's connected.

Before you pull the ECU apart check the wires to the plug. If you can find an old computer serial cable the pins make a good test tool. You mentioned earlier that the loom had been chopped and re-joined, inspect those connections first. From the joint you should be able to check continuity to the plug. As fotoguzzi says If the ECU is mounted with the plug on top sometimes the seat will push down on it and may crack the circuit board, often around the pins, it's usually quite easy to fix, find the crack and solder a strand of wire across it or re-solder the pins.

Originally the wiring loom went down below the seat release key then back up to the ECU. I suspect the previous owner shortened the loom and re-routed it along the top frame when he changed from the stock airbox to pods, I did that with mine. If the joints are properly soldered and insulated there's nothing wrong with that, there's many soldered joints in the original loom. Can you take a picture of the worst part. If the loom on-line is cheap enough why not but you will have the problem of it being too long, I just folded mine back under the tank.

Hubert. At one time my bike was showing the coughing spitting symptoms, it was running but barely. I found the ignition switch was reading 18 Ohms and so I concluded that relay 4 was fluttering, cleaning the switch fixed it. Good point about the relay base, I fixed a bike recently where a connector had pushed out the back of base and was just touching the relay pin I will send MAW a sketch of how to pull the pins out if they need tightening. Also check that the fuse clips are nice and tight. The fuse holder pulls off so you can check the wires at the rear. It looks like screws hold it in but it just plugs into a couple of rubber grommets.

Slowkitty said "Press hard on the cowl and turn the key" I often have to do this, it takes all the tension off the latch

The coughing and spitting could be the ECU dropping out due to a high resistance in one of the following Ignition Switch Side-stand Switch Engine Run Switch aka Kill Switch The easy way to eliminate these 3 is to monitor the Voltage at fuse 8 with a small lamp to chassis, it should stay ON, no flickering. Use the sketch I sent earlier to measure the switches.

Don't do that, pulling the fuse or relay disables the Voltage regulator/charging. Unplug the 4 way connector under the headlight to save power.

I'm guessing that when the unit is not in use all the mercury would disappear into the 1 x 4 reservoir so its really 4 separate vacuum gauges. It may still have mercury in it but I wouldn't use it that way. Mercury is now considered a hazardous substance, spill just one drop on your garage floor and it will put you over the current "Safe Limit" As it was it would compare the manifold vacuum to atmospheric pressure so it needed mercury. If you fill it to the point say 25% full scale and the reservoir is sealed it will act as a differential type comparing one manifold to the other (not to atmosphere) so it doesn't need a heavy fluid. The unused tubes would also need to remain capped otherwise you will suck air With oil it will also be about 15 x more sensitive. Really I think you should just screw it on the wall as a talking point. I have my manometer filled with oil, it rarely goes more than about a foot out of balance before I shut down and tweak the screws.

Yes, along with the idiot lights and the Voltage regulator/charging. You must also have a 5 pin start relay to power the headlight relay. It works when everything is perfect http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1999_V11_sport.gif

The tacho gets power from the headlight relay, check your light is on. It also needs a good ground. There are two one way connectors (7) & (58)in the pulse signal from the ECU http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1999_V11_sport.gif The schematic shows 2 grounds, one for the lamp another for the electronics. Might I suggest a different method Leave the LH idle stop where it is (520 mV setting), take the linkage off When you take off the linkage the TPS mV should drop back to 150 (RH throttle fully closed, I assume you are only using the LH screw to this point) Wind the RH idle stop in to get 520 mV So now in theory both left and right throttle bodies should be the same correct? (the linkage is still disconnected and the bypass screws are both still 1/2 turn) Start the bike and using LH idle stop fine tune the balance. If the revs are too far off turn both idle stops in or out by the same No of flats, it should stay in balance. At his point if the bike is idling a little rough you could try combinations of air bleed/throttle stops to get the idle ok Now you have the idle speed and balance bang on re-connect the linkage adjusted so it doesn't upset all the hard work. Now try the high speed balance using the knob, it should not upset the idle. Sooner or later you will find a happy combination of different methods, One thing, is it possible you have a more serious problem like a burnt valve that is throwing it off, a compression test perhaps remembering to hold the throttle wide open as it cranks over.