Kiwi_Roy

Raz, That's very clever!!!! Did you guys see that, he's using the Oil pressure switch so that the headlight doesn't come on until the engines running (the switch is left on low beam) He's added the two diodes around the relays so that each beam has a backup supply, If the main fuse blows it feeds through the diode all be it a bit weaker. My hats off to you Raz, I'm going to steal that idea. I had already figured out how to bypass the start relay with the headlight feed Roy

Yes, that's a project I want to do, I don't like the way headlight goes thru sooooo many contacts. I would also like to have it so the headlight doesn't come on as soon as you turn on the ignition. I saw somewhere someone suggesting two relays for High / Low beam. I will post how I added LEDs to the relay bases when I get time. I will be trying out an idea for offsetting the TPSensor shortly, that may be of interest also. Regards Roy Refer to the drawing from Raz 16-April-2010 under "Headlight Losses" topic, thats what I will be doing. His scheme gives the lamp 2 possible supplies, if the main fuse blows the diode will conduct and supply the lamp at a slightly reduced voltage. With this simple fix you could get up to 30% more light. Roy

OldButNotDead, Bjor, I have quite a bit more detail to add yet like wire colours, relay base and a couple of errors to fix. Later on I will tackle the lights and ECU wiring but as a seperate drawing. Can't promise a Norwegan version though. Glad you like it. Roy

Ok Guys, Heres my latest. I am not getting as much response as I thought. Please give your comments, good, bad or ugly Attachment removed, see first post in the string for latest - Roy May 18 Thanks Roy

It may be the switch contacts just making enough to power the light but with too much resistance for the starter coil. Take a look at the schematic I posted under topic "Simple Wiring Schematic". It shows the way things are connected in series If you have a multimeter you should read 12V at TP-h when you press the start button. If not unplug the relay R3 TP-b is before the Neutral switch, TP-c after. If you think its the neutral switch try jumpering from TP-b to TP-c with a short piece of wire thus bu-passing that whole circuit. A word of warning, make doubly sure the bike is in Neutral. Roy

Perhaps your relay base is at fault. If you unbolt it from the frame check that all the connectors are pushed home properly. Or perhaps the contact needs to be squeezed together a bit. You can slide the connectors out by releasing the clip from the top. I use a pop rivet nail with the tip filed to a chisel shape. I modified my relay bases adding an LED so I can see at a glance which ones are energized. I smeared the base with petroleum jelly, this protects the contacts from corrosion and makes the relays easier to get in and out. The fuel pump relay also supplies power to the injectors and coils. Roy

My V11 is the same, just open to atmosphere, I suspect it's just a standard regulator. If you connect it to the manifold the fuel pressure will drop.

Guzzi diagram calls it the Safety Diode, it stops the ECU Relay picking up if the battery is backwards.

My thoughts on it were to protect the ECU if someone were to inadvertently connect the battery backwards Your thoughts on the neutral light are noted It's almost impossible to get a schematic right first time through Thanks Roy

Hi Guys, I have been helped out a lot by some of you recently so i thought i might be able to add the benefit of 40+ years electrical troubleshooting. To this end I took the schematic for my V11 and tried to show in semi ladder diagram fashion how the main wiring is arranged. Note: I completely ignored non-essential wiring, lights flashers etc and the complex wiring around the ECU. Those can be identified in different drawings, I just wanted to show the wiring I think most of the problems occur in. Please take a look and offer any comments, preferably in a marked up drawing scanned and sent back. Regards Kiwi_Roy Many thanks to Raz, Docc, Gstallons and any others who supplied valuable feedback from here or by PM Ok, i have the right files now April 27 2010 Sorry Guys I just noticed that my ECU Test Points dwg was out of date Please replace with this one May 12 2010 May 16th Update I recently discovered how important the headlight wiring is, without it the Tacho won't work and the charging stops so I updated the wiring as well showing how the regulator needs 12 volts. I changed the relay style so that it's consistent with the other drawings and arranged the same as in reality. The starter motor solenoid now shows the 2 coil arrangement. BTW, see Raz's headlight relay schematic about 16 posts down, I implemented this, works great. Regards Roy Test Point Layout May 10 2010.pdf ECU Test Points May 12 2010.pdf Guzzy_Wiring May 16 2010.pdf

Bob, When you drop the pan, do you change the gasket each time? What do you use in the way of gasket cement? BTW, good picture of the hose clamp, I will follow the example. Thanks Roy

So that's what that loose nut in the tool kit is for, I have been puzzling over that. Thanks for the tip Roy

I feel guilty about all the questions I'm posting, I'm new to Guzzi. I have a good understanding of general topics having ridden British bikes and a Suzuki. And have some expertize with electrics. My Question Is there an after market oil filter cross reference, Fram, Canadian Tire etc My V11 has the large black round cover on the bottom of the sump. Is this just a cover over the filter housing or will oil pour out if I unscrew it? The cover needs a special tool, is this just part of the normal filter removal device sold at auto stores or a special Guzzi only? Thanks again Roy

I think you can also do the job with a flexible hose if the wheel is removed. I thought I had mine connected up over the swing arm but after removing the shaft I found the nozzle needed a flat on one side before it would slip in properly. A few strokes with a file is all it took. The swivel is a better way Roy

My V11 Sport (Canadian Edition) has several hoses connecting to the frame, 3 I think. I looked in the manual and parts list, neither shed any light, I assume this is some sort of breather system, can anyone elaborate. Thanks Roy

If you unplug the cable and connect your multimeter on the Ohms scale it should go smoothly from a low value to high as you work the throttle. Alternately it should go from 150 - 4800 odd mV smoothly. If not This has been my experience with other rheostats, radios, control equipment etc. Often the grease that's applied to the surface gets hard with age causing the wiper to loose contact. It can be improved by cleaning the contacting surface with a solvent of some type, perhaps electronic cleaner from Radio Shack. You may not have to pull it apart just spray into an opening (i haven't looked at mine to see how it's put together) It might be worth a try anyway before you shell out for a new sensor. Regards Roy

Next time it happens, pull a plug out and check the spark. Does the fuel pump fire up for a few seconds when you turn the key on? Try swaping the relays around, see if the symptoms change. I assume it cranks over OK Roy

Yes, I am a journeyman Instrument Mechanic. Manometers are used to accurately measure low pressures. A normal Bourdon tube vacuum gauge has a range equivalent to a manometer 32 feet tall so your setup is far more accurate for a fraction of the cost. I will leave my modified grease nipples in place and cap them off. Regards Roy

I have the parts manual, I will take a look, thanks, Roy

When I put mine back I just set it with the same number of threads on both sides, Even then there's no threads projecting from the nut. Can it really be that important to line front and back to the nearest mm? I don't like the sound of those 8 ft flouro tubes, sounds like bit dangerous. A 2 x 4 would be safer, flip it over and average the reading. Roy

Thanks guys it looks like the washer is supposed to be there then. The previous owner was very picky about such things. I will take your advice and service the bearing. Regards Roy Update I looked at the part manual today, sure enough it shows the washer. I think I will stick it in place with a couple of spots of silicone so it doesn't drop down between the fork and inner bearing next time the wheel comes out. Roy

I pulled the rear wheel on my V11 Sport to get new tires fitted. If I look at the axle it has shiny spots as though the bearings have been spinning on it/ The bearings feel fine but I am wondering if a spacer or something is missing From the right hand side I have Large flat washer about 20 thou thick with a large hole (about 1") Transmission Spacer about 5/8 thick (item D in manual) Wheel Brake caliper The picture in manual doesn't show the large washer, I'm wondering if it's supposed to be there The hole in it looks as though it will fit outside the transmissions inner sleeve. Can someone confirm if it's required. Thanks in advance Roy

Guzz - I added my experience to another thread on removing the swing arm. Yes, I think I could lube it in-situ next time now I have filed the gun's nozzle to fit. It turns out that someone had butchered the two pinch bolts on the front universal so I'm glad I pulled it out. Cheers Roy

Your gauge looks like the Delux model LOL, it even has a scale! Slide a short length of rod inside or tubing outside and make a right angle bend at the corner, that will take care of the kink. My bike just had socket head screws but no tube between the bodies as mentioned in the write ups. Your manometer is much more accurate than using two gauges, I worked for many years as an instrument technician, That's what we used to measure low pressures accurately and where the unit "Inches of water" & "Inches of Mercury" come from. "Inches of ATF" in your case. A normal vacuum gauge has a range equivalent to a 32 foot tall manometer full of water with an accuracy of +/-1/2% (+/- 1.9 inches Water Column) so the differential reading could be out by as much as 2 x 1.9. The only thing that will mess your gauge is air bubbles in one side or two different fluids. Nice clean bench, mine is 3 layers deep in junk. Regards Roy

I just did my driveshaft today. Remove the two large bolts and the swing arm moves out of the way quite easily, there's no spring load on it and no need to disconnect the shock. When you replace the driveshaft be very careful lining up the pinch bolt holes with the reduced portion on the spline. If it doesn't line up properly the threads will catch on the splines. A couple of the bolts on my bike have been stripped that way. (you have to remove the bolts before you can pull off the universal joint) When replacing the swing arm pivots it's quite difficult to get the thread started without crossing it. I found if you run the nut up next to the pork chop it's quite easy to see if its straight. Put both pivot bolts loosely in place first, this lines up the swingarm. I ran the pivots up to where they just pinched the bearings, you can slide the swing arm from side to side before it pinches. In hindsight it should be possible to grease the front universal without removing the shaft, I tried this using a flexible hose up over the swing arm but couldn't get the end to snap on the the nipple. When I finally got the shaft out I had to file a couple of flats on the nozzle to get it to fit between the 2 halves of the universal. (even with it out I had to do that) Don't forget to line up the two marks if you pull the shaft apart. Good luck Roy