Kiwi_Roy

OK, I took your advice and ordered a 15M, Cliff said he can ship it Monday so I may get it the following week. You'll have to tell me more about running closed loop, I assume you need to buy an O2 sensor for that. One of these days my wife's going to figure out how much I'm spending on my Italian girlfriend, then I'm in trouble Roy

The trip on mine is shot and the numbers are almost faded away 70,000 kM. I don't know much about its history but there was also a few little gears that came with the bike, the way the speedo cable is arranged is less than stella. It would be nice to find an electronic replacement. Perhaps an electronic pair that drop in to replace both instruments. or a complete dash, I must say though I prefer to keep the original retro look. In the meantime you have put yours to good use.

Yes, that last point interests me for sure I really like all I have read about the unit and the fact he explains it well with diagrams etc so you get the feeling it;s not just a mysterious black box and it combines two items into one, ECU and Power Commander. The website seems to concentrate on the "16M" with only a passing reference to 15M, I think this has added to my confusion is it 1.6M or 16M i.e. 15M is a later version than 1.6M One little decimal makes a huge difference (not just to my bank account) So which unit did you buy My16M or My15M, the latter seems to come only pre-built

My bike came with a Power Commander III installed. After about an hour I suddenly loose one cylinder, just drops right out no warning Going back to standard the bike runs fine for 1/2 hour or so but then it starts to miss occasionally and spit back, not too bad just like it misses one beat in 1000. If at idle it will stall, Connecting the Power Commander back cures that. I traced the wires on the Power Commander and I find it uses a different pair of drivers for the injectors so I'm fairly sure one of them is cutting out on over temperature. For some reason I thought you were using MyECU Please see my response to Emry re tie 15m 16M confusion

I'm a bit confused over the different ECUs used My V11 has one with the square multipin plug, the 15M I think. Most of the pictures I see show one with the long plug 16M I think Which is the later version and is there any significant difference? How many of you are running an after market unit, which one and why did you select it? My ECU has an issue, also my power commander has a problem and I'm not sure what's the best path forward. Thanks Roy

Three more sketches ECU test points , this is for the ECU with the square multi-pin plug, if anyone wants I can do another for the long plug Troubleshooting tips, a few troubleshooting ideas I picked up over the years Charging Circuit, simple wiring. The current readings I got are probably different than yours but it should give you an idea. Cheap multimeters will have quite a bit of voltage drop which will also effect the readings, I suggest you make a shunt or use an automotive type meter. Having just rebuilt my regulator i can draw the schematic in my sleep. for those electronicly inclined i will forward a copy if you send me a PM Hope this is of interest Roy ECU Test Points May 12 2010.pdf Troubleshooting Tips.pdf Charging Circuit.pdf

I'm glad you got it sorted out. This is the part that had me puzzled "Now it gets weirder. If I turn the key to ON, pressing the horn button no longer causes the horn relay to click, instead the oil and alt idiot lights come on" These lights should come on when you turn the key or at least when the headlight relay powers up. Yes, Carls drawings do make it easy but I think the electrics are still quite a challenge for most. Try to standardize by using old relays out of the bike, that way you would have a spare and be more familiar. I use a couple of mine for headlight relays. The 5 pin Omrons are a direct replacement for 4 or 5 pin. Good Riding Roy

It's really tricky troubleshooting from here but thinking about it you say " If I turn the key to ON, pressing the horn button no longer causes the horn relay to click, instead the oil and alt idiot lights come on" I would try first to figure out why the oil and alternator lights don't come on until you press the horn button, perhaps once you have solved that the horn problem will become obvious. It seems to me the horn circuit is providing the 12V that should be provided from Fuse 5, the headlight circuit. Tell us a bit more about the horn relay you used, it wouldn't by any chance be a 3 wire type or you have a regular one wired with 3 wires would it? I'm thinking that with the key off you are powering up one end of the coil from your "Hot Wire", the other end is connected to the horn button (where the horns originally connected). When you push the button the power flows from your "Hot Wire" back through the relay coil to ground through some of the other loads on Fuse F5 for example the headlight filament. Actually I would be checking for a broken Red/Black wire between the large plugs at left and right just at the front of tank, perhaps where it flexes with steering, there are several spots where other wires are spliced into it. Check both Left & Right plug and sockets for corrosion also. From memory the R/Blk wire runs up the right hand side (throttle side) a wire splices into it and goes to the plug on left hand side another splices in and goes to the two pin going to regulator, (that's a good spot to check for 12V) then it goes to the right hand plug. I had my loom apart and found the splices were well done so I wouldn't expect any problem there. With the two large plugs apart and the two pin at regulator pulled check R/Blk wire for 12 V then we can take it from there. I prefer to use a test lamp, something that loads the circuit up otherwise a multimeter can fool you into thinking it's OK when you have a hight resistance joint. I have a headlamp bulb with a couple of wires soldered on but a taillight or flasher bulb would be good.

Just hold on a bit, I went over my scratchings last night and tidied them up a bit Will post them by the weekend Cheers Roy Docc, I sent you a PM regarding this.

That's good news, I think it's a common problem, not just Guzzi You should be able to locate another switch in Godzone, they are a common pattern. Cherry DCIC-A1AA, try D Smiths or a small appliance repair center, if you find one with a roller on you can take that off. For North America www.digikey.com part No CH290-ND $4.56 The one I have is an unsealed clone from Radio Shack, it seems to be holding up. It's the same switch for front brake on the V11 Cheers Roy p.s. I should mention, if your replacement switch has a third contact, just cut it off or cover to prevent an accidental short.

This doesn't seem to open on the FAQ forum so I will post it back here. If you are having trouble with your relays its possibly due to a faulty contact in the base. The attached shows how to remove the connectors from the base so they can be tightened by pinching with a pair of pliers. If the contact is beyond repair they are standard items that can be purchased at any good automotive supply store. If you are replacing the connectors I highly recommend dipping the wires in vaseline, this will prevent oxidation and corrosion. Vaseline on the relay pins also makes the relays easier to get in and out. I have also shown how you can add LEDs to the base as a troubleshooting aid. I did this with mine and find it most helpfull. The LEDs are wired to contact 87 so that they indicate when the relay contacts are closed, not just when the coil is energized. I strongly suggest you make a metal template for drilling the 1/8 hole so they all end up in the same place, not like mine. Hope this is of interest, Roy Here are the updated files. "Test Point Layout" showing where to test some of the wiring and what to expect "Relay Base Repair" showing how to remove the connectors for tightening. Also shows how you can add LEDs to brighten up your day. "Guzzi Wiring" a simplified schematic. Test Point Layout May 17 2010.pdf Relay Base Repair July 21 2010.pdf Guzzi_Wiring July 21 2010.pdf

Thanks, the 291 sounds ideal, I'll pick a tube up. I will try to stay out of salt water though, I get into enough trouble on the road. Update May 31, The regulator seems to be fine now, I will re-pot it this week. Before I fixed it I had ordered a bunch of heavy duty parts to build my own regulator so I will carry on with that project as time permits. I think the Ducati one is quite good but some of the parts seem a little weak. I tested the alternator and found it puts out over 25 Amps although I suspect it would soon burn out but I figure the regulator should at least be capable of handling whatever the alternator can throw at it. My regulator will use similar components (diodes & Silicon Controlled Rectifiers) only higher rated and arranged differently. Update June 16th After fixing the regulator I was still having battery problems. It turned out the battery I bought new last November was faulty and replaced under warranty. Now with the repaired regulator and replacement battery my problems hopefully are a thing of the past. As time permits I will carry on with my regulator design project using one of the old housings Slavomir so kindly sent and 50 Amp main components.

Well I finally got the regulator back together, hooked it up and it works great. The battery came straight up to 13.8 Volts from around 11 and it puts out over 10 Amps at 1000 RPM, no sign of any hot spots. I will test it for a few days then pot it with some sort of epoxy or silicone. It was a bit of an exercise but I learned a lot in the process, hopefully I will be able to pass on some of what I learned. Time to celebrate

Note: You are also jumpering the supply to coils and injectors, all fed from Relay 5 Guzzy_Wiring May 16 2010.pdf

No, it won't put out any power without ~12 V on the black wire, this powers up the transistors which turn on the SCRs. Just measure for 12V from the black regulator wire to chassis with the key ON. Slide the connector out just enough so you can connect the meter probe without disconnecting the reg. On my bike this 12V comes from the headlight fuse through relay 2. It's actually spliced into the same wire that picks up several of the panel warning lights so if they are working probably OK. Make sure your regulator case is well grounded, up to 30 Amp passes that way. A simple regulator test you can do if your multimeter has a diode test is measure from each of the yellow wires to the red wire, it should show about 0.5 - 0.6 in each case (red meter terminal to yellow, black meter terminal to red wire), this tests out the two diodes inside (one of mine was open) You can do the same test using a 1.5V cell and ammeter + to Y, - to red with the meter in series. Roy

Potting compound is everywhere Once I get mine working I will fill with silicone sealant

Check the socket, if the contacts loose will heat the relay Pump current x resistance = heat

Sounds like R1 not pulling in because of an interlock open Try putting the bike in NEUTRAL remove R1 and jumper the two large pins by poking a wire in the socket, that bypasses the interlocks and tries to pull the starter solenoid in. If that works look for a fault in R1 coil circuit. If it doesnt work it's on the contact side. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15718 One of the contacts in my relay base for R1 wasn't gripping the relay pin at all. Roy

Ah Yes, a dry solder joint, I found one on my board, either caused by vibration, not being hot enough or movement as it cooled. I'm glad you got it working again. Hopefully mine will work also, I'll keep you posted. Roy

Hi Raz, No the material in mine is semi hard, I just took it out in slices with a utility knife. Once I got some out I managed to work the rubber wire grommet out that allowed access to the under side (component side) You have to unsolder the 3 wires to diodes and the two SCRs as they stay with the case. I haven't quite finished the schematic, still have a couple of points to clear up. Roy

I have been having intermittent low battery voltage accompanied by other mysterious symptoms. All along I suspected the regulator and went as far as ordering parts to build my own (still a work in progress). In the weekend I pulled the Ducati reg off and thought I would remove the guts so I could build my new one into the shell, also try and find out what's gone on with it. I found one of the main diodes had come unsoldered from it's lead with obvious signs of arcing this would cut the output in half at least. Other than this obvious fault there seems to be little wrong so I soldered the diode back together and will give it another shot. While I was about it I reverse engineered the circuit to get a better understanding of it's workings, basicly a bridge rectifier made of 2 diodes and 2 SCRs. A regulator circuit turns the SCRs on as required If anyone has some old burnt out regulators around I would be interested in obtaining the case to build my prototype into. Please send me a PM Roy

Was it Relay 1 or 2 causing the fuse to pop? It would take a major melt down for a short between 30/87A to ground perhaps between the center and adjacent small pin. If you get a chance please run your multimeter over it and possibly remove the cover. Heres one source I use http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=Z2247-ND $4.82 They also have another part o Z2001-ND @ $7.60, don't know that it would last any longer though Roy p.s. I keep telling you guys to substitute a lamp for the fuse when locating a short, but I'm just as guilty one more fuse will fix it!

A 4 hour class, that makes you the expert then Seriously, that would be great. I have done some work with Oxygen sensors but that was for boiler control, same idea I suppose. The question is how do you apply one of these sensors, do you have to purchase a special meter or can you just jury up a circuit and measure mV out of it. For sure my ECU doesn't have an input for one. It sounds like something I can use to adjust the Power Commander map. Roy

I have to ask, just exactly what is a wide band O2 sensor and how do we apply it?

No, not sap, she is quite spoiled in below ground garage with a cover to boot. I think OldButNotDead hit the nail on the head.