Kiwi_Roy

Congratulations, you must have a nice wife Roy

Thinking about the symptoms wouldn't it have to be either the ignition or injectors cutting out intermittently, did you try monitoring voltage with a lamp to make sure it stays on at rthe ECU and injector relay output? Another point you could connect a lamp would be to the positive wire at a coil and ground just in case it's lost somewhere in the loom. I would also connect a multimeter up to the TPS input to the ECU and see if that flickers co-inciding with the pops. Strap the meter to the tank so you can keep an eye on it. I suppose it could also be a fuel delivery issue but I suspect it's got to be related to the ECU or something connected to it. BTW, when you disconnect the PCIII and run off stock ECU the injectors are driven by a different set of transistors, I think the coils are always from ECU

I never knew that, I always thought it was running rich, but it makes sense for sure, with the modified exhaust as Tom pointed out it will run lean with the standard ECU Thinking it too rich I leaned the PCIII map out "to use less gas" and it ran hotter I, I should have been going the other way which is counter intuitive. I will try it this week if I get a chance. Thanks Roy Update June 24th 2010 OK, I put the PCIII back on and richened up the mixture across the board After a run of about 6 km I quickly measured the cylinder temperature with one of those point and shoot thermometers pointing at fins just below the plug ~115°C for one cylinder ~120°C for the other, that seems reasonable to me. It wasn't a hot day.

Thanks for the response The TPS has been set up according to the experts, 150 mV at fully closed 450 at idle if I recall correctly. Intake has K&N filter but no top cover (elephant trunks). The exhaust is standard crossover but with Mistral carbon fiber mufflers, they look like MG07 used on Griso. I believe the PO had high compression pistons fitted. I do have PCIII but if anything when connected it seems to run hotter still. You gave me an idea, I will measure resistance of head temperature sensor so I can put an actual ° number, do you have a temperature or Ohms in mind? e.g. is 120°C hot? I have orderd a MyECU from Cliff Jefferies and I should have it in a few days, hopefully that will help.

My 2001 is using way too much fuel, with the regular ECU it's barely doing 20 miles to the USG on the highway and it runs very hot in city traffic. Is it possible to run hot from being too rich as well as too lean? BTW is there any standard spot for measuring the engine temperature e.g. a point where I could attach a thermocouple and compare to the normal reading.

It's amazing how oil travels around on the outside of the engine. I just put a new gasket on the sump and the bike started dripping from the back corner, at least thats what it looked like. Eventually I tracked the leak to the oil pressure gauge which is attached to the left side throttle body, I hadn't touched that

On further thought. If you suspect it's electrical get a small lamp and thread it through the hole in your brake lever. One wire goes to ground and the other to one of the points I indicate, just jamb it in the socket along with the relay or wrap around the pin. As you are riding this allows you to monitor the voltage at the test point, if the bike starts playing up and the light's flickering it tells you there's a problem before that point, if it's not flickering you can cross that off your list and try a different point. I like to use an LED for this because they are much more visual than an incandescent or a multimeter for that matter. I carry one on the bike as a simple troubleshooting tool. If you don't have a 12V LED just make one using any LED and a 1K resistor. Have you ruled out loose connection in the relay bases? Good Luck Roy

Sorry to hear it, sounds like my bike was a week or two back I was having battery problems, battery would drop to 10V, tacho would cut out. I think the voltage dropped so low the injectors would fail to open occasionaly or If you have a Power Commander try removing it, that gives a different set of injector drivers. (mine cuts out on one cylinder at times) or Try my intermittent fault detector to see if you are loosing power at some critical point, this will drop out if you loose power e.g. to the ECU for even a split second. Just use a spare relay. Connect it on to a point you suspect, next time it misses if the relay is still energised you can rule out that point and move to another. Hope this helps Roy Troubleshooting Tips.pdf

Another picture showing the diode removed alongside a good pair. It is possible to clean up and solder the others back together, I did that with the one on my bike, so far it's hanging together touch wood However this is my project - to replace the original components rated at about 20 Amps with 50 Amp units, a full bridge rectifier and single SCR

Mine was installed by PO it's kind of attached to the left hand throttle body, visible when you glance down

So far I have only pulled 3 apart so I can hardly point to anything but in 2 cases the diodes had come unsoldered and were arcing. This is easy to test for because the diodes are connected between each yellow wire and the red. In fact if you tested and found one open it would be possible to just dig out the corner, cut through the circuit board and repair/replace or simply hang another diode yellow to red on the outside. In the picture you will see what I mean (upper left side of case / right hand side of inverted circuit board) the leads have melted off and the diodes are black from arcing. What looks like a tack laying across the edge of the copper part is the lead that melted off the top diode. The lead from the bottom diode is still attached to the circuit board, RH side 1/2 way down. Actually this regulator is quite repairable, the leads can be soldered back and a couple of cheap components replaced (I destroyed a few getting it apart). The two black semiconductors screwed into the case are the SCRs which are ok. It also has a burnt resistor on the circuit indicating a short circuit in the charge light lampholder but that didn't stop it working

My oil light came on the other day, I have changed all the lamps to LEDs It turns out I had washed it a couple of days before and the leakage current was enough to turn the LED on, once the bike heated up and dried out the lamp went off. I have a pressure gauge so it didn't worry me too much. Just thought I would mention it in case others are using LEDs also.

Woa! there, what a cool site

Hi, I have pulled a couple of old regulators apart now, it's not that hard, you just need to be a bit carefull removing the circuit board so as not to damage some expensive parts. If anyones interested I gan do a blow by blow proceedure. Roy

Perhaps Ghezzi & Brian is just the name of the shop/dyno outfit that tuned the bike, I think the ECU is thye same as mine.

Then how about MyECU, I believe it fits into the original housing

I have a Power Commander that is faulty, came with the bike so I don't know how old it is but one of the serial interface variety, runs fine for about an hour then suddenly cuts out on one cylinder. My ECU also has some issues. it starts to run ragged after a while as well, so what am I to do? I could replace the ECU and be back to square 1, stuck with a black box and no way of self tuning. If I stick with the power commander I either have to repair or replace, then I'm stuck with this awkward object taking up valuable space under the seat. The Power Commander only takes over the Injectors, the ECU is still driving the spark etc. What if that gives out on me. or I can replace both faulty objects in one fell swoop for a less than the cost of a Power Commander. I know the idea of putting together a kit is a bit daunting for some but it doesn't frighten me, besides they are available made up. I will probably never dyno the bike, as long as I can get it to run half decent on a regular basis I will be more than happy. I think most of all what I like about the MyECU is Cliff's willingness to share the secrets of his little box of tricks. I should also add I like the idea of building something for the bike. Perhaps I am making a big mistake, only time will tell.

OK, I took your advice and ordered a 15M, Cliff said he can ship it Monday so I may get it the following week. You'll have to tell me more about running closed loop, I assume you need to buy an O2 sensor for that. One of these days my wife's going to figure out how much I'm spending on my Italian girlfriend, then I'm in trouble Roy

The trip on mine is shot and the numbers are almost faded away 70,000 kM. I don't know much about its history but there was also a few little gears that came with the bike, the way the speedo cable is arranged is less than stella. It would be nice to find an electronic replacement. Perhaps an electronic pair that drop in to replace both instruments. or a complete dash, I must say though I prefer to keep the original retro look. In the meantime you have put yours to good use.

Yes, that last point interests me for sure I really like all I have read about the unit and the fact he explains it well with diagrams etc so you get the feeling it;s not just a mysterious black box and it combines two items into one, ECU and Power Commander. The website seems to concentrate on the "16M" with only a passing reference to 15M, I think this has added to my confusion is it 1.6M or 16M i.e. 15M is a later version than 1.6M One little decimal makes a huge difference (not just to my bank account) So which unit did you buy My16M or My15M, the latter seems to come only pre-built

My bike came with a Power Commander III installed. After about an hour I suddenly loose one cylinder, just drops right out no warning Going back to standard the bike runs fine for 1/2 hour or so but then it starts to miss occasionally and spit back, not too bad just like it misses one beat in 1000. If at idle it will stall, Connecting the Power Commander back cures that. I traced the wires on the Power Commander and I find it uses a different pair of drivers for the injectors so I'm fairly sure one of them is cutting out on over temperature. For some reason I thought you were using MyECU Please see my response to Emry re tie 15m 16M confusion

I'm a bit confused over the different ECUs used My V11 has one with the square multipin plug, the 15M I think. Most of the pictures I see show one with the long plug 16M I think Which is the later version and is there any significant difference? How many of you are running an after market unit, which one and why did you select it? My ECU has an issue, also my power commander has a problem and I'm not sure what's the best path forward. Thanks Roy

Three more sketches ECU test points , this is for the ECU with the square multi-pin plug, if anyone wants I can do another for the long plug Troubleshooting tips, a few troubleshooting ideas I picked up over the years Charging Circuit, simple wiring. The current readings I got are probably different than yours but it should give you an idea. Cheap multimeters will have quite a bit of voltage drop which will also effect the readings, I suggest you make a shunt or use an automotive type meter. Having just rebuilt my regulator i can draw the schematic in my sleep. for those electronicly inclined i will forward a copy if you send me a PM Hope this is of interest Roy ECU Test Points May 12 2010.pdf Troubleshooting Tips.pdf Charging Circuit.pdf

I'm glad you got it sorted out. This is the part that had me puzzled "Now it gets weirder. If I turn the key to ON, pressing the horn button no longer causes the horn relay to click, instead the oil and alt idiot lights come on" These lights should come on when you turn the key or at least when the headlight relay powers up. Yes, Carls drawings do make it easy but I think the electrics are still quite a challenge for most. Try to standardize by using old relays out of the bike, that way you would have a spare and be more familiar. I use a couple of mine for headlight relays. The 5 pin Omrons are a direct replacement for 4 or 5 pin. Good Riding Roy

It's really tricky troubleshooting from here but thinking about it you say " If I turn the key to ON, pressing the horn button no longer causes the horn relay to click, instead the oil and alt idiot lights come on" I would try first to figure out why the oil and alternator lights don't come on until you press the horn button, perhaps once you have solved that the horn problem will become obvious. It seems to me the horn circuit is providing the 12V that should be provided from Fuse 5, the headlight circuit. Tell us a bit more about the horn relay you used, it wouldn't by any chance be a 3 wire type or you have a regular one wired with 3 wires would it? I'm thinking that with the key off you are powering up one end of the coil from your "Hot Wire", the other end is connected to the horn button (where the horns originally connected). When you push the button the power flows from your "Hot Wire" back through the relay coil to ground through some of the other loads on Fuse F5 for example the headlight filament. Actually I would be checking for a broken Red/Black wire between the large plugs at left and right just at the front of tank, perhaps where it flexes with steering, there are several spots where other wires are spliced into it. Check both Left & Right plug and sockets for corrosion also. From memory the R/Blk wire runs up the right hand side (throttle side) a wire splices into it and goes to the plug on left hand side another splices in and goes to the two pin going to regulator, (that's a good spot to check for 12V) then it goes to the right hand plug. I had my loom apart and found the splices were well done so I wouldn't expect any problem there. With the two large plugs apart and the two pin at regulator pulled check R/Blk wire for 12 V then we can take it from there. I prefer to use a test lamp, something that loads the circuit up otherwise a multimeter can fool you into thinking it's OK when you have a hight resistance joint. I have a headlamp bulb with a couple of wires soldered on but a taillight or flasher bulb would be good.