Lucky Phil
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Posts posted by Lucky Phil
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I'd just like to hear it ride by at full chat.
I suspect you'd be dissapointed docc.
Ciao
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Also an 1100 Sport, Foundry Motorcycle's "Pipeline" really shows off the layout of a proper SpineFrame!
Imagine the sound with you helmet right above that dual throat Weber!
Not only ugly but almost totally unrideable.
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I prefer the Cobra clips. Very nice and reuseable. They sell a "special" tool for them but its not necessary.
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For those interested a video. Its all quite interesting but take a look at the comparison that starts at 5min 30 second into the vid. I know its extreme temp wise and most of us would change our oil at a lot shorter intervals than the average car person but its a nice demonstration of one of the advantages of a full synth oil.
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I keep coming back to Richard Widman's work on motor lubricants as it appears very well referenced (33 page .pdf):
http://www.widman.biz/Corvair/English/Links/Oil.html
I didn't see anything in it specifically on this heat transfer business.
It makes me want to BlueTooth the guzziadiag "dashboard" where I could watch head temperature real time. Unfortunately, the V11 does not actually measure oil temperature. That is usually done with a sump stick (kinda hard to see on the fly!
)Penrite's .pdf (posted by MartyNZ) about the relationship of ZDDP and leaded fuels is also compelling.
I, too, would like it if Gene Berg's observations were better documented/ showed some data.
Yes docc I thought the Penrite info was interesting and backed up my research from a few years ago now that around 1000ppm of ZDDP was adequate for a flat tappet engine.
There are always folk that look suspiciously at new technology and search for reasons to stick with what they know to save them from reading, research and analysis and to stay in their comfort zone.
Sometimes you need to tweek the machinery to take advantage of the major benifits of the improved technology.
Measuring CHT insn't hard just a thermocouple under the spark plug and a CHT gauge. Chuck will know all about them from the bug smasher world:)
Ciao
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I would avoid full synthetics in any air cooled engine.
Why? They are *much* better when hot. No contest.
Ok not counting Air Craft lol.But for an Air Cooled Engine on the ground I would avoid full synthetics.
Everybody is intitled to be completely wrong I guess, and I respect your right to be so.
Ciao
http://www.geneberg.com/cat.php?cPath=26_575
This is the common issue with taking one small piece of scetchy info totally devoid of detail and making a blanket statement covering all groups ( IE "air cooled engines")
I think everybody with any real knowlege of full synthetic oils these days would agree that they are far superior in every aspect of performance, hot or cold.
So here we have some observations with no detail on how the testing was conducted and what types and weighs of oils were compaired and under what conditions. But lets assume that the only thing of real concern in this particular application was the cylinder head temps were higher. How much higher? enough to be an issue? And if indeed you did need them to be lower then the probably cause in this particular case would be that the superior flow rate of the full synthetic meant it stayed less time in the head to pick up the heat. Assuming all this info is correct FOR THIS PARTICULAR APPLICATION and bearing in mind that full synthetics are far superior to mineral oils at dealing with heat what would I do?
I would run drain restrictors in the heads to allow more dwell time for the synthetic oil to absorb the heat and make use of its superior ability to tollerate high oil temps.
What I wouldnt do is make a blanket assumption that flys in the face of all available evidence and ignor superior modern technology.
Ciao
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I would avoid full synthetics in any air cooled engine.
Why? They are *much* better when hot. No contest.
Ok not counting Air Craft lol.But for an Air Cooled Engine on the ground I would avoid full synthetics.
Everybody is intitled to be completely wrong I guess, and I respect your right to be so.
Ciao
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Fins look nice! Makes you want to to paint, then shine the edges?
Hey, but, what's up with those cam lobes? Looks like they were re-contoured and didn't hold up so well?
Yes docc its been built up and re profiled at some point. Not pretty now though.
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3D printing is amazing. We're at about the same stage as when the first Commodore 64 and Ataris came out. It'll be interesting to see where it leads.
It is Chuck. I believe it will revolutionise our whole economy eventually. They are 3D printing metals now and things like jet engine turbine nozzles. Currently when you machine something on the CNC there is over 70% of the raw material that ends up as swarf that needs to be transported back to be re made into new material and you need to stock and transport the raw material in the first place. 3D has virtually no wastage so stocking and transport costs are slashed, just for starters.
It will also change the way things look a lot. Currently even simple things like a machined bracket dont only look like they do because of the loads and forces they need to deal with but also because of the limitations of machining and even casting. 3D can produce exremely complex shapes easily so examples I have seen of structural components compaired to the machined piece they replace are much more organic looking because the manufacturing process is now unfettered. That really nicely machined 90 deg flanged bracket with its fillets and webs now looks more like a something that grew out of the ground because the item can now be designed purely to deal with the loads and forces without consideration to the limits of current machining. So machines will start to look more like they have grown than made in the future.
Think of this, in the near future you will put the thing you want to reproduce into your home 3D laser scanner email the file produced to your local 3D print shop which will have a metal laser 3D printer and it will produce the part on the spot. No part stocking no transport no wasteage.
Of course simple plastic and composite stuff you will do at home with your home 3D printer.
Its as much the secondary aspects that will alter our lives profoundly as much as what we will be able to produce with 3D. It will be big.
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So, if I'm reading this chart right, I should get-me some beryllium fasteners and the "world will be, once again, spinning on greased grooves."
Thanks to MartyNZ for this great link!
http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19689&p=215297One thing to mention about Berylium for those interested is that its highly carcinogenic in its powder form so dont go cutting it and breathing in the dust.Berylium copper valve seats require special precautions when cutting/ machining for example.
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The squish is 1,8mm, almost optimal value.
Ok thanks, good to know. I'd prefer if it was around 1.2mm but 1.8 is better than what it must have been with the std composite gasket at 2.6mm if the metal one is 0.8 thinner.
Really 2.6mm cant be considered a squish band at all, pretty much useless.
A thinner base gasket will get it to the 1.2mm mark I'm sure.
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I think valve to piston clearance with thinner gasket is okay providing stock cam. My measurement find about 6,2 mm intake, 6,6 mm exhaust side free play, valve lift on TDC is about 3,5 mm, it will run good.
Whats the squish clearance with the Breva gaskets?
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Yes, last night I took the valve springs off and checked guide wear. The valves stems have .5mm wear at the top and the guides, especially the exhaust, are very worn
Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk
Loose valve guide means the guide is loose in the head as opposed to the valve being loose in the guide. As i mentioned earlier I would K-line it. K-line guide sleeves are superior material and will last a lot longer, interupted spiral grooved for oil retention and lubrication and the best part is you can avoid using the seat cutter. When you replace guides they never go back in parrallel to the guide bore as the one that came out so there will be valve seat cutting to do with a cutter. With the K-lines you dont have this issue so you can just lap them in and save seat material.
I've seen them used in street and race engines.
Ciao
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When I pulled the barrels off I thoughts, mmm thats odd, the ring gapss werent in perfect alignment but they certainly were closer than 1/3 of the circumference around from each other, maybe 20-30 deg.
But then the bore and pistons werent showing any signs aparts from the tiny bit you see inside the piston. No wear at all, bores, bearings - all good.
As a matter of course, i'll reseat the valves and check guides and replace seals.
The head discoloration is pretty typical from what I've seen, as for the ring gaps well the rings rotate in operation so they may end up anywhere. Aligning the ring gaps at 30deg intervals is all well and good when fitting but in practice they dont stay that way.
In some race engines the rings rotate so dramatically they wear the piston lands significantly.
Best idea is to K-line the guides. Of course if you have a loose guide then that needs repalcement. Have you physically checked its loose?
Ciao
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BREMBO 320MM BRAKE DISK, 1998-2015
[PART NUMBER: 01613330] $222.02
MG cycle.
My local independent Duc/BMW/Guzzi guy warned me against using off-brand rotors with Brembo's. I had to replace my Griso's rotors at 45,000 miles because they were so "rattle-y" which I attributed to aggressive canyon braking. By others, I ride like an old man who doesn't like using brakes.
I've been using off brand rotors with Brembo calipers and pads for years on the road and track without issues. 45,000 miles out of a set of rotors is way beyond expectations for mine. My ST2 rotors are just on minimum thickness now at 57,000 klms and need to be replaced and its been use for mainly commuting and touring.
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Brakes are a funny thing. I can't imagine they are a good place to skimp or cut corners. Buying used brake parts seems silly to me. I put that in the same bucket as buying used tires for my motorcycle. I know people do it, but I don't.Oh, I don't know. Ducati posers are always putting the "latest bling" on their ducks, and many times very low mileage rotors, calipers, etc show up on the bay. I upgraded my Jack All tractor when I put a hack on it to a dual rotor front end with duck Brembo stuff for a little less than 150 bux.
That is fine. It's a free country. But for me, it is not a place I scrimp to save a few bucks. I am sure some of those parts on ebay are in good shape, but I know some of them aren't. People seem to think their worn out / broken cr@p is worth pretty serious money all to often. And if I am upgrading my brakes I would rather upgrade to higher quality parts. While the OEM Brembo's on Ducati's (and Guzzi's) aren't bad their bespoke stuff is of a higher quality and performance.
But to each their own. You pays your money, you takes your chances.
I wouldn't use Chinese rotors for example as my experience with some of their machined stuff is really good and some is quite poor and I'm not convinced on their control of material specs.
As you point out and I agree brakes are a critical component and not worth skimping on. However I agree with Chuck in that there is a lot of very good low mileage Brembo stuff out there for cheap money.
Us Ducati ownwers are quite a generous lot, I sold a set of brand new Ohlins forks with tripple clamps and rear shock off my 1198s for a killer price to one happy 748 owner when I upgraded the bike to FGRT road and track forks and TTX rear shock.
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Galfers on mine, no complaints.
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Bringing this one back, because I'm finally finding some time to get around to working on this thing.
As was suggested, the receiver for the clutch push rod is smaller on the 5 speed RAM than the original version, but it is a pressed in steel bit. The receiver from the original clutch isn't interchangeable. So I have two options:
1. drill out the receiver to the larger diameter
2. take the push rod into a machine shop and have the end of it turned down to the right size
Thoughts?
RAM 5 speed with pressed in metal insert:
OEM, different and not interchangeable:Whats the dia difference?
Ciao
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So why were these old dustbin faired bikes covered in (theoretically) zinc chromate?
It's what they had on hand?
Or, are these old dustbin fairings steel? Which raises other questions like, why? That stufffs heavy?
To save weight. Carcano was anal about weight so he didnt allow the top coat just the primer to stop corrosion. This was in the days of skin tight paper mache leathers and bikes with 50 HP. This type of weight saving has always seemed mad to me along with drilling holes in aluminium exhaust brackets etc. When you can loose 1/2 a kilo with a decent Sh*t is it really worth the effort?
Always makes me laugh when I see the bike weight reduction Nazzi that is 20kg overweight.
Ciao
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So, these B-25 Mitchells in zinc chromate primer look yellow because yellow pigment was added to the paint?
And, hey, Chuck, if you have a photo of that solo seat on the Centauro, I'd like to add it to the "Custom Seat" thread . . .
I dont believe this finish is Zink Chromate docc, it looks more like the Alodine and 814 treatment to me. I used to carry out this process on Skyhawk drop tanks and other stuff. Rub the part down with acidic 814 and apply the Alodine and rinse off with water. Gives alclad that translucent green hue.
The Zink Chromate primer I have experience with in the Aviation industry and on Ducati Magnesium parts from the 80's etc is a flat olive green colour. We had to stop using it at work years ago as its a carcinogenic.
Ciao
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Thanks Phil, arrived in Australia yesterday.
Hope you like it. It's really all Chucks good work
Ciao.
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Here in Australia we still have a wide choice of Ethanol and non Ethanol fuels in the major populated areas. So std unleaded 91 octane RON (US 87 Octane AKI) is now generally a 10-15% Ethanol mix but we also have 95 and 98 RON ( US 91-93/94) which is Ethanol free. I run all the bikes and the Ford Kuga we have which is a 2 liter turbo on the 98 and the old Mazda Astina I have on 95 in the summer because it detonates in the hot weather and 91 in the winter.
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I'm sure that Nigel was following all the procedures for "Hot Refueling" after completing a hazard reduction risk assessment, and was wearing OSH approved PPE.
Fueling with the engine running!!!! not only a risk to yourself but everybody else using the petrol station. Lucky the station attendant didn't catch you, he would have had kittens.Luckly I had a spare key on me so could fuel up without turning bike off.
Ha, PPE like the suit those bomb disposal guys wear
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Luckly I had a spare key on me so could fuel up without turning bike off.
Fueling with the engine running!!!! not only a risk to yourself but everybody else using the petrol station. Lucky the station attendant didn't catch you, he would have had kittens.
Ciao
Knights design footpeg and Shift linkage
in Technical Topics
Posted
This is true but only because a drum brake system has lost motion due to the shoe clearance to the drum and some mechanical play they needs to be addressed before the fiction surface actually applies force to the drum. The shift mechanism doesn't really have this issue to any extent.
90 deg is ideal for the shifter input arm but it's not critical within reasonable limits.
Ciao