Lucky Phil
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Posts posted by Lucky Phil
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You need the split rings. Item 4 in the parts manual.
Ciao
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That's interesting...only about a 10% weight savings going from aluminum to steel...will be interesting to hear your feedback after the install if you notice it being more sluggish than before on pickup.
By the way, one question for other Scura owners...do you notice when the bike is idling in neutral, is it more rattley than when you pull in the clutch, also in neutral?
Thanks...waiting anxiously for the farkles to arrive!
Overall weight of the flywheel is only one factor in its effect. More importantly is where on the assembly is the weight distributed. Its possible to have a heavier flywheel assembly that has less effect than a lighter one depending on how far from the center the weight is concentrated.
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Here is a photo of a Daytona phonic wheel and the retaining ring. The retaining ring is identical to the 2 valve engines but it obviously retains the jack shaft where the 2 valve retains the Cam shaft. Note the retaining ring has a large lip around the thrust face where the phonic wheel bears against it to control end foat. Well that face should be flat, hence the wear produces end float and in this case it looks like it was about .5mm or so. I didn't measure it because it was up for replacement anyway.
During your tensioner replacement you wouldnt have noticed it unless you went looking for it but at you mileage I'd imagine it will be worn and generating end float.
Maybe the source of your noise.
Here is the later updated version with the oiling slots
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Another thought, these things wear the camshaft retaining ring quite badly. They came out with a revised item with oiling slots milled in them. I was wondering whether yours is badly worn and causing the noise. The early 4 valve engines made a lot of noise from camshaft end float and there was a service mod to shim the cams to quieten them down.
If the cam retaining ring is worn í'm sermising it may create excess cam end float on the 2 valve engine as well. May also explain how it seems to change depending on load and temperature of the engine.
It easy to replace, just the front has to come off the engine again and the cam sprocket and then 3 bolts. MG cycle sells the replacements for about $40 or so I think.
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When you had the push rods out to check the ends did you also check that they were straight and the rods had no rub marks on them from the push rod tunnels?
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Sorry for not replying, I moved house and was busy otherwise (unpacking boxes etc), did not have a chance to look at the bike
.(....)
To relieve your concern about whether you should run the engine any more, you could remove the sump oil drain plug and look for metal on the magnet. Lots of fur on the magnet could tell you that something is breaking up inside.
By the way, that's a nice looking bike.
Thanks! I looked around for anything on the outside, but the sound really sounds like coming from inside the engine. Yesterday evening I dropped the sump, as any metal fur doesn't have to be magnetic. I checked the magnet and the sump oil filter, but did not find any metal. I did find a lot of sludge and some water, but the bike is parked in a cold shed and hasn't run in a month, so that doesn't surprise me. I did find GREY sludge (I'm used to it being white/yellow-ish, like mayonnaise), is that normal? Here's a picture:
Anyone seen something like that?
My plan is to install an oil pressure gauge (it could start to rattle due to low oil pressure). If that's OK, I'll just ignore the rattle and drive it until something breaks
Looks like aluminium paste based sludge.
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Well done, guys! Just to restate and share what I learned here about tuning with fork oils, not all "5 wt" or "10 wt" fork oil is the same. Thinner oils do seem to flow better through the Marzocchi's tight damping.
See Peter Verdone's great work on listing many common oils using centiStokes@100ºC (a much more accurate unit than "# weight" ):
http://www.peterverdone.com/archive/lowspeed.htm
(I have had good results with BelRay HV1 5W that I understand comes in at 19.50 cST)
Because not all brands of fork oil weights are the same viscosity for their advertised weight what I do when I pull down a set of forks is measure the viscosity of what comes out so I have a baseline for what goes in irrespective of brand. So I use a very rudimentary method of a syringe cylinder with the plunger removed and a stop watch. Fill the syringe with your finger over the outlet and then remove and time the emptying or a set volume and compare it to the new oil you are putting in.
Then mix and match weights to get what you want. If you need a different weight to whats in there at least you have a baseline and can estimate the change based on how it compares to the new oil.
Its annoying when you're happy with the damping the way it was and refill with the same weight only to find the damping has changed.
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Norris motorcycle cams are now Megacycle cams and have been for some time.
Some info for you.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/norris-cam-history.296994/
Ciao
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On bikes with angled bars you also get air trapped at the master cylinder connection. Loosen off the master and remove from the bar with the line still connected obviously and carefully raise the lever end until its slightly higher than the connection ( you need the reservior level under half usually) and then very carefully work the lever slightly, repeatedly,just taking the freeplay out of it and you will notice air bubbles coming into the reservior. Bolt it back on the bar and check.
Juggling the lever with it in the position mentioned breaks free the bubbles in the connector point and they then float into the reservior through the return port.
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Captain obvious here. Be sure to NOT replace the alm flywheel with another oem alm flywheel. There is forum evidence that some have done this. Replace it with an oem dual plate clutch ( probly best bet) or Ram low inertia single plater(very hard to find). Or something else with a steel flywheel.
The guys at MG Cycle have assured me this kit will seamlessly replace the clutch assembly in my 2001 Rosso and is in stock. And they suggested it's about half the price of replacing the existing single plate clutch with an OEM dual plate clutch.
It will apart from the gearbox drive spline piece (leave the original one in place) and MAYBE the clutch push rod. The main clutch and flywheel unit is the same as the 5 speeders with the possible exception of the push rod receptacle. There is a thread on the push rod issue here somewhere and whether or not you need a 5 speed one.
The most economical way for you I believe.
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Check Huite's bike bike on Paul Minnaerts site, its fitted with PVM wheels.
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All,
Thanks for the responses! I indeed replaced the tensioner AND the chain. To me, it does not sound like the sound is created outside the engine. My oil cooler mounts are steel and good. The exhaust flanges are tight, as I took them off to replace the cam chain and tensioner.
Also, the sound frequency rises with the trottle/revs, which for me links it to the engine internals...
Any other thoughts?
Apologies seems I'm missing a lot of details these days.
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It wont be detonation at idle, sounds a bit like the cam chain. Might be time to check the tensioner
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- Replaced cam chain and tensioner for the Stucci type with spring. Cold idle improved again, no change. Rattle remained.
He did that..
hard for me to hear anything not normal in the video accept what sounds like you dropped a tool off camera..
better than a hose put the butt of a big screw driver to your ear and place the tip around the block, heads, timing cover etc to try isolating the noise.
Ok, missed that although if the chain is shagged ( which it shouldnt be at those miles) it still might rattle anyway. Just a thought.
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It wont be detonation at idle, sounds a bit like the cam chain. Might be time to check the tensioner
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Is anyone taking part in the ride to raise money for Prostrate Cancer Research riding my 72 Eldorado
I'll be taking part in the Langley BC ride if you feel like making a donation it goes to the foundation in your home country
http://www.gentlemansride.com/sponsor/?kw=roy%20matson
I'll be looking something like this LOL
Prostrate cancer Roy? Is that the lying face down stretched out cancer?
Ciao
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My extender arrived today Chuck, really nice piece. Thanks very much to you and docc.
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That's a bit scary.My RM has just clocked over 40,000 km's. I've had it since 3,000 km's with no clutch or gearbox work. Clutch fluid is due for a change but doesn't look dark.
It occasionally gets a vague feel to gear box like its lost between gears when you change down while rolling to a stop. It also squeals a little bit when taking off quickly.
Will I get any warning that clutch plate is about to go?
Warning? not really its not the plate its the flywheel that fails and can take out the crankcases with it. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16675
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Like Chuck said if its done that kind of mileage on the originl single plate clutch then its about time to pull it down and replace the flywheel and clutch assy. The outcome for a failed unit is too severe and dangerous and its a matter of when not if.
Your shifting issue sound like clutch not gearbox to me.
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I have mine mounted. Seems like it unearthed a few issues I was having with my transmission and have been fettling with it since. But up shifts are much smoother and more positive. Thanks again to Chuck and Phil.
By unearthed issues - do you mean that adding the part has caused or amplified an existing problem? Since upshifts are better, does this mean you are having trouble with downshifts? If so that sounds about like the current state of my LeMans. Now awaiting some parts and will get into the shifter once more. I think I'll install the extender first, just in the name of scientific experimentation and isolating variables.
This gearbox has a certain technique to it that is slightly different to say a Ducati or Japanese box. I always preload the shifter when shifting in both direction. Also due to the design of the detenting mechanism it requires you "follow through" with shifts especially in the upper gears. The detent cylinder on a ducati for example looks like a pointed star from the end so the detent roller is either either going to slot into the next gear or spring back into the previous on a sloppy or lazy/relaxed shift. The V11 detent wheel has slots with flat sections between the gears, most notably on the upper gears so the detent mechanism isnt necessarily going to "help you out" with a lazy shift.
The other thing is due to the Guzzi's heavy flywheel you cant just flick the throttle for downshifts like you can with a Ducati, you have to lean more to the roll it on for it to catch revs, this also makes down shifts less fluid. I suspect the Guzzi will shift better still when I fit the RAM clutch unit.
Forgive me if I'm telling you things you already know, and if you dont already do it try downshift preload. I've just always done it on the guzzi, not necessary on other bikes I've ridden.
Ciao
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But has anyone considered a carbon fiber tank? That could be easier to fabricate, especially by the DIY types out there.
I have a couple carbon fiber Ducati tanks for my old racebikes, and one nice aluminum tank. I prefer the look/feel of the aluminum tank but the carbon fiber tanks are really light and look cool.
I wish I had not read that... Now I want a CF tank for my Scura.
I'm sure it's cost prohibitive but there are folks out there making tanks out of Carbon Fiber. They have never setup the shop section of their website as they probably figured out that only Ducati folk are willing to spend this kind of money. They usually show up at Barber's every year so you might get them to ballpark a price.
They do some lovely things to a v11 sport.
You know I've had some experience making fibreglass tanks for bikes from scratch, which means using a pre existing tank and making a mold of the top and base then joining them and sealing. Its not something I have time for at the moment but its not an outrageously hard thing to do for those that do it professionally. Whether its wet laid carbon or glass wouldnt make a huge difference to the ultimate price and the V11 tank underside and mounts are very simple and easy to mold. May be worth investigating a group buy and approach people that do this stuff as I believe you should be able to keep the cost to under a grand US with a reasonable amount of orders.
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Phil, I have tracking numbers for US shipments, but not for overseas. What I do have is is a Customs # LJ026837595US if that helps. ?
Edit: Pasting that number in the usps website gets a message that it's arrived in Oz and is currently in transit to the destination.
Thanks Chuck, I'm not stressed about it although I did note the one to NZ was a fast post. Those Kiwis always seem to have it over us Aussies:)
Zink Chromate green is fine Chuck, reminds me of the old days when we were allowed to use such stuff on aeroplanes, along with Mastinox.
Thanks to docc as well for covering the postage. Hope everyone is happy with the performance.
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Havent received mine yet Chuck
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Stop Press.... Guzzi consider moon landing.
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Electrosport 515 Regulator
in Technical Topics
Posted
I have an Electrosport one as well and have not fitted it due to the std one now charging fine after I sorted the voltage drop issue. Cant see any advantage in it so its a spare for when the inevitable occurs.
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