Lucky Phil
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Posts posted by Lucky Phil
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It's only a "black art" if you don't make the effort to understand it.Docc its a black art to me , I asked for a 25mm drop- the shock looks like a quality piece of kit, it comes set for your weight and riding(street , track) it also has all the settings recorded sag, preload rebound settings etc-it does say' lowered 20mm on shock and 5mm extra sag ' I haven't had time to check to sag I just bolted it on and am just loving it! I may play about with it at some point but to say its transformed the bike would be spot on!!
Can't think of to many sports/ sports tourers that benefit from a reduction in rear ride height. Quite the opposite in fact.
I would be dropping the forks through at least 10mm maybe more depending on how you go for ground clearance and side stand length.
It will regain some of the steering precision and front/rear balance.
Lowering bikes for short inseams is never a good thing really. Better to adapt your riding style or buy a bike that fits you in the first place.
Ciao
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Looks that way. Ducati 1098 regs in the early days were rubbish and cooking batteries everywhere.
Something about them changing the supplier of regs. Effected other models as well from memory.
Ciao
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Ignition sensor?
Ciao
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Penske are a very nice shock, Had experience with one on a Ducati 996 Corse once.
Trouble is when I went looking for a shock for the V11 I wanted a remote or at least convienient pre load adjuster and at that time Penske didnt have one.
Ciao
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Very good chamberlin, good reference material for anyone else that wants to do the swap.
Ciao
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Phil, take a look at the lower left corner of the shop manual drawing, this inset is the Rosso Corsa/Ohlins setup that I am now dealing with.
Yep I see now. Dont remember this arrangement on any of the Ohlins forks I have previously had, and there's been a few.
Ciao
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That picture is for the marzocchi forks I think you will find. Your photo seems to be the spacer setup for the Ohlins ( I went and checked the shop manual) I now see the Ohlins appear to have the axle spacer slide into the inner race on one side and abut the inner race on the other.
Normal config is for the inner spacer to abut the inner race on both sides as per the std Marzocchi forks.
Ciao.
Ammend, oh I see the inset with the Ohlins spacer and bearing config.
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Went over to the uk for 4 days, meet some Guzzi people and go to an airshow.
The tenni had other plans. In 1500 miles the aa were called 4 times, I missed most of the airshow, and am feeling not very benevolent towards my Guzzi.
One call out was for a flat tire, not the bikes fault, but the other three were electrical, which has never been an issue before.
Firstly, out of the blue, she wouldn't start. Battery ok, all indications good, all the correct noises etc, but press the starter and the indicator lights dim slightly, but bot a dicky bird from the starter itself.
Ahh, I think, I've read about this.
Wrestle off the tank, find those bullet connectors. But they looked healthy, so I turned the steering while pushing the starter, and a 15amp fuse blows.
So the aa guy turns up, we replace the fuse(idiot me for not having spares), and up she starts after fiddling with some wires under the tank. Off I go, but I am worried about what caused the fuse to blow in the first place.
2 days later same thing happens. This time I replace the fuse, but no change.
Aa man turns up, very sharp guy, he reckons a wire is damaged between the relay and the starter, so he rigs a short circuit direct from the starter to a wire, and when I touch the battery, it starts up. Excellent! It's messy and awkward but will get me home.
I ride off, and the bike conks out a mile later. The battery's dead!
Aa man comes again, same dude,(after a 3 hour wait), and he has a good look.
This is where I get a bit out of my depth. Obviously the battery has not been charged, and it's too much of a coincidence to be unrelated to the starter issue. He reckons the charging circuit is compromised probably in the same wiring loom as the starter wire, so he does some clever wiring where one of the relays should be(he removed it), and now it charges. Very clever. It's a messy operation to start and shutdown, I have to remove the seat and fiddle with wires, but it gets me home.
Now I only got home last night, and haven't taken the bike apart(nor will I , as my buddy's an auto electrician so I'll leave it to him), but has anyone else had issues with the wiring from the relays getting damaged? The aa guy reckon the relays themselves were working correctly.
I get the impression there's a loom somewhere under the relay box that's maybe shorting, but won't know until my mate has a good look.
Thoughts?
Maybe its just objecting to being taken to England. can be a bit depressing there some times.
Try a trip to sunny Italy, or even Australia.
Ciao
Just enjoying a real ale in the English sunshine. How's your pissy lager in the rain Phil ??
Ha, Warm Ale no doubt. Me I'm more of a Merlot/Cab Sav man myself.
Then again I suppose you need something akin to Warm mud to kill the taste of the typical English cuisine.
Ciao
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Went over to the uk for 4 days, meet some Guzzi people and go to an airshow.
The tenni had other plans. In 1500 miles the aa were called 4 times, I missed most of the airshow, and am feeling not very benevolent towards my Guzzi.
One call out was for a flat tire, not the bikes fault, but the other three were electrical, which has never been an issue before.
Firstly, out of the blue, she wouldn't start. Battery ok, all indications good, all the correct noises etc, but press the starter and the indicator lights dim slightly, but bot a dicky bird from the starter itself.
Ahh, I think, I've read about this.
Wrestle off the tank, find those bullet connectors. But they looked healthy, so I turned the steering while pushing the starter, and a 15amp fuse blows.
So the aa guy turns up, we replace the fuse(idiot me for not having spares), and up she starts after fiddling with some wires under the tank. Off I go, but I am worried about what caused the fuse to blow in the first place.
2 days later same thing happens. This time I replace the fuse, but no change.
Aa man turns up, very sharp guy, he reckons a wire is damaged between the relay and the starter, so he rigs a short circuit direct from the starter to a wire, and when I touch the battery, it starts up. Excellent! It's messy and awkward but will get me home.
I ride off, and the bike conks out a mile later. The battery's dead!
Aa man comes again, same dude,(after a 3 hour wait), and he has a good look.
This is where I get a bit out of my depth. Obviously the battery has not been charged, and it's too much of a coincidence to be unrelated to the starter issue. He reckons the charging circuit is compromised probably in the same wiring loom as the starter wire, so he does some clever wiring where one of the relays should be(he removed it), and now it charges. Very clever. It's a messy operation to start and shutdown, I have to remove the seat and fiddle with wires, but it gets me home.
Now I only got home last night, and haven't taken the bike apart(nor will I , as my buddy's an auto electrician so I'll leave it to him), but has anyone else had issues with the wiring from the relays getting damaged? The aa guy reckon the relays themselves were working correctly.
I get the impression there's a loom somewhere under the relay box that's maybe shorting, but won't know until my mate has a good look.
Thoughts?
Maybe its just objecting to being taken to England. can be a bit depressing there some times.
Try a trip to sunny Italy, or even Australia.
Ciao
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I'll cast another vote for the Wilbers. I have an Ohlins on my GSPD and a Wilbers on my LeMans. Both are fully adjustable with remote preload, and at least 8 years old. The Wilbers hasn't had as much wear & tear as the Ohlins on the Beemer, but it's equal in quality and performance. No matter what you end up going with, the key is having the right build and set-up for the intended mission.
Yes the Wilbers are bespoke also. You tell them your weight, whether or not you intend to carry a pillion, the type of riding you do and of course the model of bike and they build you a shock sprung and valved to suit. A remote spring pre load adjuster is optional but the shock length is set as you can only go about 10mm longer on the V11 shock or you will run into front uni joint clearance issues with the swingarm tunnel.
The Wilbers also have high and low speed compression adjustability where the std Ohlins are low speed only.
Some are fixated with the shiny gold shocks though. In my opinion the std Ohlins is not much better in quality or performance thatn you average Japanese bike shock. Thats why I upgraded my 1198s std Ohlins with the FGRT 803 forks and TTX rear shock.The std Ohlins are fairly average.
Ciao
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Still learning something here every day.
It won't be cable operated remote preload adjustment it will be hydraulic.I am not sure what the differences are between the Öhlins MG(t)127 and the Öhlins shock fitted to the later V11 Guzzis except that the 127 has cable remote preload adjustment.
Ciao
I suppose I must have known that at one time and it slipped with the rest of my mind. 
Plus, I removed the pannier to have a look and found the adjuster had completely backed off. Turned it back in and time to go for a ride!
Thanks, Phil! (Corrected my post).
It's just about having the right info out there docc
Ciao
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The cam and lifter have failed and the greatly increased valve clearance thus created has hammered the pushrods into what you now have.
Ciao
The cam and lifter have failed and the greatly increased valve clearance thus created has hammered the pushrod into what you now have.
Ciao
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It won't be cable operated remote preload adjustment it will be hydraulic.I am not sure what the differences are between the Öhlins MG(t)127 and the Öhlins shock fitted to the later V11 Guzzis except that the 127 has cable remote preload adjustment.
Ciao
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Not that unusual really, its just porosity. I have seen it many times over the years mainly on Ducati crankcases but a friend also had porosity on the crankcase around the r/h cylinder base gasket area on his Mk4 lemans.
My V11 also had a porous r/h cylinder head from the drain galleries which the previous owner had repaired with sleeves.
Every pair of Ducati Corse crankcases I purchased new I would inspect for porosity before i acceped as probably 40% had issues of one form or another.
BTW Locktite "wick in" would be the way to go in my opinion or if its a cleanish defined hole then what you have mentioned of Araldite works well.
Ciao
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I was going to wait it out until the winter, and do a major rear end overhaul (brace the swing arm and replace bearings, add some drillium to the pork chops, aluminum subframe, etc.) but it's now clear that my new front end is out riding the rear. Probably would be fine for easy riding on the street and highway but when pushing it hard on the track this last weekend, the rear was definitely acting squirrely. With over 45k miles on the original WP shock, I think it's not too soon to start thinking about getting a new one.
So, taking a poll as to what shock I should go with. Öhlins would be the no-brainer choice, but wondering if it would be worth it to spend a little more on a Penske. Then there are some lesser known brands out there making high quality products without all the name recognition, and the pricetag can be a little more gentle. I'd love to hear your thoughts.
What aftermarket shocks are you running?
Thanks!
I run a full spec Wilbers, preload adjustable, rebound, high and low speed compression. slightly longer than stock and raises the rear about 10mm.
I have experience with Ohlins and Penske, primarily on Ducatis but also Triumph inc their road and track forks and TTx rear shocks and the Wilbers quality seems to be on par with them and the unit works very well.
Ciao
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Gheezh, how did I miss that - bad assumptions on my part! I throught all Öhlins bikes would also have radial mounted brakes too... So I suppose I have two options:
1) find the appropriate radially mountable Brembos calipers (anything else to worry about other than the caliper mounting)
2) find the standard non-radial mount lower ends for the Öhlins forks (is it even possible to change the bottom ends?)
Both options probably won't be cheap. Option 1 at least gets me the 'cooler' radial mounted brakes. Option 2 makes the install of the Öhlins *much* easier once they'rerebuilt.
The Ohlins forks you have bought AREN'T Radial caliper forks so your original calipers will be ok.
As an aside, I dont like to reserviors you have fitted for 2 reasons, the mounting system looks so complicated it will probably give you issues eventually, and it just lacks elegance. Secondly powder coating will eventually start to blister and peel off due to sweating from the reservior cap seal. Even the stock ones do this eventually. Anodised units are the only way to go IMHO.
Good thread though, lots of useful info:)
Ciao
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Kyle Racing in Sand City, CA has a good reputation with Öhlins.
Yes Dan Kyle is the man when it comes to Ohlins, supply and maintenance. Dont even think about going anywhere else.
Ciao
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I guess you're horrified then by an electric fuel pump mounted inside the tank submerged in fuel
Personally, wouldn't fancy battery in amongst all the fuel plumbing.
Ciao
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Well , you could use Scotchbrite to hone the cylinder(s) moving up and down the cylinder bore quickly to get a cross hatch pattern and use brake cleaner to remove any foreign matter then lubricate the cylinder and pistons when reassembling .
Scotchbright wont touch a Nikasil cylinder. Take them to your nearest engine reco place and get them to run a "flexhone" through them. Its like a bottle brush with stones on the ends and is commonly used after the final hone to finish cylinders.
Wont remove any material to speak of and will give a nice finish for new rings. Will do that while you wait, takes all of 5 min.
Make sure you clean the bores with warm soapy water and a brush after they are done then let them dry and wipe some engine oil into the cylinders with your hand then wipe it all out with a paper towel. Lube the gudgeon pin and rod fit the pistons and start it up.
Rods straightness? why would they be bent? Cant see the reason for that.
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How much oil was in the airbox sp? how many CC's
ciao
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The Galfer one is the one that weighs 2.15 lbs. I should be getting it by early next week. I'd be happy to investigate doing a group purchase. The EBC one is very affordable, cheaper than the stock one. So if you're in the market to replace your rear rotor anyway, that would be the way to go. I got the Galfer rotor off Ebay for $165, which is $20 less than the direct quote I got from them. If enough people are interested, like I said above, I'd be happy to try to put together a deal. I have now made contacts with both companies.
Well sp838, I would be interested in a Galfer rear rotor if you can get me one. I cant find anyone selling them and they dont appear in their latest catalog.
I just want one because they look a lot cooler than the dinner plate currently fitted.
Ciao
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I fitted an adjustable aftermarket one whos brand escapes me at the moment but it doesnt have the rubber isolators just rose joints on each end.
It transmits noticeable but not really annoying level of bevel box gear rattle and driveshaft slop vibration through the footpeg on a neutral throttle. The l/h footpeg suprisingly.
Ciao
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So, here is what I've found so far.
EBC makes a direct bolt on rear rotor, model number is MD692C. I just spoke with the their sales rep, he laughed when he looked it up. Said they have never sold a single one of these in the US.
Galfer makes a rotor that would work: the DF005W, although it has a 6mm smaller diameter. Haven't examined the contact between the pad and disc yet to see if losing 3mm of contact would be a very big deal, I'm guessing that it really wouldn't be that bad.
Both would offer significant weight reduction compared to the stock Brembo disc, which translates into a huge rotational mass savings, as well as less unsprung weight. I'm definitely going to be doing this. Not sure yet which one, leaning towards the EBC one because it has the correct outside diameter.
Your kidding me right? have you ever lifted the rear wheel of a V11? I was in shock at the massive weight of the rear wheel of a std V11 the first time I removed one as i'm used to dealing with real sports bike wheels such as those on my 1198 Ducati and GSXR1000 Suzuki track bike. It was there and then that I decide that excellent handling was never going to be achievable with the V11 as on top off all that wheel lard there was still the weight of a bevel box and 1/2 of a reaction rod and drive shaft to consider.
So a 3mmx 6mmx 230 mm ring of disk rotor material missing is but a drop in the bucket of lard that is the std rear end and it wont make a scap of difference in the real world.
BTW the first thing I did when I felt how ridiculous the weight of the rear wheel/drive assy was on a Guzzi was to go and buy a decent high quality rear shock purly out of sympathy for the poor old std Sachs unit. The rear shock on a V11 has a man sized job to do thats for sure.
Ciao
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I am thinking of making a digital tacho that I can clip onto the bike when doing engine tuning, the stock item does not seem too accurate.
I intend to use an Atmega328 Microcontroller 'Arduino' based project. I will use a 14mm high 4 digit LED display that I can attach to the top of the instrument panel with Velcro. I have already made a display that shows the throttle position.
As the bike has a test lead (wiring diagram item 58) built into the loom connected to the timing sensor I was hoping to use this as my signal.
I understand the timing sensor has a 48 tooth wheel with 2 teeth missing, as the timing point, and that it is on the end of the camshaft so rotates at half engine speed.
Has anyone tried this before or have any advice on what the nature of the output to the tacho is, I assume it will be digital as it is supplied by the ecu.
Why am I doing it, mainly as a hobby interest but also cost. The microprocessor costs about £4 and the 4 digit display free from an old Sat. TV box. or about £2.
Why are people so obsessed with accurate idle speed? Who cares if the tacho says 1000 when its actually 750?
Unless there is something dramatically wrong with the engine like low compression or an overly rich or week mixture then who cares if its idling at 1000 or 1200 as long as its not ridiculously out of the ball park it doesnt matter.
I set up all my vehicles to idle where the engine seems happiest and most stable and ere on the high side. I can tell if its to high by the way it sounds and if it needs to be that high to be stable and reliable then there is an issue and I investigate.
So my 1198 Ducati idles at 1400 rpm because thats where its happy. I could probably set it lower but why bother?
My V11 i havent a clue, but its happy enough where its at and doesnt cause any riding issues and doesnt stall or overheat.
Kind or reminds me of old guys obsession with how low a speed an engine will pull top gear or how steep a hill it will pull up in top.
Ciao
Need help - bike leaking oil, loosing power, sluggish acceleration
in Technical Topics
Posted
I'm amazed when this happens and people don't realise. For whatever reason the engine has dropped a cylinder and the rider can't figure that out. It's a twin for goodness sake how can you keep riding it around on one cylinder.
Not good for the engine btw. When this happens you shouldn't ride the bike, for many reasons, safety being a major one.
Be interested to find out why it's running on one.
Ciao