Lucky Phil
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Posts posted by Lucky Phil
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Something people may have overlooked is that wrapping the headers also makes life hard on the mufflers as it puts a LOT more heat into them.Probably not an issue with general road riding with Ti or alloy cans but if you have carbon skin cans then I'd recommend you stay away from the wrap.
Wrapping the headers on a Ducati 996 superbike a friend used to race back in the 90's saw the carbon cans last about 10 laps before failing in spectacular fashion. Didn't just happen once and they were new cans.
All that insulated heat has to now go out the mufflers and at the very least even on a road bike it will make life a lot harder on the carbon skins and glass packing if thats what you have.
The other factor is that the Guzzi is an air cooled engine and in most cases needs all the cooling help it can get.Why would you add to the impost on its marginal ability to cool by wrapping the headers with no real benefit to performance? Add to that the fact that it will eventually look tatty and require replacement and it starts to look more like the "i'm bored and need a cheap project" thing to me,or a conversation starter at the pub.
Ciao
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As it turns out, if you cycle the ignition, or run the motor only briefly - the throttle bodies are more likely to weep, seep, tear, blink, or drip.
Thats because every time you cycle the ignition switch on with the kill switch in the run position the fuel pump runs and the ECU fires a shot of fuel into the inlet manifolds.Its a pre charge to help starting.
Ciao
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I tried to live with and then dial in the suspension of my 2000 sport after rebuilding it from boxes. But soon realized that the shaft drive combined with my less than subtle throttle control was upsetting the already drama prone geometry (This is my 1st guzzi and shaft drive bike). If I had more cash I would have bought new triple trees with less offset to increase the trail. Instead I opted for the old school solution of cutting a 2mm groove just behind the head and tig welded it back together. If my math is correct, this should result in a 27 degree rake and roughly 110mm trail. IT IS SOOO MUCH BETTER (I am used to monsters and sv650s). It might be I am finally getting old.
Seems like cracking a walnut with a sledge hammer to me.
Ciao
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Nice video but by and large not the story.I purchased a used fuel pump and plate assy complete with the connectors still in place and no hoses.Spent 30 min trying to get the connectors off and went to the internet for some clues before I broke something.
Found the solution there but i can tell you now it had zero to do with relieving fuel pressure.
I've been an aircraft engineer for 35 years as well so it wasnt an issue with mechanical skills either.
All I can say is congrats on your current situation and methodology,just dont get used to it because it wont last.
ciao
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Jeez what a sorry arsed bunch MG riders can be.That looked like a fantastic thing to go to.
Ever heard of the concept of taking out of it what you dig and ignoring the rest.
Sorry I missed it.
Ciao
Phil
Of course: that is one way of viewing and one way of engaging. It can be a good & useful approach, but it doesn't mean that other conversations can't be had. Ignoring things is sometimes ok and sometimes not the best thing.
I wish that the motorbike dealer who owes me parts wouldn't keep ignoring me or the issue. Sure, he's got the bit he digs (the sale, my money) and he's ignoring the rest. Good for him - but short sighted. That's why Piaggio Guzzi is down the tubes in many places. To me, ignoring the state of things and always slapping on more gloss emulsion isn't gonna hold the wall up.
Mostly we enjoy and enthuse. Sometimes it's worth a slight poke to see what's under the paint, don't you think?
The hard reality of modern life is that you have to put on a "show".Motorcycles are a luxury and leisure item and you have to appeal to a certain degree to the "lifestyle" and as most buyers will have a partner, them as well.
Doesn't matter how good the product this is a necessity or you will be dead in the water with the leisure/luxury market.
Once apon a time you could rely on the quality selling the product and generating a certain image,now its the other way around.
Not saying I like it this way just that's the way it is.
As for the show I would just love to be back in Mandello again an have a look in the factory.The rest would be a bonus.
I have principle when it comes to the majority of dealers......Once I leave with the bike they never see it again unless I have a major warranty issue and then I keep them on such a short leash its better for them to treat me well than mess me about.
Minor warranty stuff,servicing and tuning I will deal with myself.Generally better to keep things away from the "oil change specialists" that 90% of dealerships claim are technicians.
ciao
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Jeez what a sorry arsed bunch MG riders can be.That looked like a fantastic thing to go to.
Ever heard of the concept of taking out of it what you dig and ignoring the rest.
Sorry I missed it.
Ciao
Phil
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Sorry,yep thats right,Centauro engine.
Ciao
Excellent!
I remember reading somewhere that it would be a good idea to ventilate the cam belt covers [maybe with some fine screen covering the holes?] on the old 4v, as the engine heat otherwise trapped in them tends to bake the cam belts, and the extra airflow thru the belt housing helps keep these very hot-running heads that little bit cooler.
Best of luck!
OK thanks will check that out when the engine arrives.Will try and do a pictorial story on the process if I can.This is my starting point.I will also convert to the later tank with the internal pump and filter which I have as well for neatness reasons.Cant tolerate all that external plumbing.The object is to be able to return back to original without any difficulties if I wish.
Ciao
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Hello,
Strange problem, the oil relief valve is located in the oil sump, you will need to remove both pieces of the sump to get to it. It screws into the aluminum piece that the oil filter attaches to. The relief valve is really tight and I broke the housing on the last one I removed (it is loctited in, so maybe some heat will make it easier to remove. I think the only way to check it is to apply air to the threaded end, it should hold pressure (not bleeding off pressure).
The oil pump is located behind the timing cover and to get to it, you will need to pull the front cover and the timing chain/sprockets. I have seen wiped out oil pumps but it is usually from alot of metal going through it as the oil is not filtered going to it. Was there any metal in the pan?
The other thing it could be is excessive clearence between the crank and bearings. But if you didn't see any metal in the pan, you most likely could rule this out.
Keep us posted and good luck,
Mike
A few days ago I drove from work and noticed the oil pressure light came up at the traffic light. After reving up the light went out again. I drove home keeping the revs over 2500 rpm. This morning a instaled a new oil pressure sensor, and for a minute I thought it was solved when I took a ride. However, after some 4 km the engine got hotter and the light came on again at low (
At home I drained the oil and took off the oil sump. I assumed the oil filter or oil filter holder had come loose (I replaced the filter 300 km earlier), but all was well in place.
Anybody any suggestions of what could be the problem? Somewhere else on this forum I read about the oil pressure relief valve, which might be the cause. Any idears on how to check that? And how about the pump?
Cheers
I would change the filter again and see what happens.I know it has a bypass if its restricted but its an easy and cheap t/shooting first step.
After that i'd check the oil pressure relief valve.May have not seated correctly the last time it bypassed oil.
Ciao
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I'm guessing that it's either a Centauro or Daytona motor which will fit the spine frame.
Sorry,yep thats right,Centauro engine.
Ciao
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Just Bought an 8 valve engine to fit into the V11 sport.Will use a RAM clutch and 15m ecu (jefferies my15m)any advise and or suggestions would be welcome.
Ciao
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Hmm, this thread prompted me to take my Ducati ST4s out for a ride.
Conclusion: I like them both. The V11 is set up for sport-touring, so the V11 and Duc do the same job, but in different ways. I wouldn't say the V11 is exactly sedate, but it certainly doesn't have the raw horsepower that the Duc has. The V11 has better, or at least more usable, torque and it has an equal grin factor. Both have been trouble free as long as I've had them.
The Duc has a more red paint job and the tires leak air more slowly.
Not trying to get into a "who's got the biggest d*ck" thing here but believe me an ST4s is a nice quiet little tourer compared to an 1198s.Not bagging the ST but the 1198 (mines got a full Titanium system and Microtech ECU)is a bit of an animal and to much for a road bike really.The ST would be a much better thing to ride day to day.
I love riding the V11,cant really explain it but I do.
Ciao
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The Mistral carbon fibre slipons on my 2002 Tenni have grown annoyingly loud in the past year. I suspect that the packing has been destroyed by exhaust pulses over the years. Have any of you rebuilt your Mistrals? Any help with materials & procedures greatly appreciated.
some manufacturers sell rebuild kits with the glass material and rivets etc.Personally I have always just wrapped the center perferated tube with 1 wrap of 50mm woven glass tape without adhesive and then packed the rest with fibreglass wool from roof insulation batts.
Ciao
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Dunno what you mean by "slow". V11 is a very relaxing bike to ride - on any open road you can stick it in top, stay off the brakes & do a good pace on very little throttle. I'm not suggesting lugging it with big throttle at low revs, just steady throttle at anything above 3k, enough to keep it rolling along, bike is happy, & makes good progress. Just keep everything real smooth, & you'll want to ride it all day. For decent acceleration, nip it down a couple gears & it's good too: you get two bikes for price of one - above 6k it's reasonably brisk. I never rode the multistrada, but older Ducatis I've ridden felt revvy compared with Guzzis.
But V11's not a lugger like a Harley & not great in slow traffic.
KB
I guess I mean around 80hp and 225kg in weight slow.I love my V11 sport but even for a 52yo its a long way from what a "sports" motorcycle is considered to be today.
Its just a big lazy GT type of bike for mine....a relaxing ride,and I like that,but its not fast.In fact its light years way from fast.
Compare it to a modern "sports bike" such as my 1198s at 165kg and 170hp at the wheel or my GSXR1000 track bike and that is my yardstick for fast.
Both of the latter are to much engine for the road in reality but they are the modern yardstick for "fast".
Grab a handful of throttle in 4th gear at 80klm/hr on the 1198 and that thing just launches you at the horizon at a rate that you wouldn't believe unless you experienced it.
But like I said the V11 is an enjoyable ride and I love it because it is so sedate.
Ciao
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Hi there
Just joined... test rode a v11 many years ago & loved it. Own a Multistrada 1000 Ds which is hard work. I want a bike with character that is easier to ride slowly. tell me i'm doing the right thing ie buying a V11 Sport with flat bars.You can read about our trip round Ireland in RIDE magazine Oct 2011 page 30.
You don't have much choice other than ride a V11 slowly.....they aren't that fast.
Ciao
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With ref to aviation,I wasn't considering aluminium skin structures but other aero applications.The concept that Aluminium compresses under bolted up load and therefor fails as a general statement needed to be challenged.
Ciao
I don't see a real need to challenge my statement. Aluminium has this tricky behaviour, even the expensive alloys are not free of it. The Young-modulus and the resulting 3x bigger deformations are a fact, too. If you don't follow very special design rules or even avoid the material completely for certain applications it will give you problems. Now I don't see where the design of the steel wheel and the light alu one differs.
Using such a bodgey flywheel for racing purposes may be something different, very similar to aviation if you like. But then you should keep the same maintenance intervalls as they have them for racing - or for aeroplanes. I at least wouldn't want to open my bike every 2.500 km just to check whether things are still fine, the more as 'being fine' is not clearly defined. Will you then change it as soon as the smallest crack is visible or only after the first small parts have come free?
Hubert
It needs to be challenged the same as the statement "a bodgey flywheel" needs to be as its a sweeping generalisation.Depending on the original design and application some things can be copied straight from steel to high grade aluminium.
If we were to take your post a face value then we should all still have cylinder heads made from cast iron because the aluminium ones will compress under the load of the cylinder studs clamping them to the cases.
Also what makes you think the RAM clutch unit is purely for racing?I would suggest the vast majority sold are running around on the street.
There is also evidence to suggest the failures that have occured are with the "original fit" Guzzi units which used RAM clutch components but didnt use the RAM flywheel.
Ciao
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Stucchi cross over,Wilbers shock with remote preload adjuster,5.5" rear rim,Mistral mufflers.A work in progress.
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Dont know where you learned to spell but where I come from its ALUMINIUM as I originally posted,but feel free to check the spelling/grammar and correct if required if it makes you feel better.
Ciao
Ah Phil, you missed the joke: we 'Murricans spell & speak it funny... No matter.
As for the suitability of aluminum as the material for Guzzi flywheels, we can agree to disagree. My point was that there is marginal need to even go there, since one can machine the steel flywheels down to the point where they are close to the aluminum ones in wt., but manifestly stronger to the point that one does not need to be waiting for them to explode. And the Guzzi donk does like more flywheel mass than an inline four...
Your point that the use of aluminum in airplanes argues that they should be safe for use in flywheels is not pertinent either, simply because the use of aluminum in airplane frames/skin is a vastly different application. You don't see aluminum being used for flywheels in aircraft motors, nor do you see ground vehicles subjected to the extremely cautious & diligent maintenance schedules one must adhere to in aircraft. I'm just sayin' there's a logical discontinuity in your argument. Even if you do spell aluminum funny! ;D
Ok,copy the spelling thing.
I guess we will differ on the flywheel issue,but as I pointed out the RAM units seem to be fine unlike some of the original Guzzi single plate units which apparently DIDN'T use the RAM flywheel.
The RAM flywheel and clutch assembly weigh some 2kg less than the already lightest big twin (V11 Sport)dual plate clutch.Removing another 2kg off the V11 clutch would be rather challenging I would imagine.
With ref to aviation,I wasn't considering aluminium skin structures but other aero applications.The concept that Aluminium compresses under bolted up load and therefor fails as a general statement needed to be challenged.
Ciao
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...The concept that a well engineered aluminium alloy component will undoubtedly deform over time and lead to the fastener losing tension and then failure is just wrong.
[emphasis added]
Clearly an invalid assumption in re: the Guzzi "racing" flywheel.
BTW, you misspelled "aluminum."
The irony being that as Pete Roper has pointed out, the heavier flywheels are much more useful to a daily rider and don't put the strain on the rest of the components as the superlight alloy flywheel does...
Ride on!
I was speaking in generalities,but having said that I dont know that the genuine RAM flywheel has the issues that the std Guzzi one does.
Peter is entitled to his opinion on the merits of aluminium flywheels,but after many years of riding Ducati's of all persuasions with much less engine rotating mass I have my own views.
When I fit my RAM unit I don't expect to be able to necessarily ride the bike the same way as with the heavy unit and if that means I have to ride it a gear lower and keep the revs higher then thats fine by me.That's how I want it to feel and respond.
Dont see clutch or final drive spline wear being an issue if the bike is ridden with some sense of awareness.
Dont know where you learned to spell but where I come from its ALUMINIUM as I originally posted,but feel free to check the spelling/grammar and correct if required if it makes you feel better.
Ciao
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You see it everywhere on your engine, so far it's ok, but not for such a high stress connection as on the flywheel. The steel one is fixed with 12.9 screws, the corresponding torque and glue for security. It's the nature of aluminium to creep away under such loads. That's also the reason you don't find it very often in electrics/electronics for bus bars and other elements that have to be screwed down. The connections will come loose.
Next thing is the Young modulus. It's one third of the steel one. As the flywheels have very similar dimensions you could estimate the deformations under load to be 3x the ones of a steel wheel.
For a flywheel I think it's quite an edgy solution.
Hubert
Cant agree with this,there are literally thousands of engineering examples of alloy components under stress held together with bolted joints that last many many years.The concept that a well engineered aluminium alloy component will undoubtedly deform over time and lead to the fastener losing tension and then failure is just wrong.
The aviation industry would be in serious trouble if this was the case.
Ciao
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...Well gentlemen, I'm back...
Hey John! Somehow missed your post above - Great to see you around again
Been wondering what had happened to you.Best wishes, hope the house is working out.
KB
PS: RAM flywheel is indeed aluminium.
Received my RAM clutch kit the other week and read with interest the supposed failure of these flywheels.While it appears to have effected the original Guzzi units and not the RAM flywheels its interesting to look at the RAM flywheel.
I noticed on the inner face of the flywheel(the gearbox side) where the crank mount bolts are they have machined a mount face for the large steel washer/plate that the mount bolts go through.The outer edge of this machined face in my opinion lacks sufficient radius and this is where the failures that have occured appear to originate in the original post.
I'll be disassembling the clutch unit chucking up the RAM flywheel and opening up that radius before fitting.
Ciao
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My RAM clutch is on 6,500 miles ...still working. I can't comment on ultimate longevity. RAM clutches have been around a long time & I have not heard of this problem occurring with them. I have had one in my Tonti for years - but it doesn't really do much mileage.
I do not know why original flywheel fails - but it always seems to fail at the same point: around the edge of the centre washer & radial cracks outward. The edge of the washer is a stress raiser. RAM instructions specify side of washer to face flywheel. Incorrectly torqued bolts would be an issue. Was your clutch noisy compared with other single plates? As I said, John O'Sullivan's (wherefore art thou John?) flwheel also tore it's centre out, & was very noisy compared with mine & BFG's - I remember waiting at lights & you could hear it over the noise of both our bikes.
As you pointed out some parts of the OME clutch are RAM & stamped as such - but there are dimensional differences between the OME flywheel & the RAM flywheel. It is my understanding that the flywheel is not a RAM part. It has been said to me that the flywheel was sourced elsewhere (why?). But wether it's an assembly issue, materials or manufacture - I dunno.
Why the differences between the centre buttons? I dunno either. The issue was the length of the pushrod not the width.
For anyone interested, this is RAM contact details:
R.A.M. di Dell'Oro Adriana
Ricerca Accessori Motori
sede operativa
Via Vignazza 2
23851 Galbiate (Lc)
Tel +39 0341 241210 +39 0341 241210
Fax +39 0341 542642
Web www.rammotor.it
KB
Well gentlemen, I'm back, nice to see that flywheels are still flying!
I got a RAM replacement from Teo Lamers and it was fitted in Jaca (Northern Spain) but I've done very little with the bike since I've been building a new house which takes a little time.
The RAM flywheel is a steel construction to my knowledge and is reliable as Teo Lamers have been using them for years.
Best to you all,
John
No Ram flywheel is Aluminium.Just bought one for the V11.Sitting on my dining table.
Ciao
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Nice tank Ponti
Ciao -
V11,Stucchi cross over fitted,5.5" rear rim,chin fairing,valve covers,Rizoma mirrors.Wilbers fully adjustable shock on order.
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You just have to get them clear coated. I tried using spray can clear and it works nice...for awhile. I think Guzzi didnt want to weigh the c/f parts down with too much clear coat!
Sounds good to me.... I think I will scrape off some paint so I don't have to lose weight. Is 246 lb. Heavy?????
Get a painter to shoot some clear over it with matting agent added.Depending on weather etc the matting agent will take the gloss off the clear and give the finish you want and also UV protection as well if he uses the right stuff.
Ciao
exhaust mods
in Technical Topics
Posted
Looks like the std cans may be just a carbon skin over a SS body.
I've never seen this before.All the carbon cans I've ever worked on are a perforated tube surrounded by fibreglass packing and a carbon sleeve only.Works well but you have to be dilligent with the assembling and maintaining of the glass packing because any direct leakage internally onto the carbon skin will burn it in a short time.Some carbon skins have a type of metal flame spray on the inner surface to help with this.You will see this by brown marks and eventually it will burn through.
Ciao