Lucky Phil
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Posts posted by Lucky Phil
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Hi to all,
Is it possible to change the pinion small needle bearing easily?
Best regards
No
Ciao
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I have 2 low mileage bevel boxes and both have play in the front bearing. adjusting the ring nut didnt have any impact on the play. Have used both of them and it doesnt seem to be an issue but when I rebuild the spare if a new bearing doesnt remove the play I will attempt to shim it out with some home made shims if possible.
To check whether the play is in the small internal needle bearing or the outer needle/ball hybrid just grip the input shaft and apply a longitudinal rotational force to it to load up the inner bearing then at the same time try to move the shaft up and down vertically.
If you can still feel play at the end you are gripping then the play is in the outer bearing,if not its the inner.Both mine are in the outer bearing and from memory I calculated it at around 0.0015" radial which I can live with.
I'd rather it be less but it is what it is.
Ciao
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You are going to be a very unhappy Guzzi owner if you think a leaking fork seal is a "big problem" believe me.
Try using a seal mate before you pull the fork apart, it may have just rolled the seal during transport.
Ciao
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I bought mine fromMG cycles about 3 years ago
Ciao
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Is this the crossover without the support bracket? If so i'd steer away.
Ciao
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Hey guys all good info thanks. I'm still rebuilding the heads for my engine but work and family commitments are making the progress slow.
Ciao
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I believe that although the TPS's differ physically they give the same voltages per rotational degrees so it's just a connector issue.
I have a MY15m ecu for my conversion and I spoke to Cliff a few years ago about the maps and at that time he didn't have a map specifically for the V10 but said customers had used the base V11 map as a starting point and it was quite close to the mark.
Ciao
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Hey Gritman well done. Please keep us updated on the tuning process.
Ciao
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Interesting thread and ill pass on a related tip. My ST2 had very vauge steering and after I had done a few thousand KLMs on it ( it was bought this way from a friend)it developed an annoying habit of variable front brake lever freeplay.
Thinking I had a master cylinder on the way out i was prepairing to replace that and decided on a new front tyre to correct the vauge steering.
When I pulled the front wheel the wheel bearings were toast. Not bad enough to be scary but enough to give about a millimeter of play at the rim. This was causing the brake pads to be pushed back into the calipers under diffewrent conditions( so when you pulled up in a straight line at the lights the pads supported the bearings and you had decent lever when you tried them when stopped. Go around a corner and then brake and the lever had freeplay again after the disks had pushed the pads back due to the wheel movement) it was also the reason for the steering issues.
Just something to bear in mind for the future. New wheel bearings fixed both issues completely.
Ciao
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This x-over type i have never seen. But it sure looks like a piece of (s)crap.
Do you know manufacturer? Agostinis website shows a piece similar to yours, but with a mount plate fitted: http://www.torquepowermotorcycles.com.au/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=75&product_id=111
Stucchi x-over that I have (below) is basically 2 tubes. It also has a mountplate:
Yes mines the Stucchi with the support, no issues with mine. I personally wouldnt use the non support type.
Ciao
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You need to get off the bike more and get some value out of those knee scrapers and save the side stand. Get your toes on the pegs and tuck your feet in to keep your boots off the deck.
Try some road race boots as well, those big clod hoppers wont offer you much feel through the pegs.
Ciao
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Just to add bit more information that may help to understand our plan to race a MG in next years Manx. First We're not total newbes in the racing world. I raced and build race cars for forty years and now am retired and building Cafe Racers for fun and profit. The rider in this years Manx has 18 years on the island with over 50 TT and Manx starts. We sat down one night and added it up and best we can guess he has about 1000 laps on the course.
As Phil sugjested we showed up with a full pop, "pop" being the pivital word GSXR and promply blew a fist sized hole in the engine. We did finish the race on an engine we picked up off e-bay that was for the most part stock.
So the reasoning on the MG idea. No one is really racing one on the Island. Next year we plan to field two bikes one in the senior and one in the 600 class. Doing well on this course is all about track time and track time is hard to get. We wanted to pick a third bike to run in the classic races and we we're hearing things like the engine torque will make the thing unridable (?????) so we started looking at what would confront us if we rode a MG. After this years races we stayed on the IOM to load up and had time lap the course many times. We think that the MG may very well be in it's sweet spot with all the long curving straights. I must also add that being a bit of an odd ball it will get us some extra ink just because no one else is really racing one.
I want to thank you all for your imput and please keep it up. This is something we have decided to undertake and are still working out what model Guzzi to pick that will fit the rules to the best of our advantage.
Rich
Well Rich its nice to hear your rider has a lot of experience at the Island because that counts for a lot.
Slow steering old buses like 70's and 80's Guzzies may seem like a great thing for the Island but if you get it wrong at some point then its hard to get them back on line. The lazy steering can get you into trouble.
Ciao
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Let's get this in perspective. The OP is looking at running the Manx GP- not the TT. He's not looking for a spine frame, 4 valver or MGS-01. This is the vintage racing for bikes manufactured prior to 1987.
Certainly a 1000 LeMans would be a formidable ride and should be competitive with any Euro or Japanese bike from the era.
What, up against TT2 and F1 Ducatis? dream on my friend.
Ciao
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Phil,
Remind us newbies what's your experience at the Isle of Man?
My brother was there this year for the Classic and had a great time. So we're trying to work out how we can both go next year.
I was at the TT twice in the eighties as a mechanic and pit crew.
Ciao
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There's a reason there isnt many guzzi's at the TT, have a guess.
I'll give you a few clues to get you started.......... fat,slow,shaft drive, handle like pigs.
That should get you on the right track.
Ciao
Probably why they got they're butt kicked at Daytona in the BOTT.Oh wait ,they won. This is what you want http://www.odd-bike.com/2013/03/moto-guzzi-mgs-01-cooking-goose.html but a built up Daytona would be within reach and quite competent in a Classic race.
I like the way Americans and others for that matter think that BOTT has some sort of ranking in the greater world of international racing.
Its an amateur racing series and interesting for that but its many many levels below professional racing and thats what I judge a machine from.
Is it competative at the TOP professional level in its day, or not.
Its like Dr Johns Guzzi's, loved the storiy and the man for his passion and engineering and what he achieved with what he had ( everybody loves an under dog) but really it was winning what?, some US endurance series. Not exactly the hight water mark in international racing.
So the people are amazing as is their effort but at the end of the day their race bikes really havent cut it with the big boys.
Ciao
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Well the IOM taught me that you need a bullit proof reliable bike with forgiving handling that the rider wont be fighting the whole way around because it will wear him out and then he will make errors that may kill him.
Oh and an engine that you think is reliable at club or even national short circuit level may well not be at the island.
Wide open down Sulby Straight for miles skipping off the bumps destroys engines and transmissions.
Not really the place to indulge your abandonment of reason.
Just my opinion mind.
Ciao
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There's a reason there isnt many guzzi's at the TT, have a guess.
I'll give you a few clues to get you started.......... fat,slow,shaft drive, handle like pigs.
That should get you on the right track.
Ciao
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Phil, you may also wish to check clearance between the TPS and the fuel pressure regulator. I had to get 5mm milled off the threaded portion of the regulator to get sufficient room to clear the TPS and fit the fuel return hose.... Pics of your work would be nice... are you leaving the motor stock? I've fitted a Roper plate, and the oil pump upgrade comes well recommended. I'm also fortunate to have another V10 motor which I may tweak a bit for track use when I run out of things to do.
I'm still working on the engine rebuild which is pretty much covered up to the cylinder heads with the exception of having the crank lightened and balanced.
I'm going to run the RAM clutch assy as well but leave it stock except for the usual blue print job. I've also got the steel joe caruso cam and oil pump drive gears with the German oil pump upgrade.
Parts are getting scarce these days and I've had to have the cylinders re nikasiled myself and new pistons. I'll get the cams and lifters gas nitrided and I have new valves to fit and k-line the guides which are seriously worn. can you believe one of the guides in one of my heads had 0.030" clearance!!!!! plus I need to replace a couple of exhaust seats as well so its a bit of a process. I'm also looking at some extra oil feed to the cam lobes to help with the wear these engines suffer from and converting the lifters over to the system the Later Grisso engines use to actuate the rocker.
I'm not looking for horsepower just a sweet and reliable engine. A V11 isnt a sports bike by modern standards, so for me its just my fun road bike.
Thanks for the tip in the fuel reg,I have 4 new fuel tanks here and the plan was to install one of the later in tank pump versions as I think they have cleaner and simpler plumbing so the reg shouldnt be an issue but plans may change.
I think Ill paint it silver with the std red frame etc. The engine will be installed in the Green V11 you see in my avatar. I can post some pics of the engine if you like when I take some photos of it. I need to document the build anyway so I'll get them done.
Ciao
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Thanks Gritman, simple yet effective solution.
I'm still rebuilding my V10 engine for the swap, so this is all great info and time saving for me.
Ciao
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Hey gritman I'd be interested to see a photo of your fuel tank mount solution. It needs to be raised about 30mm correct?
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I would suspect part 30 in the bevel box diagram has been omitted at the last wheel out event.
Ciao
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Trying to ride around with the left cylinder dead and possibly still being fed with fuel will cause the r/h cylinder to be working harder and possibly overheating.
could also be pumping extra oil into the breather and airbox which will be feeding the dead cylinder with extra oil and fuel.
My view is, find the reason the dead cylinder is dead fix that, clean the bike up make sure it has oil, clean out the airbox, get it running, make sure you have oil pressure and no unusual mechanical noise and then look for the leak.
I have a feeling when you get it running on both cylinders as long as there is no damage then the oil leak might not be an issue.
Ciao
Preemptive Shift Return Spring and Pawl Arm Replacement
in Technical Topics
Posted
Because the washer is thing the dome nut will have crushed it a little and it will have deformed into the threads. You'll need to grab the OD with some pliers and screw it off.
Ciao