Lucky Phil
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Posts posted by Lucky Phil
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Looks like the venu is the Nurburg Ring.
Ciao
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EM is a smart guy.
This statement and owning 10 MG's somehow seem at odds to me
Ciao
I am always at odds to that statement and I have only 4 Guzzi's ..... 4 Ducati's, a Cagiva, a Laverda 750 SFC, a BMW R90 (in parts), a BSA Sloper (in parts), 2 Puchs, a Honda mini-bike and a KZ 750B twin vintage racer project.
I am at odds with a lot of things ......
Jim I thought I had a sickness:)
Are any of these residing in your lounge room? like 2 of mine.
Just thought I'd up the anti a little in the " no hope for" stakes.
Ciao
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I may be missing something here but from the description this isnt a dry sump setup. I would imagine the aluminium box to which you refer is a breather box.If there is oil on the end of a dipstick in the engine sump its still the standard wet set up.
Draining the oil cooler is counter productive and just introduces air into the system on oil changes.
The small amount left in the cooler is of no consequence and would be less than the total leftover oil that hides in the engine and doesnt drain during a normal oil change.
Ciao
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EM is a smart guy.
This statement and owning 10 MG's somehow seem at odds to me
Ciao
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Hey Jim whos that riding the Magni in the Hailwood leathers?
Ciao
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Hmmmmm ....... I suppose I could point out to you the fact that an MGS-01 did rather well beating much more recent models of Ducati at Daytona and in Italy and probably many other places ...... but that's not what I meant. I was talking about looks .... and I like the looks of an 888. But I like the looks of the Magni Guzzi even more.
In the hands of a talented rider such a Mr. Guareschi even a lowly V7 can make more powerful bikes look lame if you are referring to racing and not looks!
Sent from my electronic device!
Ok Jim, your talking about looks,thats purely subjective, but for what its worth I think an 888 SP4 looks way better.
As for racing success, well I dont consider Daytona and the other "amature" ( respectfully) race series around the world as any real indication of the ultimate worth of a sportsbike design. To many variable inc the ability of the people that prep and engineer the bike and the biggest one as you pointed out The Rider.
The Britten is a good example...I love it as a creation and engineering piece, it appeals to my engineers brain but in truth it never won anything of any real note and had a few major design flaws/limitations.
The only true way to judge the ultimate value of a design from a performance perspective is in the white heat of battle at the very top echalons of racing.
My current yardstick for ultimate potential as a pure sportsbike bike design is WSB and for the ultimate sportsbike design as a road bike its world Superstock.
Anything that can win in WSS 600 or 1000 is going to be a seriously good sportsbike for the road.
Ciao
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I saw that one too! What a nice bike ... makes an 888 Ducati look lame!
Dont know if you're living in a parrallel universe Jim but a Ducati SP2/3/4 would chew one of these up and spit it out.
Even a std 888 would probably be better.
There are a few reasons a Guzzi has never won a WSB race let alone a Championship and one is because they are an archaic design as a sports bike from which to build the platform for a racer.
Even as a road sports bike that fundamental design shortcoming is plainly obvious to anyone that owns a guzzi and a modern sports bike.
From memory the Marni bikes did very little to correct this, mainly because the primary limitation is the engine transmission architexture
Ciao
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HI to all
Anyone with experience with this:
http://www.gg2.it/Inglese/guzzi_cyl_air%20cooled.htm
Best regards!
No but cast iron sleeved cylinders are a backward step from the std Nikasil.
Ciao
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Yep, I've done the same. Fits.
Thanks Jaap,nice to know I wont have to buy new pipes.
Ciao
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Hey Gritman are those the standard 2 valve headers and exhaust on the 4 valve engine?
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As others have said the proper tool is best but I've heard that using a Rawl bolt to grip the inner race and then hitting it from the other side also works and is cheaper !!
Using a grinding head,cut through the inner ring it'll fall apart relatively easyThanks guys,
I'll look into getting a puller. Stearing head bearings need to be replaced as well so it would be a good investment.
I am curious to know how you used a dremel to get the bearings out. I've already got dremels, die grinders etc.
I use a wooden dowel the size of the bearing to drive it in,
about a half dollar invested for both
You know thats not a bad idea
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Thanks Gritman
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Hey Gritman can you tell me what paint is used on the cases and gearbox and what the colour is?
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Paul Lewis was a seriously good rider but at the same time although I love the Britten and have enormous respect for the man that conceived it the truth is it was grossly overrated as a race bike.
It lacked development and had a major design flaw in that it was WAY to tall to ever handle any good. It doesnt wheelie everywhere because of the power it because the C of G is so high.
I think from memory the last time I say it race at Phillip Island about 15 years ago it was turning 1.42 second laps.About as fast as a good 600 super sport bike at the time.
Interesting video though.
Ciao
what a load a cods wallop man, why you believe such crap I dont know...
heres a little info reguarding that race, the Britten was and is a farking fast machine that handled briliantly
"Read the book... it's not what it looks like. Stroud had been asked to make it look good so backed right off out of sight of the stands. Louie apparently had no idea what was going on....
Tim Hanna quotes Stroud as saying Cathcart was trying to promote the class and asked if he'd make a race of it.
Stroud agreed. Page 421 for your ref"
Spoken like a true Kiwi,eh
Ciao
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I've been searching for some way to upgrade the suspension on my RM.
I was about to purchase Hyper Pro shock and front springs from Austraila because they where the only option that was within my budget and available within the New Zealand and Australia. I spoke to a mate who suggested I try the local Ohlins agent. I thought they would be to expensive. It turns out they are not.
Their response was
REAR ( Sachs ) SHOCK The actual bones of these shocks isn’t too bad, many of the internal parts are a close copy of Ohlins but the settings and spring rate selection are not so flash. And given your roads in the Christchurch area ( was there over the weekend ) I can understand where you are coming from. What we do in an instance like this is to change the spring for a more suitable rate and happily Ohlins springs fit straight on Sachs. We then pull the shock apart and instal an Ohlins piston and valving into it. Ohlins make a shock for the V11 as oem supply to Moto Guzzi, given that the body tube internal diameter is the same from Ohlins to Sachs we can replicate an Ohlins type feel and compliance into that shock. The whole job if you send us the shock amounts to around $650. Were an Ohlins available for it as aftermarket supply it would be around $2000.
FRONT FORKS I was hoping you were going to say Showa or Sachs as opposed to Marzocchi. These will likely have progressively wound springs that are too light in start rate but then way too aggressive in end rate. So changing the springs alone in a linear wind rate appropriate to you with careful selection of oil viscosity, airgap and spring preload will yield a decent bang for buck result. About $450 to $500. BUT, in an ideal world the cartridges would be pulled apart and the pistons assessed as to whether they can be revalved or absolutely have to be replaced to attain the flow rates required. What concerns me is the very distinct possibility that these are swaged together sealed for life cartridges. Research info is pretty sketchy for many of these Italian bikes, if you have ready access to an exploded parts diagram for the front forks that you could e-mail to me I can then furnish a better answer.
What do you all think of his ideas?
I have a full spec Wilbers shock ( high and low speed compression adj and rebound with remote preload adjuster) fitted to my V11 bought here in Aus for if I recall about $1300. I have Ohlins fitted to my other Ducati's (1198, ST2, 1000ss) and the Wilbers is a least as good in quality. It was a bespoke unit made for my weight and riding. Well worth the money.
Ciao
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This was posted on another Guzzi site a few weeks ago. Paul Lewis was a seriously good rider but at the same time although I love the Britten and have enormous respect for the man that conceived it the truth is it was grossly overrated as a race bike.
It lacked development and had a major design flaw in that it was WAY to tall to ever handle any good. It doesnt wheelie everywhere because of the power it because the C of G is so high.
I think from memory the last time I say it race at Phillip Island about 15 years ago it was turning 1.42 second laps.About as fast as a good 600 super sport bike at the time.
Interesting video though.
Ciao
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Update:
New regulator was added last week, and I did some more testing. Voltage at sone of the relays reads .4V less than the battery (13.4V at the fuel pump and side stand relays vs. 13.8V at the battery).
AC output of the alternator tested higher than what my manual says. 48 at 3k rpm and 96 van at 6k rpm. Manual says 40 (at 3k) and 80 (at 6k).
I dropped the pan, cleaned everything and replaced the oil. A fair amount of mayo in the oil pan and the cylinder head cover, and the oil dipstick temp never gets over 80 celsius. I did make sure all of the external oil lines were clear, and they were.
The other thing I noticed. Bike ran great on the freeway. Taking the side roads back home is when the bike gets really hot, especially at speeds below 40mph, so I'm now thinking the problem may not be voltage related, but speed related. When I get back on the freeway, the bike does cool down.
Seems strange that the heads get really hot, but the oil temp doesn't get warmer than 80C.
You are reading "bulk" oil temp. It has little relation to local oil temp at specific engine locations such as the cylinder heads around the exhaust port area or big end pin. So bulk oil temp may be low (and 80 deg C is to low which is why you have Mayo present) but spot temp at specific locations may be high. Bulk oil temp should regularly go above 100deg C to evaporate off the water that accumulates as a byproduct of combustion especially when the engine is in the warm up cycle. People that worry about bulk oil temps of 100 to 110 dec c on occasion are worrying about nothing esp if using a group 4 synthetic oil.
You need to quantify the "overheating". I suggest a cylinder head temp gauge with the sensor under the spark plug and get some data.
Ciao
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Well, I spliced in a new connector and everything seems right. System voltage is now 13.5 at 3000RPM and very stable above that. I would really like to know what caused that connector to smoke...any ideas?
Yep.....those blade connectors arn't the best solution for that application. Bullet type are superior.
Ciao
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How do you figure the fueling is leaner in cold temps? My Sport drops fuel economy in cold temps about 10%. Seems like denser air would support more fuel?
Because he's thinking of it like a carbed engine. Lower OAT = leaner mixture. hasn't figured the temp and pressure compensation trim tables into the equation.
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Minimal header glowing and engine pinging-at least in the 60f temps yesterday. Today it was 40f, and I had a bit more pinging, but I'm guessing it's because the fuel ratio is leaner in colder weather.
Ken
The fuel ratio should be "fairly" stable no matter what the temp, that's why the ecu has an engine temp probe. If anything it should be less likely to ping in cold conditions.
Ciao
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Just checked fuel pressure. 42psi when ignition is turned on, and went up to 45psi when the bike was started. Is this within spec?
Just received the manual petcock from MG Cycle and a new filter. I'll change them out this weekend when it warms up a bit.
I did not see any kinked fuel lines either.
Ken
Fuel pressure is good.Check it again after some running.Pumps sometimes give trouble when hot.
Have you checked the tank vent?
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Does anybody have a diagram for fuel line routing? I'd like to make sure mine is correct.
As of now, here's how the fuel line is routed: From the petcock to the fuel filter then fuel pump, then fuel pump to the LH injector, then output of LH injector to the RH injector, the output of RH injector going to the fuel regulator. Sound correct?
Ken
After the filter it doesnt matter which way the fuel flows through the injector loop.
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First off, hope everyones doing well, I haven't been around for quite a while. Just wondering if anyone else gets a power surge through the driveshaft, usually when on the power hard. It seems like the engine revs up quicker than the driveshaft can respond to the power. I know that there is a bit of power lash on driveshafts, but sometimes it is quite noticeable. I only notice this on my nero corsa, but not really an issue on the old sport.?
Its called clutch slip.Will be worse when accelerating hard in the upper gears,4th,5th.
Ciao
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Thanks Roy! I'll test the old thermistor when I have the new one ready to replace-no sense taking the tank off twice in case the old one is bad. I did replace the engine temp sensor last week, and the bike still runs rough when it heats up. I also plan on sending the injectors out for cleaning since I now remember that the PO had the bike sitting for about a year, and my first tank full of gas gave me about 26mpg. After a 2nd tankful of gas and some sea foam, the mpg went up to about 33mpg, and has consistently stayed there. I have run FI cleaner in every tankful since.
In case the injectors are shot and can't be cleaned to be useable, is there a part number or replacement injector that works for this bike? I can't seem to find any info on this site.
Ken
p.s. I don't remember if the ECU timing was advanced or retarded. I just know it was altered slightly from Guzzitech to help reduce pinging.
So everybodys going for the complex stuff first. After 10 miles the ecu should have moved off the enrichening map and then the problem starts. First place to start is the fuel filter,then ensure fuel pressure is OK.
Ciao
Fuel filter was changed when I picked up the bike. Shouldn't the enrichening map be bypassed with the PC3 installed? Maybe the fuel or air vent lines are crossed? I'll have to check fuel pressure as well. Thanks for the info!
Ken
Enrichening map wont be bypassed with the PC3. Stick to the basic stuff. If you are 100% sure on the fuel filter then fine but with any FI engine that suddenly starts to exhibit issues the FIRST thing to check is fuel pressure. Its as basic as going for the plugs and leads first when you have ignition problems.most likley to cause low fuel px in order are Filter,pump,regulator.
Check the fuel pump inlet as well for a kinked hose.Not a big fan of that solinoid fuel tap either.
Might be worth looking at the crank sensor as well.
Ciao
Fuel tank chin pad delete
in Technical Topics
Posted
I have several spare tanks and have tried the non chin pad on my 2000 green V11 which has the chin pad version as standard.
I intend to fit the later tank when I get a chance as I think the external pump version has very messy feed hose arrangement.
Any way the later tank will fit you just need to elongate the rear mount point to allow the slip nut to line up with the later tank.
There isnt much in it, I measured the mount point dimensions of both types and there was a 3 mm difference. I believe the later one was longer from memory but it could also be just a natural variation in the manufacture of the tanks.
Ciao