Lucky Phil
-
Posts
4,556 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
235
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Community Map
Posts posted by Lucky Phil
-
-
That's a nice project. Just as an aside, the V11 Sport rear sub-frame, seat and tank (with appropriate positional modifications) would probably have bolted right onto the Centauro frame.
It would but you wouldnt have the 6 speed box.
Ciao
-
Great minds think alike Phil
This has been a long time coming, and I can't wait for spring.... Thanks for the heads up on raising the tank - an alloy block between the 'buttons' will do the job for me. You may find the Centauro A frame superfluous - it doesn't have the 10mm offset of the V11 that allows the wider 6-speed 'box to fit - I sourced one too, just in case, and have now filed it with the heap of unused odd parts. I removed the reg/rect brackets from the V11 A frame and will mount it behind the headlight as per Centauro; it is all getting a bit busy down there. Dry assembly hasn't thrown up any real head scratchers so its all disassembled again for plating n painting. Are you using a My16M or a My 15M? I'm sticking with the 15M and will try it with a PCIII before I lash out on one of Cliff Jeffries desirable boxes. TBH, when I was riding the V11, the fuelling seemed pretty spot-on. The 16M on my Centauro hasn't impressed, despite strict TB balancing, so I wouldn't want to use it on this build even with a PCIII. Good luck with the engine build!
Ok Gritman thanks for the info on the "A" frame.forgot about the offset but it cost me little so I guess its back on ebay and I'll mod the original regulator bracket as well.
I'll be using the 15m as i have already bought one off Cliff. I have all the parts for a rebuild to the cylinder heads. Ram clutch freshly replated cylinders,new pistons,Joe Caruso oil pump and cam drive gears and German oil pump.The heads are really where all the expense is and I'm trying to convert the lifters and rocker to the later type with mini pushrods. Its taking a while. Yours will probably be done before mine so keep the info coming.
Ciao
-
and winter has arrived again! Time to take to the shed and execute the plan.
Strip down a perfectly serviceable V11 Sport and remove the engine. Place new engine conveniently for swap.
Remove the 6-speed 'box from the old pushrod lump and bolt it to the back of the V10 motor. Does it look like it will fit?
Fantastic. Some reworking of the reg/rect location on the fromt A frame - the old mount points foul the cambelt cover. Apart from that it all looks good on the first dry assembly.
So, just attach a few ancillaries to check there are no issues, then strip off all the bits for coatings/platings and order the My15m.
Meanwhile, the engine, throttle bodies, alternator and a clutch are up for sale to fund the next stages. See the Classifieds section of the forum if toy are interested. also lots of Centauro parts available!
This is exactly the same project I'm doing now. I haven't started the swap yet as I'm in the middle of rebuilding the engine. I managed to buy a V10 front subframe just in case there was a clearance issue and I also have a Myecu waiting to go on. Cliff Jefferies reccons the std V11 map is a good place to start with the V10 motor.
The only other real task I can see is you have to raise the front tank mount about 30mm which means some sort of adapter or mod to the frame mount. I dont want this new mount to be a permanent mod as I would still like the option of returning the bike to std if I so desire.
I am also going to fit the later internal pump tank as well. Keep the posts and photos coming.
Ciao
-
1
-
-
I thought suede seats and that kind of thing were either illegal or at the very least frowned upon in Ireland. Place must be getting much more liberal and fair play to Fergal for being brave enough to show it in public.
Tyres nicely scorched BFG have you been playing on the track?
Torched tyre! playing on the track?......my tyres look worse than that after the post delivery ride home from the dealer.
Ciao
And here I was about to comment on a nicely used tire and a Willie War breaks out,...
Oh the shame ,the shame,.....
Well if you have a little willie I guess it is a shame.
As for nicely used.....it still has chicken strips.
Ciao
-
I thought suede seats and that kind of thing were either illegal or at the very least frowned upon in Ireland. Place must be getting much more liberal and fair play to Fergal for being brave enough to show it in public.
Tyres nicely scorched BFG have you been playing on the track?
Torched tyre! playing on the track?......my tyres look worse than that after the post delivery ride home from the dealer.
Ciao
-
...the timing figures are still available in the new manuals, and... those figures are still the same.
Well, yes,they would be, since a slight improvement to the rod ratio isn't going to affect the valve or ignition timing; this isn't a 2smoke, after all!
Well if you want to be really picky about it then Rod ratio will have a slight effect on what the ignition timing profile is. Rod ratio has an impact on the pistons "dwell time" at TDC and therefore the ignition curve required.
Ciao
-
About oil temperature: I'd become nervous at 100°C.
Really.....I'd be concerned if the bulk oil temp was regularly "below" 100deg C. It needs to be around 100C to burn off water vapor,unburned fuel etc and keep oil dilution at a minimum.
As for the glowing headers as you describe...I wouldn't worry about it.Thin walled headers,dark night etc etc.My 1198s rear header also glow bright red at times even in the shed under lights.
Ciao
-
Respect to all of you.
I have been riding and buying bikes since I was 13. Triumphs, Suzukis, Honda, etc. Never owned a Guzzi. My wife and I live in Monterey, California within a mile of the Pacific Ocean. Great place to live and ride. We moved two years ago to a condo overlooking the ocean. My problem? No garage. I thought that if I could keep my '08 Triumph Bonneville and '01 Honda Valkyrie clean and covered in our carport (has a roof but no walls) I would be okay with rust and corrosion. Sadly, within six months the Triumph was showing rust on spokes and fasteners and got nothing but worse. I sold the Triumph last year. Now the Valkyrie is getting hammered. The chrome is flaking off the aftermarket exhaust, etc. I can't stand to see that great bike go to hell, so am selling the Valkyrie now. Hopefully to someone with a garage. There are two bikes that I have been interested in for a long time. My first choice would be a V11, but a close second would be a BMW 1100 Boxer Cup replica. But I would rather go without a bike than watch another one rust like an old wheel barrow. Have any of you been in a similar situation? Yes, moving to a place with a garage would be great but I'd have to divorce my wife of 25 years. There is a guy who lives in the building next to ours and he has had a BMW 1150R since before we moved in and his bike has only a half cover and looks nearly new. Do you think a V11 would hold up with reasonable care?
Great to live close to the ocean but the reality is its hard on everything, bikes,cars,homes,and electronic equipment. The more the breeze blows off the water the worse it is. If you get regular sea mists then forget trying to keep anything long term especially electronic stuff.
AS for the Guzzi it will suffer more than most bikes. The finish isn't that durable on them to start with but living near the sea will kill one unless you can hermetically seal the thing between rides.
Ciao
-
Replacing my brake pads myself for the first time, so please forgive the newb questions. I'm replacing the pads of my rear Brembos of my Nero Corsa.
(I had a lot of fun getting the old pads off: http://splicer.com/2012/07/09/pin-brembo )
First thing: the old pads came off and are worn quite unevenly. The right pad was worn pretty much down to nothing. The left pad has 2mm of material left on it. Is that a symptom I should be concerned about? Maybe in combination with the next thing I'm going to mention?
Second thing: I'm having a dickens of a time getting in to add the new pads. I've seen the suggestion to get in with a screwdriver (perhaps wrapped in a rag or paper towel) and push the caliper back to make the space to slide in the new pads. Well, I don't know how to get enough space to get the screwdriver in. I tried an (expired) credit card, and it is too thick to jam in between the caliper and the rotor. I thought maybe if I could get two playing cards in I could then slide the credit card between them, then maybe slide the screwdriver between one of the playing cards and the credit card. No dice. With great effort and sliding back and forth I am able to get one playing card in between the caliper and the rotor. I cannot get the second playing card in at all.
The left side seems much more open. I still haven't gotten the pad in, but I don't have any trouble getting at least the credit card in between.
My thought is that if the caliper is that firmly jammed up against the rotor it accounts for the uneven wear.
So: any thoughts about what I could do differently?
Just pull the caliper off the mount and with the old pads in place use a big screwdriver between the pads to lever the pistons all the way back into the caliper. Just make sure the oil reservoir isn't totally full or the pistons wont go all the way back in.You may have to remove a little oil from the reservoir.
Fit the new pads and refit the caliper and pump the brakes. Shouldn't take more than about 15 min.
I wouldn't be to concerned about the uneven pad wear unless the side with the remaining material wont go back into the caliper and is seized.
While you have the caliper off it would be a good time to replace the fluid as well.Just crack off the bleeder and nip it up again BEFORE you loosen the caliper fit the new pads put something about 6 mm thick between the pads and hold the bleeder with a tube on it upright and bleed until fresh fluid comes out.
The real question is why you need to replace the rear pads in the first place. Mine never wear out as I only use the rear brake to hold the bike on a hill at the stop lights and sometimes to help it hold a line mid corner. Have never changed out a set of worn rear pads in 40 years of riding.
Ciao
-
You do realize that green is the slowest color?
Not with me on it.
Ciao
ducks....
-
I'll keep a watch for you Fotoguzzi! Nice cabin btw..
Hey Lucky Phil, any clue where I can get some green touch-up paint? I have a little scratch on the very back of the rear seat cowel.
I bought some on ebay about a year ago.Undercoat,colour and clear kit from www.bikecolours.com. About as gods a match as you could realistically expect this sort of thing to be.
Ciao
-
Wont read all that cos Ill proberly agree, or easier put a big thumping twin will mash that fancy syn shit to a pulp, I never said anything cos the topics been done to death many a time...
Just be aware that using full synthetic comes with certain risks-.... they reconmend the full syn for run in then back to the semi. Im suprised so many use a full syn in our old plodders...
I as said run a semi syn... altho at times I think the old dyno goo would be the best way to go.
So hows your Guzzi run on Carburettors,points ignition,spoke wheels,cross ply tyres,and 85 octane fuel? well?
I'm with you,all that new tech stuff,cant trust it.
Ciao
-
Mobil 1 0w-40.
Ciao
-
Can you just pull this seal with a pick,and install by pushing in ,or do I need a special tool?
Carefully place a decent screwdriver (say 8mm wide blade at the tip)under the lip of the seal so you can get behind it a little and lever on the end of the crank CAREFULLY.If you do it correctly you wont damage anything except the old seal.
I generally machine up a driver to seat the seal but you can do it with a say 10mm dia flat punch.Just dont drive the seal in to far or you will need to remove it and start again and that will damage it for sure.
Ciao
-
Try these,look great,sound great ( a lot better than Mistral megaphones)and cost effective.
Ciao
I'm almost ready to buy those..from MGcycle.
These are "Agostinis" from Funnily enough Agostinis in Italy.They sound better than the Mistrals I had on it (like a bevel ducati but softer,without the edgy crack)
Ciao
-
I have no experience with Wilbers but plenty of experience with various aftermarket suspension bits.
Typically for street use most people are going to be just fine with a single compression adjustment and a single rebound adjustment. High and low speed compression adjustment is typically tuning to a higher level then you could use on the street as the variety of pavement is too great. The advantages of high and low speed adjustment come in to play when you are riding the same bit of pavement over and over (aka, Racing) and you can tailor the dampening to suit that particular bit of pavement more precisely. But if you are riding on a wide variety of pavement on the street being able to fine tune the compression dampening that precisely is likely not of much use.
That said, I am sure some street riders will swear they need that sort of precision adjustability.
I disagree,high and low speed comp allow you to not only adjust for the type of roads you typically ride on but also for pillion and carrying extra loads when touring.Why would you want some suspension guy from Europe guessing what damping I need on an Aussie road.I seriously doubt the Wilbers guy knows how bad our roads are.So its nice to be able to "fine tune" a little.
Ciao
-
Try these,look great,sound great ( a lot better than Mistral megaphones)and cost effective.
Ciao
-
G'day, I'm wondering if anyone has fitted a wilburs 640 rear shock into a v11 and if so, have you been wishing ever since that you spent the extra $ on a 641 with dual compression dampening adjustment? I suspect I'll be spending the extra $ on a 641, but I'd love to hear that the 640 is so good I can spend the extra $ on the forks instead.
I've just spent 2 wonderfull days exploring the limitations of the standard suspension on my 03 lemans. Lots of fantastic memories of twisty roads with stunning scenery, but a few moments I'd rather forget where I'd have been better off on the KTM 990 I was chasing. Australian "roads".... what more can I say. Perhaps a picture might help?
I have the 641 fitted to my V11 Sport.Adjustable comp (high and low)rebound and ride height as well.Really nice shock,just as nice as the Ohlins fitted to my 1198s.
Ciao
-
and the winner is...
Fail....
Ciao
-
I'm pleased to report we were able to sort out Steve's immaculate LeMans, what a beauty
She ticks over like a Swiss watch.
Thats great Roy but no point posting this without details so we can learn something.
Ciao
-
Good color that green.
Ciao
-
thanks guys... but I cant seem to be able to navagate the site well... I find no pans?
You dont need to navigate anything,I supplied the direct link.
Ciao
-
Don't understand why the clutch would rattle if it is engaged. I can imagine it could be noisy when disengaged (clutch lever pulled) as the plates could flop around on their splines but when engaged the springs should hold everything tight - so why would it rattle.
The drive plates and flywheel/pressure plate are all held together as one unit when the clutch is engeged but the drive plates can still rattle on the gearbox input drive adaptor splines.This is where I believe the noise comes from.I think flicking the clutch causes the drive plates to misalign slightly with each other on the drive splines and take out the slop.Letting out the clutch slowly allows the drive plates to both align on the same side of the splines and creates a little play and it rattles.
Ciao
-
Changing my bars back to clip-ons, I needed to disassemble the twist grip to re-route the cable and when I went in to pull the cable out of the grip "scroll, circle, thingie" I noticed a second set of holes the cable end could sit in.
These are further out toward the edge of the white plastic circle the cable end anchors in.
I put the cable end in there and damn if it doesn't have faster action!
Well, of course it would being out further but is it designed that way to give you a choice?
I think it is the cost-reduction. Parts same as on aprilias and etc (those with two wires on gas command)
Also, later models of V11 has two wires instead of one.
If it was twin cable throttle assy then the other cable position would be on the opposite side.
Ciao
V11 Sport Overheating
in Technical Topics
Posted
So everybodys going for the complex stuff first. After 10 miles the ecu should have moved off the enrichening map and then the problem starts. First place to start is the fuel filter,then ensure fuel pressure is OK.
Ciao